I have a 1988 full size Ford Bronco that when I start it the motor keeps turning over even when I turn the key off. I installed a new solenoid thinking that would do the trick and it worked correctly the first time, but the second time it kept turning over until I unhooked the battery. What is the problem? Is it the ignition key?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1988 FORD BRONCO, full size, that has a peculiar problem. I tried starting the car and it turned over, but when I tried shutting it off it kept turning over. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I replaced the solenoid being careful to route the wiring connections the same way. I tried starting it and it shut off using the key switch the first time, but when I tried starting it again it wouldn't shut off so I had to disconnect the battery. What might be the problem? The ignition switch??
View 3 RepliesI've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
I have a 1988 ford ranger and my headlights won't turn on all my fuses are fine but no headlights! All the other lights work fine blinkers, parking, brake ,and tail lights! What do I need to look for????
View 14 RepliesI have an 88 ranger with the 2.9l. The headlights work and the markers do to. The brights don't though. and also none of the turn signals work, the brake lights work though but i don't think the reverse do, I can't see them. Do the turn signals and brights share a fuse on there own? How to diagnose it or what it may be?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1988 Toyota (4 cylinder) Pickup truck, with a very intermittent starting problem, that is driving me crazy. It has had the starting problem for over a year now. Normally is starts easily, within one second with the starter motor, no gas needed, and it starts smoothly.
When it has the problem, I turn key, and I only hear a click, and the dash lights are lit, but no starter motor sound.
Early on I would call for a tow truck, but it usually started when they arrived.
I got angry one time and turned the on and off rapidly, nothing. Meditated for about 10min to calm down. Nope, still angry, so turned the key rapidly again, and the starter motor engaged, but the engine didn't start.
So I did that again and gave it some gas, then a lot of gas. The engine was running very rough, like all cylinders were not firing, then it spews out a huge cloud of blue smoke, and the engine evens out. That's my usual pattern now: turn the key like crazy wait a few minutes or even an hour, and keep trying.
It is usually fine for 2 to 7 days with no problems. But a couple of times it has had the problem twice in the same day. The problem seems to happen most when the engine is cold, or after a short trip. A few times, it has had the problem even after a long trip, when the engine was still hot.
What has been replaced in the last year? In this order: starter motor, battery, hot lead to fuse box, battery terminal clamps and wires, fuel pump, mass air flow (don't know what that is), catalytic converter, and master relay. (OK the master relay probably isn't related because rain water leaked in and dripped on the fuse box in the cab.) (Also it has 133,080 miles, and a rebuilt engine put in 4 years ago.)
After the mass air flow and catalytic converter change, the truck has started with no problems for 3 months. Now the problem is back! Same symptoms.
When they last worked on the truck they did a tune-up and they said the starting problem could have been caused by the starter motor not being lined up properly so it would "jam". That would explain why the starter motor wouldn't go, but it doesn't explain the miss-firing when it does finally start going.
I also notice that after they do some work on the truck, it starts fine for about 2 weeks with no problem. So maybe something is getting wiggled into a happy position when they work on it?
If this is an "electrical" problem, what can be done to find this very intermittent problem? Also, just before the the problem started happening again, I noticed there would sometimes be about a 1/2 sec to 1 sec delay from when I turned the key, to when the starter motor would go.
Attached is an audio file of what it sounds like.
1) starting normal,
2) turning key and only clicks,
3) the rough start after many tries.
when I turn key I should hear fuel pump, I don't. I can jump pump & it will run but it still won't start. I reset inertia switch, switched pumps (new one) still won't start. What next????
View 1 RepliesMy 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
View 2 RepliesA few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
View 3 RepliesThe key to the trunk lock on my 1988 Celica won't turn. I don't have the original key. Could be that I have the valet key. All other locks (ignition, door and dash door work. I will probably get a replacement from the junkyard if I can find a car with a lock and key. Other trunk locks are interchangeable with the celica???
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford Explorer. Starting about 4 months ago I have had intermittent problems with it not wanting to start.When you turn the key the radio and dome lights etc. come on but it is dead silence from the motor.First time it happened we ended up replacing the starter solenoid. Next time we discovered that if you "jump" the 2 posts on the solenoid (using well insulated rubber handled pliers) while turning the ignition it will start every time.Took it to a local, reputable mechanic - he is baffled. They looked at every connection and wire they could think of.It is not the battery or solenoid, as best we can tell. It does not do it all the time. It will ocur, then it will start fine for 2 weeks then happen 3 times in a row, then not happenf for say another week or two.
View 7 RepliesFirst off I'm new to the 6.0 powerstroke that being said, I bought a 07 f350 with 102k miles in VERY good condition and I'm planning on doing the bullet proof on it. But my question is that when I start the truck it will turn over about 5 seconds before it starts up. I've even cycled the glow plugs twice with no difference. If I shut it off after it's warm and start it right back up it'll still turn over for about 3 seconds.
View 14 Replies About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
View 2 RepliesSo three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
View 9 RepliesMy speedometer has shot craps. This started a couple months back by occasionally dropping to zero then raising back to indicated speed. I know this car doesn't have a cable and is all electronic. The problem is that I just moved to Ohio from Arizona and can't find my little (kinda worthless Haynes manual so that I can maybe trace the wiring out and find what drives/affects the speedometer.
I don't think the speedometer it's self has gone bad because when I turn the key off it drops to negative zero which tells me that mechanism is at least still breathing.
What ancilary items I can check/replace to maybe get this thing working again? Where is the ESS? This is an 88 Park avenue
My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Liberty with 43,000 miles which many times in the morning, the car won't start. I hear for just a brief moment the starter motor turn on for less than half a second then turn off. I take the key out and try again. It takes a few times for it to run. I have tried different keys and once it has been started for the day, it usually is not an issue until the next morning.
View 2 RepliesThe drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
View 5 RepliesI bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
View 6 Replies