My 331 ran good til it died driving down the road, won't start unless gas is pushed and cuts out immediately after starting, even if gas is pushed more. I know it's getting fuel cuz I can see it in my filter, brand new plugs.
View 15 RepliesI have a 06 f350 with 140,000mile and today I was driving to a buddy's house and the truck died on me as I was doing 45mph so I towed it home and check the codes I have 1 low icp pressure and 1 low icp during starting / cranking and 1 ckp out of range I think that how it's worded so I looked at the icp pressure and it's 0 and the desired is around 1000 and the volt is .56 and as far as the ckp the rpm are reading so I don't know what to do about that ? Could the STC fitting and dummy plug and standpipe o rings really go out on me like this ? Or am I missing something? I am also trying to track down a oil pressure gauge for the Icp fitting to check it
View 9 Replies2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
View 10 RepliesDriving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
View 3 RepliesMy niece has a 1999 F150 with a 4.6L engine. She was driving it down the road and it died and would not start. She called her husband, he went where she was, and when he got there, it started. She drove it home, and the next day, same thing. Died going down the road, no start, let it sit overnight, cranked like a new truck. Now it has died and will not start at all. They replaced the fuel pump. Nothing. When you turn on the key, the fuel pump runs continuously. If you pour fuel in the air filter, it will start. They checked all the fuses, nothing blown. When they try to hook it up to an OBD scanner, it does not work. No codes, nothing, it won;t pick it up.
View 9 RepliesI was driving down the freeway, headed up a hill and my truck started slowing down, rapidly, it eventually died. I put it in neutral and started it up, went about 1' and it died again. It did this several times. I was almost to the top of a hill and was hoping I could coast down, but didn't make it. It ended up dying completely.
I would turn the key to start it, and it would keep trying to turn over (even when i let go of the key. it was weird). Then after a few times of that, the battery just died.
I also noticed a smell. Like something burning. I noticed it off and on for the last week and asked a friend to check it out but he was like "oh its nothing".
friend with their Mountaineer issues and i have no clue where to go or what to do now. Shes had it for approx 2 months and didn't have any issues till this one. It died on her while driving and would rarely start back. She had it towed to a crappy garage and the lazy mechanic stood beside it and "listened" for the fuel pump. He said he didn't hear it, gave her a quote and walked away. She then had it towed home and i was contacted. If i get under the truck while she turns they key on, i can hear/feel the fuel pump. It's quiet, but there.
But now, you can turn it over for about 10 seconds and it will start the almost immediately die. During one of the times before she had it towed, she took it to auto zone and had the codes pulled. I have a scan of all the detailed info i can post if needed, but it pulled: P2104 P2106 P2111 and P2135. Each of those mean something along the lines of a sensor but the only two sensors mentioned in more that one code is the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the Electronic throttle control (ETC). I've been trying to research what i can on it, and from what I've read is when these codes are pulled, those two sensors are rarely the problem.
i just bought my first diesel truck, a 7.3 of course. 2002 f350 4x4 crew cab, short bed. Any ways i drove it for like 2 weeks and left it at my uncles house so he can use to go to work. then 2 days later he calls me to tell me that the truck shut off while driving just like that. he tried turning it on a couple of times and it would just crank. he gave up and had it towed. I have been looking through all power strokes forums and found some solutions like changing the CPS or the IPR.
View 14 RepliesMy transmission died last night on the way home from school. I was driving down the road just after leaving school and as I started to accelerate the car, I noticed that it wasn't moving so I pushed the pedal a little harder when I saw the rpm gauge rev. Up pretty high. The car was showing it was in 4 th gear and as I was slowing down so was the number on the display. I came to a stop and tried to move forward but noting. I had the car towed to the dealership so now the fun begins to see what is wrong with it.
I had the car in a few months ago for a whining sound coming from the car especially when I would put the car in reverse to back up. The dealer said we don't see anything wrong, go figure.
I'm suspecting that the transmission is shot. When the car was towed to the dealer I had to engage the parking break because the car wouldn't stay parked, it would roll even though it was in park.
TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
While driving uphill yesterday, my truck 6.0 f250 completely died. Added oil cause it's been a while and tried starter fluid. Cranks but won't start. Pulled OBD codes p0300, p0304, p0401, p0460, p0562, p0606, and p2290. Checked IPR, works fine. Checked fuses. Low voltage codes are most likely from battery dying during the test.
View 2 RepliesI have a 07 6.0 that won't start it died a few weeks ago while driving. Being a mechanic I've done numerous things to the truck in order to fix all the common 6.0 problems but can't figure this one out. It will crank and get oil pressure and fuel pressure but seems to not be getting fuel. The IPR valve isn't clogged I tried with 2 working valves nothing worked. Along with changing the ficm. The connections to the ficm are clean and all in tact. I have an edge evolution chip that isn't even showing any codes. Not sure what to try next since I don't have any codes to go off of.
View 11 RepliesMy wife was driving through the intersection when the truck died... Tried to start it again but no go, I had it towed home, and stared to troubleshoot.
I have a Scan gauge2 and these were the readings: FMP: 47.5, IPR: 84.71, SYC: 1, ICP: 0
I pulled the IPR (that was only a year old) and the screen was perfect. I had 11.5v at the plug for the IPR, and on the Ohms scale I was reading 1.8Mohms.
