Ford - Escape :: 2001 - Alternator Light On Intermittently - Crankshaft Slowing Down The Belt?
Jan 12, 2016
The alternator light on my 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L comes on intermittently. I've replace the alternator, belt, tensioner, and battery. I've check the wiring and the ground and there are no noticeable issues. When I first start up it never comes on. After about 30-40 minutes of driving it will start to come on intermittently. I've noticed that it always shuts off when taking off from a stop. I have the most trouble with it coming on while driving around the city and little trouble while cruising on the highway. I'm completely stumped. Is it possible for one of the other pulleys to be causing this if for instance some bearings were going bad and it was binding up or problems with the crankshaft slowing down the belt?
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Earlier today i noticed a loop hanging under my car. When i removed the item it turned out to be my AC/Alternator belt. Thinking it was bad i went ahead and got a new one. Prepared for a hard battle i find that the part slips on easily. now i can not get the belt tight at all it had about an inch or 2 of slack. I do not have a repair manual and i do not have the money for one. I can not find a diagram for my specific engine. It is a 2001 Chrysler Sebring with a Mitsubishi 3.0L 24 Valve Engine. What am I doing wrong? I need this fixed to go to work tomorrow.
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT (3.0) and after getting some wonderful info here regarding my upper/lower intake problem, I thought I would ask about my weird liftgate problem. When I first got the Escape a few months ago, the liftgate opened fine, but it wouldn't lock at all. Then one day for no apparent reason, it stays locked no matter what I do. Some days it opens fine, other days it doesn't.
At some point I made a connection between the Window Lock button on the driver control panel being in lock/unlock mode determining if the liftgate would stay locked or not, but it doesn't always do the trick. So now I am at a loss as to what is causing this. Its very inconvenient to have to go over the back seats to load items into the trunk area, and its also a security issue if I cant get the liftgate to lock when I want it to. Is this still a liftgate actuator issue? or is it a wiring or fuse issue?
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My 2006 F250 has a single alternator and recently the charge light is on intermittently and I have watched output voltage fluctuate between 12.4 to 13.5 ... sometime a .3 volt bounce one way or another for no noticeable reason.
So rather than buy a new alternator, I would like to replace the voltage regulator and put in some new brushes.
What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
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2007 Ford Escape XLT V6, ~60K miles .... My wife has this rattle in her escape, has had it about a month now. The rattle happens when idling, is less noticeable when driving the car, but might just be drowned out by road noise, etc. Revving the engine in neutral doesn't seem to affect the rattle at all as far as I can tell.
I listened around the engine compartment with a stethoscope for awhile and couldn't pinpoint anything so I told her to bring it in and have it looked at. She brought it in to "Brake King", they do full service mechanic work, but i'm not sure how great they are, but they are flexible about bringing the car in and looking at it right away and my wife can't be without her car for very long since she uses it for work. They said it need the sway bar rods and bushings replaced (they did this and the noise didn't go away). I was pretty suspect about it since the rattle happens when idling, but i'm no expert so I figured they knew what they were doing.
We brought it back and the guy said that the noise was internal to the engine and asked about where we get the oil done. (I do the oil myself and always use Mobil 1, I really don't think it is an oil issue. Maybe the oil filter since we don't change that every time, but again... They did a free synthetic oil change + filter change and that didn't work.
All the while i've been doing research and I decided to go ahead and remove the drive belt to see if the noise would go away when I did ( this whole time I was suspecting something on the drive belt). So I removed it and the noise did go away for the minute or so I ran it without the belt. This pretty much confirmed to me that it was something on the drive belt. I replaced the tensioner since I read that that could be a suspect and they are "relatively" cheap and easy to do. That did NOT work. (I also broke the bolt that holds it on and had a helluva time trying to find a replacement, but that is a whole other story).
So while I had the splash guard off, I listened some more. The rattle really seems to me to be coming from the crankshaft pully area rather than from the A/C compressor area or the alternator area. If it was the C/S pulley, wouldn't it still make the rattle even with the belt off? Looking in the Haynes manual, the C/S pulley doesn't necessarily look like that easy of a replacement (especially if I'm not sure it will actually fix the problem). Anyny opinions as to whether that might be the problem, and if so if a DIYer can do the replacement?
