Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Steering Very Sloppy / Front End Wobbly At A Low Speed
Jul 27, 2014
I have a 2002 ford f350 sd crew cab, i have changed the front and rear brakes, since then the steering has gotten sloppy. I was driving around 30-40mph and making a sweeping right turn and the front end was wobbly at a low speed it is fine and on a left turn it is fine. It feels like it is the drivers side tire that is the problem. I have to change the tie rod that is attached to the pitman arm. I don't want to bring it to a shop.
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Truck is an 89 single cab, single rear wheel F350 4x4 with 7.3 non turbo diesel and a c6 trans. not lifted, stock size tires. If you hit just the right bump, regardless of speed, the front end just goes crazy.. tires and wheel shoot violently side to side and its very frightening/dangerous. you can just barely hold the wheel, front end is bouncing and whole truck shakes from such rapid camber change as the contact patch swaps from inside to outside of the tread.
Tie rod end, draglink, steering stabilizer (add on,) shock absorbers (rancho,) and a wheel bearing are all brand new. With each part replaced the shake felt worse (since more of it was transmitted to the steering wheel rather than lost in the sloppy parts) and i took it off the road immediately.
Brand new steering box, put it back on the road, did it again less than a mile away. It rained all day so i haven't jacked the truck up again and really, I am quite sick of this problem.
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As I am coming to a stop it feels as if my front brakes (feels like it is coming from front right of the car) are "wobbly." There is a noticeable unevenness in braking force, it gets stronger than weaker, and as the car comes to a stop (this is with friction brakes applied), the car almost feels like it is hobbling. It's feel is similar to having misaligned brakes on a bicycle wheel.
I have no issues at any other point whilst driving (besides ratcheting clank, also suspected from front right). I still get 50+ MPG, and front pads were at 6 MM as of last service, due in 700 miles for next service. Car is a 2008, currently at 113,000 miles - new tires @ 95K, 4 wheel alignment @ 95K.
Online searches have said there could be a number of culprits: warped rotor, loose rotor, bad bearing, CV joint.
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My 2000 f250 7.3 has pretty sloppy steering and noise in the front end when going over bumps. I have replace the drop links, swap bar bushings, both wheel hubs including new seals and the drag link. The rest of the front end seems to be in good shape. I put it up on jack stands and there is some movement in the front end but it seems to all be in the steering box.
Steering box appears to be original with 220k miles. I went to tighten it and it appears the PO did it at least once already. Is it safe to try tightening it again? Does tightening it increase the risk of failure? I'd like to try tightening it first but not at the risk of losing steering at 65mph with my kids in the truck.
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Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
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On braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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I am trying to adjust the steering box since it is so sloppy. I know there is a set screw with a torque head on top of it but I can't get the nut to loosen. Is there any way to do this. I've drenched it with a product we use called Rusty which is a rust penitrant and a solvent. Works real well to get the rusted screws to loosen but this thing isn't budging!
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I think my steering column bearing is bad up at the top end. I got the steering wheel off and the coil spring wire thing without too much drama, but my Haynes manual stops there, it doesn't tell how to go any deeper into column. How to proceed? Almost forgot, this is a '97 F150....
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I have a 93 f250. Have a few inches of play in the wheel. Any way I can tighting this up?
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My f150 steering appears to be not as smooth as when originally purchased. Only 50k miles. Typically driving at higher speeds and making slight correction turns it appears to bind just slightly then when it does move the truck tends to over steer.
This is an intermittent issue and can be hard to replicate. Best noticeable at highway speeds as the change occurs more quickly. Doesn't show up once you into a turn but instead most noticeable when going from straight to slight turns. No aftermarket changes since new. Happens with or without pulling loads. Again from center of steering position.
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I and a friend are working on a 58 f100 and want to get a "new" or rebuilt steering box. Where do we find one and what is the part number for one?
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I have a 2004 f150 heritage Super Cab Xlt with the 4.6. It has a fabtech 6' suspension lift on it. And 315/75/16 BFG A/T KO tires. I replaced inner and outer tire rod ends. Steering Box and idler arm. Replaced rotors and brake calipers on the front and brakes. Replaced rear rotors and rear brake calipers.
Now to the point. Lets say the road steers to the left. I have to steer the wheel to the right ad left in order to stay within means of the lane and stay straight. If I am driving on a straight road I always have to have my steering wheel held to the right in order to stay straight. So lets say the road starts turning left. I have to keep the steering wheel held to the right then slightly left.
But I can't just steer the wheel left or right. It seems that it has to be a special way of steering the truck. I have had tires rebalanced and many shops have said the truck is within alignment specs. It always seems that the steering wheel has to have a offset. Could something else be wrong with the truck ? frame ? u-joints ? Steering wheel column ?
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Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?
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I just bought my first 79 Bronco knowing the steering had issues. I just replaced the pump but it did not fix the problem.
When running, if I rev the motor a bit I can turn it to the right but the pump growls. When I try to turn it back to the left it is hard, like I do not have a pump at all.
It seems to build pressure when I turn the wheel as as soon as I shut it of it blows the cap off. Am I looking at a new steering box or might it be the lines? Nothing appears to be crimped.
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2000 f250 with v10, got home from work today, then short time later we were going out again and my steering was extremely loose. Basically you could swing the wheel and it spins around. Power steering fluid was empty and I refilled it but still the same problem. Is there possibility that I'm just not using a thick enough power steering fluid?
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