Ford - Escape :: 2001 - Exhaust Manifold Heats And Glows Red
Jun 23, 2015
So here's the synopsis: My girlfriend's 2001 Ford Escape V6 4x4 with 196,000 miles had the check engine light come on two weeks ago. The code read : running lean and misfire in 4/6. Changed all plugs and coils, engine light was still on, still running lean and there's a vacuum leak. Changed all intake gaskets, light went out. NOW it's sputtering and the exhaust manifold turns cherry red (clogged cat). Changed the front cat & Y pipe, remove back cat. Also replaced muffler and resonator. Car STILL sputters and idles around 200 rpm. Now it stalls when turning around or coming to a full stop, and exhaust manifold still heats up enough to turn cherry red. Why this is happening?
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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So I needed to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts and I didn't get the project finished in time. I have school today and have to drive my truck there and it is maybe 2 miles at the most from my house. Is it ok to drive that far with them open? I will finish putting the gaskets on today when i get home and then close them again.
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I have a 2001 Econoline and the turn signals work in the morning but when the vehicle warms up they stop working. I have replaced the bulbs and the fuses. What I could try next.
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I finally decided to replace a leaky manifold as the low compression and leaking oil has gotten to be too much. Not sure but it looks like I'll have to remove the intake manni to get to it. A fortunate side effect is that the oil leaking from the manni seems to have lubricated most of what would be rust-welded bolts. I'd driven it like this since I bought it 3 yrs ago.
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I am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
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So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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Coolant spilled on my upper intake manifold. I washed it off to the best of my ability but when i started the car white smoke came from tge exhaust. What my next move should be?
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I recently traded my mk1 for a 2001 jetta vr6 and though it was running fine the first few days, it now seems to die when the engine heats up. The check engine light and battery light turn on when it dies but turn back off when it cools down. I ruled out the battery variable by getting a brand new one (old one was 5 years old anyway) and the alternator is reading healthy voltages.
I've seen a lot about the crank position sensor (engine speed sensor) and I suspected that was my problem so I took it to an auto parts store and waited for it to die to pull the codes. The codes were P0201, P0205, P0203, P0206, P0444, P1473(?), P0418, and P0413.
The first ones said "fuel injector open circuit" and the others were all saying something about the evap system. I was wondering if these codes related to the crank position sensor or if there's something else I need to worry about. I may have stepped a little bit out of my league with this car and I'm at a dead end.
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I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
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I was checking the oil in my truck yesterday. I noticed the passenger side exhaust manifold was flaking rust. I mean flaking bad, big chunks coming off. Even the heat shield was rusted bad enough that it is barely holding on. Looks like in a couple years will need replaced. I have never seen this on my other Fords.
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I can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
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How difficult is it to change the passenger exhaust manifold? I have just finished replacing the left exhaust manifold. The biggest issue was rusted fasteners and inexperience. Have torches. Any you tube videos show the left manifold being changed but not the right. I do not have a hoist and work in my driveway. Is the right side more difficult and should I leave it to someone with a hoist?
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I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
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I have a 95 4wd f250 with a 351w my manifold gaskets are leaking I was wondering if when I that the time to remove the manifolds and probably be drilling and tapping should I go with headers if I should where can I get a very cheap set I'm on a budget...
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2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
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