Here is the video. When watching it live, I swear I see a bit of a wobble on the pulley compared to the other pulleys on the belt line, but in the video, you can't really see it...
Video : Mystery rattle ford escape 2007 - YouTube
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One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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My 2005 Ford Escape's alarm goes off intermittently throughout the day and night. This usually occurs after the door ajar light comes on while I'm driving. All doors are secure and I've even replaced the latch assemblies on the driver's door and rear hatch (these are the most used doors). There must be something in this circuit that is causing this to happen. It is frustrating having the alarm go off in the middle of the night when there are no obvious intruders. How can I resolve this issue without replacing any more latches or spending a large amount on diagnostic tools from Ford?
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The car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
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The AC/power steering belt in my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L has intermittently squealed for some time, but lately the squeal has gotten louder. Initially it only happened when the compressor was on, but now it happens when the compressor is off. I have not experienced a loss in steering power but I did notice that the power steering fluid appears to be discolored. I have replaced the belt and re-tensioned it several times hoping this would solve the issue, but it hasn't. I intend to take the belt off again and see if the pulleys all spin freely. When I replaced the belt initially, everything did spin freely. My guess is that the power steering pump may be shot and is putting excessive load on the belt, however, there is no PS pump "whine" and again, no loss of power steering. It looks like I should also check for separated pulleys.
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My 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
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I have a 2005 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6 which I bought 6 weeks ago. It has 103,000 miles on the clock. I mainly use it for going to school and getting around town etc but on Sunday I had to take my parents back. It's a round trip of 230 miles. Weather was sunny. Traffic on the Expressway so a lot of slowing down, stopping, setting off cycles but no issues. On the way home, about two toll plazas from my exit on the I90, I noticed that the engine sounded and felt like I was driving in a higher gear than that required for the speed I was doing (5 mph). It's an automatic (which I'm not used to as I've always driven manual) so I don't make any gear changes but if I'd been in a manual, it felt like I was in 2nd when I should have been in 1st. Does that make sense?
Anyhow, so I managed not to stall at the toll plazas but when I exited, the engine stalled 3 times (twice at intersections and finally when I pulled up outside my house). There is no problem starting the car after this has happened. I called my local autoshop who said to bring it in Tuesday so I didn't drive it Monday. Tuesday morning, it felt exactly the same when I was slowing down for traffic, intersections, turnings etc. The autoshop had it 3 days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. There is no data stored on the computer to show any of this happened and it has driven fine for them when they've taken it out. Beyond frustrated! I know what I heard and felt. Someone mentioned the overdrive staying on but I don't know what that means.
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Had to change the alternator in the 3.0l fwd escape. if some one knows of an easy way to get it out i would love to know. We had to take the manifold cover off right down to the "o" rings as well as what ever we could undo to make a gap between the engine and the fire wall. it took us so long that the repair shop was closed and we had to leave my engine apart overnight with tissue stuffed in the pistons. The one part you know your going to have to get to to fix, and it's almost impossible to get at. It would have been easier to tilt the engine, but we had no hoist, is there an easier way...
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My son's escape has been parked for about 6 mos... alternator went out and I refused to pay to fix it due to some disciplinary issues with him. Anyhow, yesterday I went out to go look at it and the hood won't open. When I parked it I took out the battery and shut the hood. Never had an issue opening the hood prior.
When I pull the lever, its real tight - like the cable is not really moving or if it is, it cant be much. I'm afraid it might break if I keep pulling. I tried having him pull it while I pushed and pulled on the hood, still stuck. I have no clue why or how it is stuck, but wondering on any way to get it open. I can't really see in there...through the grill or under the hood.
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I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
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The 3 pin connector that connects to the alternator, I broke the clip. Do the local auto stores sell that connector in a pigtail form so I can just cut the broken one off and solder the new one in? I'm sure someone has broken that clip before.
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Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
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2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
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I have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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