I went to the dealer and got a new IPR, and still no start. and the only change in the reading on the scan gauge was the ICP is now reading 56. The gauge on the dash is reading normal oil pressure, but I haven't checked actual Low-end oil pressure.
Last month I replace the HPOP, and 1 faulty injector. Now I thinking wire loom, defective new IPR from the dealership or the new HPOP has failed.
Car dies going down the road, last year I was towed three times on freeway, once in town. I noticed that before it shuts down the air condition stops and auto windows won't work then I go to step on the gas and nothing.. it can happen two miles from home or 100 miles from home. after it sits awhile it will start. been to mechanic and he had it for a month and ran it everyday he said and nothing like that happened.
View 19 RepliesGoing down road truck just died replaced fuel filters still wouldn't start no codes check all fuses and made sure the FICM was plugged in....
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Accent. When driving on the interstate yesterday, I turned the turn signal on and my car died for a moment. After I parked it, it would not start. It did not turn over. Took the battery out to get checked. It was good. Put back in and then the car started. Drove home. The radio and clock would flicker intermittently but made it home. Today it will not start at all. Nothing comes on.
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger 20012.5LManual Transmission4 Cylinder Engine4x2 Drivetrain~160K Miles
While driving home tonight, my truck suddenly lost power, as if I turned the key to turn off the motor. There was a beep, the one that goes off whenever I open the door while the key is in or the light is on, then the "Check Gauge" light came on (the one that warns me when my gas tank is near empty), following that the yellow Battery light came on and finally the orange "Check Engine" light came on.
I pulled out into an empty dirt lot, but that was pretty difficult as the power steering was gone (since the truck was off). After parking the truck, I turned the key to the actual "Off" position, pulled the key out and gave the truck a few moments. I put the key back in and tried to get my truck running again. Of course, it didn't work, but I figured it wasn't the battery because it lacked the sputtering motor turn. There's that and the battery is under two years old. The truck seemed like it really wanted to turn and start, but it lacked a certain something to get it up and over that last hill to vehicular movement. I don't think I was lacking gas, since it should have given me the red "Check Gauge" light and even if I was, I know I have another 5 miles before I have to fuel up (I would know since I've tested it to see how far it would go on that light). I was pretty low on gas when this happened, so the thought came to me that maybe my gauge was starting to get a bit wonky. Then a more realistic thought came to mind.
I've had this bad habit for a while, where I fill my gas tank to only about a quarter or a half at the most. Part of it stems from a paranoia of having somebody siphon gas out of my truck at night; yes, I could have fixed this by installing a lock on the gas cap (albeit, my counter-argument is that it's better to have them take the little bit of gas than have hundreds of dollars of body damage from an aggressive thief). Anyway, I've heard that this habit of filling the tank below half can speed up fuel pump failures. Despite this, I've had no other symptoms of a fuel pump failure coming, as I haven't experienced any issues with surging/bucking.
So here are my questions:
1) Am I right in assuming it's a fuel pump failure?
2) Are these instructions to fuel pump replacement accurate? (Yes, I know the DIY Matrix provides every reason on why I should avoid doing this myself, but my wallet I'm itching for a project.
3) If it's not a fuel pump failure, what could it be?
I have a 2003 Ex 6.0 psd, 155k miles, and was on my way to work to a site 40 miles from nowhere. I was about 10 miles from my destination cruising around 65 when the Ex started losing power. I would say within a couple of miles power was gone and i had no choice but to pull over. I popped the hood, got out had a look around and saw no leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried to restart it to no avail. There was no check eng light or any signs something was wrong.
I just so happened to have my OBD scanner with me and plugged it in and read for any extra codes. Three popped up on the screen: P0232, P0263, and P0278.
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary (Feedback) Circuit High Voltage,
P0263 is described as a cylinder number 1 contribution/balance. In essence, this code is stating that the number one cylinder in the firing order is experiencing a fuel-related problem.
P0278 same as above for cyl 6.
Right away i thought the fuel/lift pump took a dump on me and was causing the fuel issues in the two cylinders.
I am working on a99 2500 4x4. 7.4 Replaced 230,000 engine with 90,000 engine.I had to fix a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sensor. Replaced it and delivered it.
Ran great Gal was driving at 50mph. Engine died and wouldn't start. She fried starter trying. Replaced starter, has no codes. 59-60 lbs fuel pressure with key on then holds 50 lbs. 60 lbs while cranking. Has spark at plug. NO security light staying lit or flashing. flashes then goes out. Smell of unburnt fuel is strong. Also no oil pressure at gauge when cranking and her key fob doesn't work.
I was driving down the road when my car (02 GTI 12v VR6) suddenly died. I pulled off and tried to restart it. It sounded weird, kind of metallic like maybe the clutch went out. It seemed to be firing, but would not turn over so I stopped trying for fear of damaging something. I thought the timing chain may have come loose, however I didn't hear anything catastrophic like valves breaking so if that's the case then hopefully it only jumped a tooth or two. I scanned it and a bunch of codes came back. I did have the battery out for a while before scanning so I'm not sure if some of the Central Convenience codes are due to that or not.
Here's the full scan:
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
[Code] .....