Ford - E350 :: 1999 - Ignition System Gradually Getting Stiff / Key Will Not Turn
Jan 22, 2014
I live full-time in an RV which results in very bad condensation building up in the cab and over the past year, the ignition system has gradually got more and more stiff.At first, it was noticeable that it did not spring back from "start" to "run" (the airbag light remained on and the fan/indicators did not work) but I just had to tweak it into the right position.
This was mainly an issue when starting from cold.Then, after a long drive with the heater on, it would not turn off. It finally took a wrench to turn the key off. Leaving off the heater seemed to work but it gradually got worse and it got more and more difficult to turn it on.I finally replaced the key cylinder but it made absolutely no difference and now the key physically will not turn. I am now sitting in a vehicle with no propane and full waste tanks.
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I have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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I am having problems with my automatic choke. Holley 80457. When I turn on the ignition and depress the accelerator, the choke plate does not close. It is wired and has vacuum.
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I have a 2001 F250 SD V10 and when at a dead stop and with the brakes applied, steering becomes very stiff and almost impossible to turn the wheels. If I let off of the brakes and move a little the steering is just fine. I hate like hell to spend the money on a new power steering pump if it isn't going to fix the problem. Simply put, deap stop, brakes on, wheels don't want to steer. How do I fix it?
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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I just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
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I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
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I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
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I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
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Where I should start looking to solve this thing. Got in my truck to drive home at the end of the day today and noticed the radio was on. Started it up, seemed normal. Shortly after the thing started incessantly *BONG-BONG-BONG*-ing at me. Drove home, turned it off. Started pulling fuses, find the culprit, silence it.
It's no longer constantly on and it seems to have flattened out and is only doing it now when the key is in the off position, otherwise silent when running or in the normal on position. I know it's not this contact (the one in the tumbler above the release pin) that's making the problem happen, as mine is disconnected. It's definitely something in the ignition tumbler or similar that's making at least a couple of the circuits think the key is in when it shouldn't be.
I don't even have the factory service manual for this thing yet with all the electrical diagrams to figure it out. Truck is a 2001 F250 PSD Lariat CC, for what it's worth.
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I have a 09 F350 Lariat SuperCrew SRW 4x4, Last night the ignition key would not turn at all. Tried wiggling the steering wheel, (noticed it wasn't locked), wiggled the shift lever (auto trans). After about an hour of "beatn and jiggling, it just started working!?? What caused this, neither does my dealers service dept. It's working fine now.
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So I have a 99 F250SD, earlier this year my wipers started going on by themselves, switch didn't seem to effect them, wouldn't turn off with the switch but would with the ignition off. Then they stopped working all together along with the washer. Checked fuses and relays, put a new switch in and still no dice. When I move the switch the wiper/washer relays do not click at all.
I've tried tracing the wires but haven't been able to find any issues there. The gem is as clean and new looking as one made yesterday. Is there a pinout test I can run on the plug into the motor? or which color wires coming out of the fuse box to check? I'd really like to get this fixed so I can drive my truck this winter.
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I must be missing something here. Where is the flasher for the turn signals? It isn't the two relays behind the radio is it?
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I have a 2002 F350 V10 and one night I turned the headlights on and when the ignition switch was turned to the off position the lights would go off. When the ignition switch is turned off the lights come back on. I changed the ignition switch but the problem still exists.
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Since yesterday, every time I turn the key off and remove it from the ignition the truck just keeps running. Engine, radio, according and everything just like the key was still there. When I press the unlock button it shuts everything down. It is a 2014 F250 with 4500 miles on it. I don't know if I did something or what but I am confused.
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Starts fine most of the time. Then suddenly key will turn but not engage ignition. Power OK to everything but ignition. Have replaced starter & ignition module. Still does the same thing. Leave for a while & truck starts fine. 2006 F250 6 litre diesel ...
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I have a 01 f250, I've only had it a couple of months. It has 300k miles on it and has its share of problems. I knew that going in and I just bought it for a work truck around the farm and honestly I don't expect it to work perfectly. But since I have had it there are times where it will not crank, it will only click under the dash and then a second click under the hood. It will do that in the mornings a lot and by the afternoon it will crank. I found that jumping the 2 larger wires on the starter solenoid bypasses the problem and it will turn over and crank. So I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem, but it still does the same thing. I know the batteries are good.
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On my class C motor home, 1999 with V10 engine when I turn the ignition key to the start position I get absolute silence, when I release the key and turn it to the start position again it always starts. I have fitted a new starter motor, new solenoid and new battery but still the problem persists. I'm scared that one time it will not crank over on the second attempt.
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2009 f350 6.7 super duty... What is causing my truck to shutter or shake when I turn the ignition off?
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So I just bought a 2012 F250 with 28,300 on the clock. I was driving it home yesterday (500 miles) and I noticed that every time I shut the truck down the external temp display would display -40 F at start up and then gradually climb to whatever the ambient temp is, around 60F but in that 500 mile distance it seemed to be stuck at whatever the high was and not drop unless I stopped the truck and powered it off and we would start at -40 again.
Where I should start troubleshooting this? I have some factory powertrain warranty left but this will not fall under that so I need to fix it myself and there is nothing in the owners manual about this. Oh it is a crew cab long box, with the 6.2, XL package but has all of the benefits of an XLT it just has vinyl floors.
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