Ford :: Engine Bucks Only Between 1800 And 2000 Rpm
Oct 19, 2012
2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
Might be a long shot here, but I JUST had this noise/rattle pop up in my '12 GTI 6MT w/ 13k miles.
Turns out I found someone who posted a video with basically the same noise:
Another one:
I hear the same noise while stopped and revving the engine as well as when driving if I let off the throttle and let the RPM's sweep down past the same rev range (1,800-2,000). Sounds like it's coming from the passenger side area.
I'm under warranty so I'm going to take it to the dealership...but I know how they can be with rattles.
View 8 Replies
I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
View 1 Replies
2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
View 6 Replies
I've tried to do some internet search on my dad camry that is stuttering at 1800 - 2000 rpm. the car drives fine & all but every time, the rpm is at 1800 - 2000, the car would stutter or it is not smooth and/or normal.
View 14 Replies
It's a 2004 4wd 4.6 v8 with 140,000 miles. My wife was driving around town today and had to park it at her daughter's house because even if you floor it,the engine will only rev to about 1500-1800 rpm's and idles really low,maybe 600 rpm. she said right before it started running bad,there was a bad smell. Also there is a humming/rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper intake/throttle body area. I went and looked at it,tried to pull codes.
The check engine light isn't on and there are no codes stored in the computer. A couple of days ago,there was code po420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)and the check engine light was on. Engine was running fine. I cleared the code,and it never came back. I am not sure this is related,just trying to give all info possible.
View 6 Replies
My truck has 57k miles on it. At 1800-2100 RPM it whines under or over it is just fine. it has a new air filter in it as well, still makes the noise, it doesn't matter what gear i am in, it only does this under load. if i free rev it , it will not do it.
View 2 Replies
Brooklyn mechanic says "every Jeep Cherokee 2000 6 cyl. 4x4 has this problem--number 3 cylinder mis-fires because it can get too hot". When I return from the country to the city, unload Jeep at the apartment, then, after about 15 minutes, re-start Jeep, it bucks and rumbles and misfires with no power from motor. I pump the gas pedal, and after about a minute it settles down.
Country mechanic has done smoke tests, looked all over for any compression leak, replaced gas cap, put insulation tape over #3 cylinder, and reported that this problem is in the "data bank" of Cherokee problems, where ever that data bank is. The question is, can one live with this problem, or will it cause more problems? Why does the motor settle down after pumping the gas pedal for about a minute? I've had the starter coil replaced recently, as I was told it can get fried from too much mis-firing.
View 8 Replies
This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
View 10 Replies
2001-F150 5.4 Eng. bucking/stumble. I think my problem is slightly different than what I am reading about. Here is what I get (125k miles):
* Engine only bucks/stumbles intermittently and not at idle or at harder acceleration (this bucking is really harsh and makes the truck feel like a learner trying to drive a manual transmission and it is jumping down the street). The engine stumble is not a regular timing such as a cylinder going out and staying out for a period of time. It is quite a random pattern to the jumping
* Originally thought it was humidity related, but now I realize it happens in any climate
* No stumble in neutral at any rpm... only at a stop if I put it in a power brake load.
* When the stumble shows up, it seems like the throttle is around 10-25% (my best guess)
* Sometimes goes days without issue, but sometimes every ride and virtually every acceleration.
* Normally no stumbling at highway speeds, unless going up a hill.
* Every time it stumbles, it can be eliminated by either backing off on the accelerator some, or hitting the accelerator harder.
* No engine codes or CEL has ever come on
* Fuel mileage appears to be the same before and after the trouble started
Here is what I have done to try to correct it:
-> Fuel related (bad gas)... tried to run the tank as close to empty and fill it with fuel from different stations... when this didn't work, I have added HEET to it to dry up any water in tank.
-> Fuel delivery... replaced the fuel filter... seemed to work for one day, but then the gremlins came back.
-> Fuel delivery... ran multiple injector cleaners through tanks of gas.
-> Intake... replaced the filter.
-> Electrical... I don't believe this is related, but my battery died... parts store tested the system and stated the alternator was bad... replaced it, and took the old one to the parts store for bench testing and it was 100% OK... even thought the old showed OK, I left in the new one as a precaution. Only other item was a set of plug changes around 30k miles ago... I think I put in the super duper Bosch plugs with a lifetime warranty.
