Ford - Ecoline :: 1996 - Van Vibrates When Turn Left / Right At Low Speeds
May 26, 2012
After I've driven the van for some 10-20 miles it vibrates through out the whole van when I turn left/right at low speeds. There is no problem at any speeds while going straight however. I've replaced both sides upper/lower ball joints, front wheel bearings, driver caliper, all the inner/outer tie rods, adjusting sleeve..etc, both rotors, u-joints(previous owner replaced them twice) new diff fluid, both rear drums with new pads. All 4 tires have signs of dry rot, but good amount of tread still on due to a lot of sitting. The van was sold as a 3.54 limited slip diff, but testing says its a possing traction. What am I missing?
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My car is being so dangerous today. The steering wheel is squealing when I turn left or right and the gas pedal vibrates like hell. What's wrong with my car....
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2007 camry le with 85k miles, there is a bad vibration in the front end, the steering wheel rocks, and when you turn right or left at slow speeds there is one knock, not a clicking, just one knock, also noticed the front driver side wheel has heavy wear on the outside corner of the tire, cv joint, bearings...
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So... Took my car into a tire shop (tire pros) to get a screw pulled out of my front left tire... And after they finish the job - the guy comes up to me and says "your front brakes don't have much life left." I said, "I know I'm planning to change them in the next couple of weeks"...
He then said, "well I think your sensor just went off, when I pulled the car around.." I said "okay", got in the car and drove off - no brake light what so ever.
Anyways, A few hours later when pulling my car around the corner on the way home - I noticed that I am all of the sudden getting a random scraping sound from the front-right rotor anytime I turn the well all the way to the left at slow speeds...
I'm not too worried about it - just want to make sure these guys aren't trying to sabotage my car! The only thing that kills me, is that I didn't have the sound before and no all of the sudden I do? I'm assuming they somehow slightly moved the pad, causing it to somehow squeal - I'm just not exactly sure what they did...
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bought new Michelin primacy tires about 6,000 miles ago. Had the wheels rotated at the 60,000 mile service and now the front end vibrates at speeds over 70mph. I brought the tires back and had them re-balance and it seems to have made the problem worse.
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This is a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 2WD, 2.4L. When I apply the brakes I get a very heavy vibration in the front end, almost like a wobble. The vehicle otherwise stops fine. No noises. The vibration occurs at pretty much any speed over 20 mph. The frequency does not seem tied to the actual speed but it's hard to tell for sure. It does not do it when I apply the emergency brake only.
I replaced the front disk brake pads, with new clips and shims. There were worn down pretty far and needed replacing. Unfortunately that did not make any difference in the vibration. Rotor runout and minumum thickness were checked while changing the disk brake pads and both were within specs. I did a quick inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends by trying to move the tire and everything seems tight enough.
I'm not very proficient on suspension issues. What else can I look for.
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This is something my car has been doing for a while but it seems like it's gotten gradually worse, or at least I've been noticing it more. The car's a 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L 4-cyl, 74000 miles. The issue arises when I am idling in drive (like at a red light). There is a distinct rumbling that you can feel through the seat and the steering wheel, and see if you look at the wheel or dashboard. It's not visible from outside the car, though.
The vibration is worst when the car is idling low -- typically around 500 rpm. When I'm driving, the vibration is not noticeable. Also, when idling, the rpms "pulse" upwards to about 700 rpm, and the vibration goes away. It will be rough for about 5 seconds, then bump up to 700 rpm for a second or so and smooth out. If the car is in neutral or park, the vibration goes away.
So I suppose there's two issues: 1) the low idle that "pulses" upwards, and 2) the vibration itself. Is the vibration just an effect of idling too low, and raising the idle might fix the problem? What would cause a low idle? Or, if the idle does not seem too low, what would cause vibration that is dependent on RPMs?
The scheduled maintenance is up to date, but the car is due for 75K maintenance next weekend. The PCV system was cleaned and valve replaced, air filter replaced, and spark plugs and wires replaced 12000 miles (~1 yr) ago. The idle air control valve was replaced at around 55000 miles (~2 yrs ago), I believe (the previous owner, a friend of mine, had had trouble with the car stalling at idle, and replacing the IACV seemed to fix it).
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I just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry with 78K miles on it. Everything is great except at highway speeds it shakes and vibrates when braking. The higher the speed the worse it is. Steering wheel shakes as well. I pulled both front tires off and the rotors appear to be smoothe on both sides with no grooves, etc. However, I'm due for new front brake pads. There's some pad left but could that be why it shakes and vibrates when braking? How do you tell if rotors are warped? Rotors are smooth but could they still be warped?
