I'd read that the stock rim is 7 inches, but have not confirmed this. I am wanting to run stock tires (235/75 R15, in this case) on 15" by 8" rims that currently have 32x11.5s on them. Are the rims too wide?
View 6 RepliesNever been on a forum but I've got a 1977 ford f150 with a 400,c6 trans currently with 3.50 gears and 26.5 overall dia tires. if I was to put 34.5 inch tires and 4.56s would it drive like it does now, same speeds and rpms in all three gears and it shouldn't chug more gas than it already does... right?
If im reasking a question post link haven't found one.
My 2012 F250 4x4 tire pressure warning message/warning light it on, I have checked all tire pressures, they seem fine, i s this a common problem and what normally has to be done to fix the issue...
View 14 RepliesI have a 06' Ranger 2WD with General Grabber tires that have about 30,000 miles on them and still show significant tread remaining.
Within the last 2 months, I have experienced excessive tire noise - like I am driving a Humvee or something. Also, when I turned right or left the tires would make even MORE noise - it seemed to be coming from the right front tire mostly. 2 weeks ago I had the tires rotated and the sound seems to have reduced while turning but I still have the howling Humvee noise while driving down the road. There is no vibration coming from the wheel, so I don't think it's a balancing issue. Could it be the bearings?
I also checked the PSI all around and one tire does have a slow leak but I try to keep to topped off.
My 95 F150 2WD. The passenger side wheel is leaning in(top) - toed in? and I am A. concerned that this is unsafe to drive it and B. What is the most likely cause and fix? I was just looking for a starting point.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F250 Light Duty with a 5.4L and 4 wheel drive, 216,000 miles. Last year one of my front tire chains broke and ripped the ABS wire. I have soldered them back together and no longer have the ABS light illuminated in the dash. However, when I apply the brakes at speeds slower than 25 mph, the ABS pulses. Over 25 mph the brakes work as they should until almost stopped and then they pulse.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 F350 that has been throwing the "tire pressure monitor fault” on the dashes info center. Here is where it started. I purchased new wheels, tires and sensors a few weeks ago. I put them on and they were fine on the way home because I assume that the stock ones where still being read (they were in the bed of the truck). Put the old ones in the garage and then while driving to work the next morning I got the message. I tried to reset or “learn” the new sensors that night with no luck. There are two ways to get my truck into learn mode. One uses the hazard flashers then releasing some of the tire pressure until the truck horn beeps. The other method is a series of break pumps and turning the ignition from on to off then using the TPMS tool that apparently comes with the truck.
The truck went into learn mode every time with either method but it would never recognize the new sensors. After attempting everything on the sensors I checked to see if for some reason the trucks actual monitor was in a “fault” mode. Last night I tried relearning the old stock sensors with great luck. They all were recognized… for about 10 minutes. After getting them to work I left the shop I work at and on the way home the "tire pressure monitor fault” came back again. So just in case something had been in sleep mode when I did it I pulled over and reset them once more. Again with great luck… until this morning on the way to work again it went back to fault mode even with the stock wheels still in the bed.
I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
View 1 RepliesWhat would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 Replies1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
View 1 RepliesMy 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
View 1 RepliesIf this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
View 7 Replies