Current thinking and items I don't understand:
A) The bucking is so severe, it appears to be a random harsh loss of either fuel or ignition. A component that has failed electrically should give me a fault code with this level of severity. No trouble codes or indicators to electrically sense this disturbance...
B) For the fuel path, the most likely item is bad gas and I emptied my tank by running it as close to empty as possible and then used different gas and HEET to eliminate water. THIS MIGHT STILL BE THE CAUSE???
C) Another one for the fuel path is an intermittent fuel pump electrical connection or a weak pump from a pressure point. But if this is the cause, then why does it dissappear upon harder acceleration?
D) One last fuel thought is injectors... perhaps one or more have a range of delivery that they don't work properly... but this doesn't make much sense as at idle and harder accels are fine
E) From an ignition standpoint, perhaps I have failing COP's. I have not just gone out an replaced them due to my limited budget and the difficulty I read about changing them. Again, if one of these is failing in an either open or short condition, the computer should set a code for a misfire for the related cylinders. I get nothing. Hence my hesitation in making this change so far.
One thing i don't understand from the various posts is that the cops can fail under loading. what makes this happen as electrically, i don't think they can detect a load or not? it is hard for me to also understand why my truck would allow me to back off on the throttle or hit it harder and the issue disappears.
View 14 Replies
Experience a grinding noise at around 1500-1800 rpm when driving?
The noise sounds like the 2nd gen valve spring start up but not as loud.
The dealer was able to replicate the noise on my car but they don't know what is causing it.
They called the regional guy to come look at it but he doesn't have a clue where or what is causing the noise.
2015 350fpsort
30k miles
Noise starts at around 10K-15k miles and dealer couldn't replicate it then but I hear it everyday.
Update with video : [URL] ....
View 2 Replies
Not sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
View 24 Replies
My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
View 7 Replies
I have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 11 Replies
My wifes 3V mountaineer has had a bad miss for a long time now. It seems fine until around 40-60 mph where it bucks and misses bad. I replaced all the plugs and it went away for a while but its back again. So far Ive replaced 3 of the coils with the accel coils but its just a shot in the dark really. Any easy way to check the coils or cylinder to see which one is truly the culprit?
View 9 Replies
My 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 has had a low idle (not unsteady) for about a year. Just thought I needed a tune-up. Recently, it started surging and bucking between 40 and 50 MPH. Seems to run fine under acceleration, but then when backing off the accelerator, it starts the surging/bucking. The check engine light is on constantly. A diagnostic pointed to the EGR valve, which I replaced, but it didn't solve anything.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2007 Taurus and for all intents in purposes the car runs great, expect during a snow storm. I drive 30 miles on the hwy too and from work. During a snow storm no matter how bad or if snow is blowing or on the ground my car bucks. I don't know how else to explain it. It is like the transmission is slipping but I know that it isn't because it happens for only a split second. It almost seems like the car wants to shut-off or the brakes are grabbing. This will happen the entire way to work or home every few miles but only during a snow event.
View 5 Replies
Truck is 08' with 5.4, 3.55 gears, auto trans. 84k miles. Recently purchased from the TSA fleet trucks, so I have no clue what PM procedures were done prior to me getting it.
I noticed the following: when I get the truck into OD and then slowly decelerate (meaning I let it coast and im not braking) to about 40mph then get on the gas (normal acceleration) the truck bucks hard almost like when your spinning wheels on snow or ice and put the truck in 4wd and the front rear locks. or a limited slip rear that catches when one wheel is spinning.
if I accelerate hard the truck pushes thru it and doesn't buck as bad. I have searched this out and there are several threads about it that describe just about exactly what im talking about, the following have been brought up as possible problems:
1) bad spark plug/s and or coil/s
this seems to be the most common answer to the possible problem.
2)broke valve spring
3) bad torque convertor
So at 84k miles im thinking replacing the spark plugs would be fine to do as a PM. So coils.............should I just go ahead and replace them as well? I found them (motorcraft). does that seem right?