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Here is my issue, none of my fan speeds work except for high. It doesn't matter if it is on heat or a/c. I know on other cars there is a resistor that needs to be replaced and then I've also heard of blower motors going bad. I switched out the switch to see if it was that, and it wasn't. Is there a common problem out there and where is it located?
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Just started noticing that whenever i turn right the passenger side front wheel vibrates. 2003 ford explorer xlt 4x4. i asked a friend and he said cv axle.
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I just bought this Ranger a really bad steering issue. When at low speeds, when I go to turn the steering "jumps/kicks." Then after I straighten out at the end of the turn it jumps in the direction that the steering wheel is being turned. This goes away at higher speeds (40+mph).
I was told by the seller that it needs a new steering pump, but my mechanic said that it was operating well. He noticed that the bearings were loose on the driver side and tightened them up. The problem went away. I just finished driving it for about 20 miles and the problem is back.
What do you think? Is there a way to easily shut off the p-steering to see if that is the problem? Is this a good idea?
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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I have a 1996 Explorer with the 4.0 motor. Today coolant started running out between the Freon compressor and the block at the front left corner. I cant see behind the compressor. Compressor hose seems to be short and stiff so removal of the compressor is questionable? I look from the front and does not seem to be thermostat or temp sensors. It appears to be behind that, like the bottom of the intake manifold? I wonder if there is a known problem in this area or how to go about disassembly. Don't want to take off compressor and steering pump if the problem is intake manifold. Have a problem ? Where to start disassembly to look?
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
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I've noticed that when I take right or left turns at slow speeds I hear a series of clunks. Sounds like a pipe rolling in the bed. Guessing it has something to do with the rear springs??
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Our "brand new" 2010 outback (7K miles) was hit while parked on the street. Rear-ended on the passenger side, both rear tires and Left front tire were no longer vertical. The hit was also so hard that the front bumper had to be replaced from hitting the car in front of us. Luckily there was no frame damage, only tires & drive train. Almost $9,000 in repairs later, the car vibrates when turning at moderate or higher speeds (30mph or faster). The Vibration sounds like hitting the rumble strips on the edges of the highway and gets worse the tighter the turn or the faster the speed. When going straight, no noise or vibration. Mechanic says its a bearing, but can't tell which one because its not bad enough yet.
My uncle thinks it might be related to a mis-alignment in the drive train - possibly causing the rear axles and Differential? to be out of square with each other or how it is actually bolted to the frame. We have put on about 600 miles with no change except a fear of doing more damage. Are either of these on track? Or do I really need to bring it to a Subaru dealer/repair shop? (our local mechanic convinced us to let him do the work, and due to a variety of reasons we decided to go that route - hope it was the right one)
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I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
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We have a 1996 Nissan Quest - but only 72000 miles (we bought it from our daughters' 90 year old piano teacher who only used it for camping trips with 45K miles 3 years ago) I have an intermittent stalling problem. Only at low speed, sometimes going up hill or into a turn, but it's also happened going straight on, I get a compete loss of power. Still have steering, (not power) so I wrestle the beast over, and it restarts right away. No check engine light. This has happened about 6 times. Not low gas level, usually 1/2 + tank. No codes.
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Our Pathfinder shakes side to side around 60mph and quits after 65 or 70 (We live in New Mexico and commute through Texas where speeds are much higher than back East). We have changed shocks, struts & mounts, tires, and alignments. Most of these have been changed multiple times over the years, especially tires.
We have been driving this way since May of 2005 (129,916 miles). We have TRIED to get it fixed. We have had it in shops all across the country (we travel a bit). We talk it up to people we meet who know cars. We have taken it to Nissan, with no results. NO ONE has solved the problem and we are out lots of money.
We are now at 205,000 miles. I would really like to get this fixed! We cannot afford to just buy a new car. Mechanics across the country have not solved this issue!
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I am thinking that maybe my ignition switch is bad and needs replaced. When i turn the key on sometimes the pump wont turn on and thus wont start (brand new pump couple weeks ago)
all my fuses are good
its only done this once but today it started fine ran for maybe 2 or 3 seconds and then died just like i turned the key off no sputtering or anything but started right up again and was fine
sometimes it feels like its lost power and burning alot more gas then it should and every now and then at higher rpm it will miss but only once and it very rarely does that
relay is good
ground to fuel pump is good
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I have a '96 Dodge Ram 1500. The only way I can describe the problem is when I go around 75, it feels like it loses power for a split second, then recovers. It will do this repeatedly, until I slow down a bit, then it won't do it at all. But once I speed up it will do it again. My first thought was the distributor/cap.
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