Ford - E150 :: 1993 - Cooling Fan Clutch Too Long / Will Hit Radiator?
Jul 4, 2015
I need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
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I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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I've got a 93 ford 150 econo Van 310,000 miles. Steering volume ratchet shaft bused a couple of years ago. Horn worked then only the airbag lite would flash on and off. Got everything from the yard, steering wheel, air bag the whole thing. Replaced it and the air bag light stayed off and horn worked! About 6 months ago the airbag light again on & off then right after that the horn wouldn't work. However after a good rain and as I was turning mostly right sometimes left. The horn would just start blowing until I straighten the wheel and if someone was close by I would just wave. But the horn would still not work normally. it is finding a ground when I turn the wheel. I have no leak inside only happens in or after a rain sometimes. It rains a lot.
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The differential is howling like crazy on my 1993 E150 5.0 van, it has over 200k miles on it so I'm assuming the bearings need to be replaced! Before I tackle this major project is there any special tools I need or a special procedure I should use?
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I just finished replacing the entire AC system on my 88 E150 ... All was well at first but shortly after finishing the r12 charge, the clutch began to click very loudly when engaging or disengaging. You can clearly hear it inside the cab. The air gap was set to .028 which is within spec according to the manual. I checked the air gap today and it was about .030
Am thinking,, could the snap ring have come loose that holds the pulley on allowing the pulley to be pulled forward when it engages? Once engaged the tension from the belt pulls the pulley back in in alignment? It sounds like two pieces of metal smacking together, even when it disengages. Kinda of like if you had the pulley in one hand and the clutch in the other and smack them together.
I did have a little trouble getting the snap ring to seat in the groove on the bottom side of the snap ring. I know it locked in the groove very good where the gap in the ring is and on both sides. The thicker bottom of the ring, I was not absolutely positive it was in all the way. i lightly tried tapping on it and it wouldn't go in any farther. There was no visible gap, I just couldn't tell if that thicker part was in all the way.
I used the proper removal and install tool when setting the air gap. The install tool threaded onto the compressor shaft and pressed the clutch plate on as you tightened the outer nut, so I didn't use a hammer...
I have two different new clutch plates. I used the one on the right as the one on the left fit a little tight on the shaft. The compressor is a FS6 xbolt and all the parts are motorcraft. What to check?
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How would I test (if Possible) the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch on my 88 E-150 4.9L? I had to replace the evaporator, it was leaking along a seam. I have a feeling the Cycling Switch is bad too.
I was hoping for a simple test w/o Gauges. The Switch is in a real tough spot to remove it. I also heard they could be adjusted. There are no leaks in the system and no blockages, that we detected when we evacuated and recharged the system.
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A/C takes a long time to start cooling, but after it starts it gets as cold as it should. Seems to do okay while highway driving after it starts cooling. Is this a low refrig problem or do I have bigger issues?
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It reached 93 here today and it has always taken too long for my AC to reach a cool temperature. I have never had the AUTO setting slow the fan down even at highway speeds. I am moving to TX in the next few months and I already know what it is like driving it down there...HOT! I could really like improving the efficiency of the AC of my Ex.
Can I use the same insulation used for home AC lines on the truck? Is there any high-temp insulation I could fun over the lines? I found a coolant shut-off valve for the heater core on 7.3 trucks, but not for the 6.0. Is there an equivalent for us with the 6.0?
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My wife's 2009 Ford Flex has an intermittent radiator cooling fan issue. It has dual cooling fans and with the AC on, the passenger side fan runs wide open but the driver side fan doesn't run. With the AC off, neither fan runs even though I let the car idle for a long time to try and get it hot enough to allow the fan(s) to turn on. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, the passenger side fan runs extremely fast when the AC button is pushed. I've checked all connections and applied some dielectric grease to the connections. I also checked the fuses to the fans. Have to buy the entire dual fan assembly?
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
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My transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
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Went outside to start my '99 V6 and nothing! No interior lights, no door chime, no annoying ding ding with the key in the ignition. The car ran great yesterday but I noticed it sounded like the cooling fan was running long after the car was turned off in my garage.
I tried using a car starter/charger and charged it up for 3 hours - was reading a positive charge on the gauge- but it won't start. When I get ready to crank the car with the charger attached to it, the fan noise kicks in again but it isn't coming from the radiator fan- it sounds like it is coming from under the air intake for the air filter.
When I attempt to start the car,I can best describe the sound as a machine gun like cranking noise that lasts as long as I turn the key. I am hoping it isn't the starter. The battery is less than 2 years old with about 10k miles on it.
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The cooling fan clutch never seems to disengage so I was wondering where can i find a clutch that is light duty so it will disengage easy and work with gas mileage napa list two different ones, maybe off a different vehicle....
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
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Why when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
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Lately I've noticed the radiator fan has been running fairly excessively for the entire duration of a trip. (~1 hour) The ambient outside temperature has been around 30 degrees and was driving normally on the highway for the entire trip. (engine temps are normal as well)..
When I shut the engine down and get out you can tell the fan was really working since it takes a good 10 seconds to spin down. (almost like a jet engine shutting down). Still other times, it doesn't do it with the same conditions. One of the only things I can narrow it down to is it seems to always run long when it's the first drive of the day.
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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I have a quick question, I got a 2005 mk4 gli, and when the cooling fans go on, only one works, the other one does not, I checked the fuse and its fine.
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I am having issues with my air conditioning on the 05 prius. For some reason when I leave to go somewhere its fine, but if I stop for long periods of the time the a/c stops cooling, the fan is still blowing. Once i take off it cools somewhat better but still not cold as it should be.
I have already had the car checked for DTCs and there are none, plus I had the a/c vacuumed down and recharged to factory specs, it still has the same problem.
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I have a 93 pontiac grand am 3300 V6 with auto tranny. My problem is cooling fan starts running as soon as car is started. AC not on or defrost. In turn doesn't allow engine to reach normal operating temp. I have replaced both the ect sensor & gauge sending unit. I've noticed there's a red light with temp symbol in lower left hand corner of instrument panel that stays on & won't allow ac to come on. Also if I unplug fan relay & allow engine to come up to operating temp the light hoes off. Until the engine drops below 200degrees then it'll come on again. It has just the one fan & I have ruled out the fan relay cause I replaced with a new one. Also, looking for wiring diagram for the rest of relays on firewall & as to what they control.
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