As far as spark plugs, I have already read the horror stories on the 04-08's breaking the plug in the head. I have also read that before 10/07 was the trucks that had the issue. my build date is 02/08. am I good to go with normal removal of the plugs? the best method I have read for removing them is spray carb cleaner down the hole and let it soak overnight and then the next day drive the truck get it nice and hot and remove them right after you park it,,,,
View 14 Replies
I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
View 13 Replies
have been lurking the forum for the last several months ever since I bought my 2008 F150. I bought it used from a dealership and have had it at their shop no less than seven times since I bought it in March, all for the same things.
The first thing I noticed shortly after buying the truck was that after the truck warmed up it would idle rough. My chief complaint by far, I took the truck in to be looked at and this is when all the real fun began. Similarly I had intermittent power steering that I asked to have looked at.
I was told the fuel filter was completely clogged. They cleaned it and assured me all was well. They also bled the power steering system because apparently someone had changed the PS pump and not bled the system afterwards. I got into the truck to leave and it was idling no better than when I dropped it off. I complained again and was told that "this is just how this truck idles" and called BS. They offered to have the throttle body cleaned for me the next day to alleviate any remnants of rough idle.
Had the throttle body cleaned the next day and took the truck home. After about an hour or two I was still thoroughly dissatisfied with the idle and called back to complain. I forgot to mention that I bought my truck from a Chevrolet dealer who had just taken it in on trade about three days before I bought it. Because I complained they offered to send the truck to a Ford dealership for further diagnosis.
The Ford dealership found fouled plugs, a cracked intake manifold and the water pump and fan clutch both had excessive play. They said those would create a rocking sensation which could be misinterpreted as a rough idle. Over $2500 the Chevy dealership paid them and I was called to come pick up the truck.
I didn't even make it out of the parking lot because the truck was whining something fierce. I couldn't believe no one QC'd the vehicle and complained again. Next morning I am called and they said that the Ford dealership had put the intake manifold gasket in wrong and it had been corrected and I could come pick up the truck.
I go pick up the truck and note that not only is the idle still not right, but now the truck is making a hissing/squealing noise when the truck hits 1800/1900 RPM's. Its strange because its not really RPM specific as it is specific to the pedal position. Accelerating or decelerating causes it to go away but its there nonetheless. Whats worse is that in highway driving at 65 MPH, the pedal is in just the wrong position and it hisses constantly. This sound never goes away...and once its been heard its impossible to unhear.
I complain again and they send the truck back to the Ford dealership. At this point I'm dealing directly with the Director of Service because mine has become a high priority case. The Service Director drives with me, confirms my problem and takes the truck himself to Ford. He drives with their shop foreman and they too confirm the problem.
A week goes by and Ford tells him its wind noise. This is complete bullarky because it happens whether I'm going 20 or 65. He calls them on it and they keep the truck another couple days. They call back and say the truck has nothing mechanically wrong with it and that they are done. Service Director goes and picks up the truck and takes it to a second Ford dealership.
Three days go by and they call and claim Eureka! We've found the problem! Clogged catalytic converter causing air flow restrictions. They replace two converters and I go to pick up the truck. It runs like garbage. Further the sound is still there. Call Chevy, leave the truck and take their loaner back home. Next morning Ford's Foreman calls and basically tells me that there's nothing else wrong with my truck and that he even reprogrammed the PCM (which is why it runs to bad all the time now I guess) to get rid of the idle problems.
Long story short here's everything thats been done:
- Cleaned a clogged fuel filter
- Replaced fouled plugs
- Replaced the intake manifold and gaskets
- Replaced the fan belt
- Replaced the fan clutch
- Replaced the water pump
- Replaced two catalytic converters
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Bled the PS system
- Reprogrammed the PCM and transmission control module
After all of this I still have a hissing sound when I accelerate (video 1:
It seems the truck runs worse once its warmed up and even worse once the AC is turned on. I'm sure he programmed the PCM wrong and thats what is causing the truck to run rough.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2001 F150with the V6 motor, automatic transmission and 73k miles. It has begun having hesitation/missing problems at low rpm, 1000-1800 or so, and it feels like the engine shuts off for a fraction of a second. At idle and above that range it seems to run fine. Also, it only happens in Drive and when the engine is fully warned up - it does not do it when cold or in Neutral. Uphill, downhill, doesn't matter. There are no OBD codes. The spark plugs, air filter and MAF sensor have been replaced recently. I have OBD scantool on my laptop, but have not been able to use it yet.
View 1 Replies
