Ford Crown Victoria :: AC / Heater Blow Room Temp Only
Aug 14, 2015
I have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
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Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
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It worked fine and then just stopped blowing on any speed. The #303 relay was swapped with another and made no difference. The #101 40 amp fuse checks good. The blower fuse under the dash checks good too. The actuator moves the flapper door as it should.I suppose it could be the switch, but that requires some dismantlement of the dash. When a blower relay goes bad, it will usually allow (in fact cause) the blower to go only on high If it doesn't blow at all, can that still be the cause?
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I have a 2003 Ford crown Victoria with 137,000km (85,000 miles) which is in good condition overall. It runs well in the city and highway with few problems. I have noticed 1 issue with this car that is consistent. When it is snowing and below freezing it will hesitate occasionally on the highway at speeds over 45 mph. It does not put out any codes. I have sprayed the ignition wires with no change. I have not changed any ignition parts. I did over 500 miles on the highway this weekend in moderate rain with no trouble at all at temperatures around freezing. Today was snowing and below freezing with same problem on highway with occasional hesitation. In the city today with traction problems and tires spinning the ABS and Brake light came on. They were out when I drove it home.
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I have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
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My husband and I bought a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria not too long ago. We have already had to replace the brake lines 2 times (well, first the front and then a few weeks later the back). It has had nothing but problems. One thing is the air conditioner, but that probably just needs charged.
Now on to the bigger problems. All of a sudden we started having unintended acceleration. It is strong enough that if you don't have the brake pressed hard it will move your car forward every 5 seconds. The engine revs up on its own. This happens every time we stop anywhere. Including when I was pulling into a parking spot last night. I went very slow and as I was turning pressing on the brake it revved up and I thought for sure the way it jerked, it was going to go over the curb into the road. This scares the crap out of me.
Also, we have a problem with the slow (very slow) start. I know they had a recall on the cruise control, but I have not heard of any recalls on this. However, I did read somewhere about accidents happening due to this and something about it had to do with the way Ford build the car.
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100,000 miles new fuel pump three months ago all filters changed, new spark plugs and coils. Parked car for the evening next morning would crank no start. It would start when the fuel pump primed, now the fuel pump does not prime, I get no check engine light in the on position and no check engine light when car is cranking.
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I was driving home and i turned off my car as soon as i put it in park. Came back down two minutes later and it wont turn over or try to start. It makes a weird low clicking sound once the keys are taken out of the ignition.
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I have a 1998 Crown Vic Lx with 66,000 miles on it. We bought the car about 2 years ago and at that time it had only 32,000 original miles and looked like it had just rolled off the showroom floor. The car was well maintained and we have kept it that way. Over the last few months we have started to have a problem with the engine surging at idle when the Heating/air controls are in use. It's like the engine tries to die and then comes back up and it happens about every 5 seconds. It stops when the control is cut off. The fan speed control has no effect,just the main control.
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99 crown Vic windshield wipers only works on high. What could cause this?
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I have a 96' Interceptor. Recently, it feels like the back tires are sticking/skipping when I take off. I haven't noticed it doing that when I have it in reverse though. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable and other times it's fairly violent. I think it gets worse the more stops I make but I've parked it for now so there is no way to test that theory.
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When I was a mechanic in the 1980's it was easy to disable a car's ignition to do starter crank or compression tests, just pull the distributor lead wire in the center of the dist. cap.
I have a 2000 vintage 4.6 engine and was wondering the easy way to knock out the ignition to do crank tests, etc. This engine has all the modules resting independently on each spark plug, so no central distributor cap to get to. Is there an easy way, and does it work for Chrysler and GM cars too?
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I have 95 Crown Victoria and every time it rains water leaks into the back seat so I checked the condencer drain and it was not clogged ...
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I have just purchased a 2009 Ford Crown Vic Interceptor a few weeks ago. One of the few things I would like to fix is the rear doors. I want to have people in the back have the ability to roll down their own windows and open their own doors. I have plugged the wires, that were in the armrest back into the button but still doesn't work. I am assuming the fuse might also be missing from the fuse box but I have not looked yet and when looking through the owners manual I could figure out which fuse it would have been or its place.
The other issue with the doors is people getting out on their own rather than me feeling like their limo driver or something... Iss there a kit I can buy to get the doors in full working order? If I take it into a ford dealership will/can they fix it?
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The A/C does not work, only room-temp air comes out, essentially. The mechanic also said it sounded a little too loud. He says the condenser has a leak. My question is, is this system NEEDED for the other prous parts to function correctly, or can I just roll my windows down and enjoy the breeze?
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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2000 f150 heater only got warm.
Flushed system, new thermostat, new coolant. Then NO warm air. A/C blows cold. Checked heater blend door and actuator both intact and working. Heater core not leaking, system holds pressure and doesn't leak.
Is there another automatic valve that could be shutting off flow to heater core?????
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Does the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
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I have a 97 E-150 with factory air (vin L) the heat/cool quit working just before summer it quit blowing cold. The old man took it to some mechanic (i hate when he does that) and he fixed it so there was air only saying he had a choice of cold or hot (being summer in the desert he chose cold). Now that it is cold and we are traveling where defrost is needed, I need heat!!! I went to the Ford dealer and picked up a new potentiometer and that did not fix the problem. whenever the unit is on the a/c compressor kicks on........ Is this electrical or vacuum and where might i find the problem?
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I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
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To kick off the coldest week (so far) of the winter season, I noticed a problem with the heater controls in my 06 Explorer with manual temp. controls. No matter which fan settings I select (defrost, panel+floor, etc), air does not blow through some of the vents. I can hear the fan working and air flows through the defrost vents and through the floor vents, but the there is no airflow through the vents below radio and round vents on the far left and far right sides of the dashboard.
Perhaps related to this problem, a couple months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor because fan speeds 1 and 2 did not work, only 3 and 4 worked, so whenever I would turn on the heat or A/C, it was on full blast all the time. After replacing the resistor, the issue was resolved and all of the speeds worked well. I guess I just never realized the issue with the vents, or maybe the problem happened because I replaced the resistor?
Since I'm not too knowledgeable with the climate control circuit, I'm not too sure where to begin, perhaps the switch or blower motor?
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