Ford E150 Conversion Van 1991, V8. Replaced spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injector, cleaned gas tank, replaced gas. Ignition turns and starts but sputters loudly and stalls soon after. We've tried just about everything but it won't stay running.
View 5 Replies1988 Ford E-Series Van ford van starting problems I have a 1988 ford van e150 302 that wont start. when it did start, it ran rough, then progress to needing start fluid to start. Now it cranks but wont start at all. it sat for almost a year with additves in gas but it does smell now unlike normal gas. it has sta-bil and gas line anti freeze as additives. A rail mount high pressure pump was put on two years ago. Could the hi-pres pump been installed backwards? Now it will not start even with starting fluid, just cranks and tries(pops and backfires a little sometimes). I towed in to a mechanic to get diagnosed.
In regards to the 1988 ford van start problems, the mechanics said that fuel is bad and needs drained, that in tank pumps seem to have pressure(low pressure pumps). the rail (high press pump) they say tests 15-20 psi only. the want to drain tanks, replace pump and "go from there". They also said a multitude of problems can happen from "bad gas" ranging from injectors needs cleaning to bent push rods, lifters and crank shaft can be damaged. All may need cleaned, fixed or replacing. does this seem a little fishy ? Could it need the timing set? Or injectors bad?
My 2007 V6 Sonata Has a very loud clatter when I start it. It will last anywhere from 2-5 seconds then it usually goes away. It almost sounds like a baseball card hitting the spokes of a bicycle. It's within warranty and last time I took it to the dealer they first claimed they couldn't hear it. Then they changed their story and said that it was the belts warming up, and they said this is a perfectly normal sound for Hyundais to make. My fiance's family has owned 3 Hyundais and they have never had such noise come from any of there vehicles. Both of my other cars never sound like this.
View 17 RepliesIntermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
View 14 RepliesMy engine stalls when cold or warm, when put in gear or idling in gear at a stop. If I left foot break and give a little gas I can usually keep it going. I ran 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through, but no dice. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? If so, where is it located? 1991 Aerostar 3.0 Auto RWD
View 14 RepliesI have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
View 2 RepliesAfter driving through high water (only 12"-18" deep), my 2002 Suburban stalled. It restarted but runs rough, doesn't idle well, and still stalls and sputters under acceleration. A week later (it's been dry and I've driven it 70 or so miles since the water), it's still stalling and sputtering. Under braking, I must keep the accelerator down enough to keep the RPMs slightly above 1000 or it will stall. Obviously something got wet that shouldn't have gotten wet.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 mercury cougar, every time the fuel gets to a half tank or below it stalls when going up a hill or around a curve, anytime u give it extra acceleration when it's a half tank or below it stalls and sputters, it's been in the shop for 3 months and got it out and ran good for a day now back bad I need a mechanics advice on what it could be other than fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, or plugs and wires... I've tried all of them...
View 1 RepliesI have a 09 chevy aveo5 and just recently when i fill up my car it sputters and stalls 2-3 times before it stays on, I never let it get completely empty could this be a air in my gas line?
View 8 Replies1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
My Element sputters and/or stalls after driving through standing water in the roadway as during a heavy rain. Not really deep water, just normal roadway puddles and gutter overflow. Does not happen in light rain, but has happened after a car wash with an undercarriage wash. Feels like the car is running out of gas, sputtery, no response when giving it gas, may or may not stall. After driving a few minutes, the problem goes away.
Two mechanics, including the dealer, have looked at it and can find no obvious reason, but of course it never exhibits the problem at the shop. Both mechanics say this could be umpteen different causes.
I've only owned the car about 10 mos (purchased used through dealer with warranty, one owner, clean carfax, pristine maintenance) and this has happened maybe 5-6 times. ~112k miles.
I have a 2006 Nissan Altima with 142K miles. It is not starting right away. It coughs/sputters anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 seconds before turning over and starting. What the issue is?
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Honda Civic sputters a bit after it starts, and then smooths out and runs fine. This has been happening in the morning and at the end of the work day this week. I recently got a new starter. My battery is rather old. Could it be that?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
View 8 Replies1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo ran smooth until suddenly stalled; would restart for only a few seconds. Visually diagnosed and installed fuel pump; then ran for 2 minutes & rough before stalling. Now we have a new crankshaft sensor; now runs for 5 seconds. We rebuilt one part at a time? Diagnostic equipment not available.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
View 5 Repliesmy daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 It has started stalling right after it starts. It will idle for 1-2 seconds and then stall. After it stalls, it will not start again. If you let it sit for about 15 mins, it will usually start. If you just bump the starter and let it idle and die a few times, it will start and the engine will race for about a few seconds and then come back down to an idle. It runs fine otherwise. There seems no rhyme or reason to it. Hot, cold, etc. I do notice that it smells like gas after it starts like an old carb engine does when it is flooded.
It shows a p1401 code but has since I have owned it the last two years. I unhooked the battery overnight and after that, it ran fine for about a week. I unhooked it again last night for about 30 min and had no luck. Maybe just a coincidence.
This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 RepliesI have a 91 RS 3.1 with a 5 speed that is not starting.
The problem started with the key not engaging the starter at all, a friend who is much better at electrical and we found the security relay switch behind the kick panel is not engaging on it's own. we manually engaged the switch and now the key will spin the starter but the engine is not firing up only spinning.
does the security relay switch control anything other than the starter engaging.
There is gas in the car. using a screwdriver and spark plug wire we have verified that we are getting spark.
We got the car a couple days ago. It was running fine then, although suspiciously the guy we bought it from had it running when we got there, leading me to believe he knew about the problem already and didn't want us to. The problem is that after my dad drove it to work yesterday, he tried to start it up at lunch and it wouldn't start. It didn't sound like the starter was trying at all, just a bunch of electronic clicks. However, the electronics all work, dash lights, headlights, locks, etc. It just doesn't seem to be able to start up.
When we took it to a shop for an unrelated issue, a mechanic said there were wires hanging down in the trunk for a sub, and we knew this but thought it was no big deal. He told us that if it was wired wrong, it could be draining the battery, even without being hooked up to a sub. I checked the battery, and there were a few extra wires hanging off the negative terminal. However, that doesn't make sense to me, how could a couple of wires attached to just the negative terminal do anything?