Ford - Eclipse :: Starting After Turning Ignition Switch Several Times Randomly
Jan 31, 2014
Recently my car has been giving me lots of problems starting. At first I thought it was a battery issue. All the lights on my dashboard would turn on but once I turn my key nothing happens . After trying to turn my car on all I would hear is one click . I get a new battery and the problem happened again . Thing is , it only happens sometimes and at the most inconvenient times at that.
I then thought it was a alternator problem but I ran the test to check that like taking off the the negative cable and even both after I started my car and the car stood running smoothly. Had someone else check the alternator and they said it was fine.
Today I had to turn the ignition switch about 5 times before the car even started . When it finally started , it sound like it was struggling to turn on. I have a 2001 eclipse gt.
What it can be?? Sometimes I'm scared to turn my car off . Someone told me it could be the cold weather , but I find it so hard to believe that it's just that. Especially when it happens at the most random times . When it wants to basically .
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I own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
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Sometimes when I go to start the car, I have to turn the ignition anywhere from 1 to 6 times to get the car to start. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot. I hear the engine trying to start, after like 5 sec, I stop so I don't burn the starter up. The battery is fine, there are no fault codes. Recently it seems like its taking more times turning the ignition to get the car started. Sometimes, its the first time, other time its not.
Its an 2003, I4 with 76k on it.
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My car was randomly not starting for past 2 months. I would get in the car, press the break pedal and push the start button. The car would not start and the ignition would just go to ON. I turned the ignition off, closed and reopened the door with the remote and then was able to start it. Few days later the trick stopped working. Did some research and found something on faulty P gear selector sensor. They recommended starting the car on N. That has been working for me for few weeks until one day this tricked stopped working for me. I decided to replace remote battery and had no issue for past two weeks. New remote batteries solved my problem.
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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Ever since I had a tire blow out on the highway almost 4 months ago, I have noticed there is a creaking noise that comes from underneath the car at times. Kind of sounds like a ship creaking or something. Tried to get the mechanic to listen to it,he drove the car around the block but all heard was the convertible top hooks rattling. But my girlfriend heard it the other night and she said that wasnt normal and I need to bet it checked out.
Could it just need to be "lubed" I figure those placed like jiffy lube must offer that service for some reason. The mechanic said no. I had a car that the axle broke while I was driving it down the street... I was going really slow at the time. Anyway, what could be making that noise? its a 2003 mitsubishi spyder eclipse convertible with 80,000 miles on it. I am always worrying over this dang noise.
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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
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I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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Having problems with Ignition switch going to Acc. even with the key removed and the steering locked???
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I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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Well I am working on the van today. 2000 Windstar. Recently (6 months?) the chime that is supposed to come on if you have the key in the ignition but off and open the door does not work. This has contributed to the keys being locked in the van 1 time so far.
So today I am working on something else and low an behold I notice something. If I put the steering wheel in the lowest tilt position then the chime comes on if the key is in the ignition or even if it is not in the ignition. If I tilt the wheel back up to normal driving position then it is back to no chime at all.
So I guess there is something wrong with whatever switch detects the key in the ignition. Problem is I don't know where this switch is at.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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My young lad just picked up a 2004 F150 4x4. While fixing it up we have encountered a weird problem. The key goes in , starts and runs the truck but cannot be removed, unless you unhook the battery.
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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I got a 2010 F-150 and just installed RECON headlights and taillights on my truck yesterday. Today, I went to go and use my remote start and the lights come on like it should and then it beeps 3 times and doesn't start. All my doors are closed. I thought maybe it was something with my hood sensor but I couldn't really find it.
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