Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Hub Locking - Bang From Front End When Engage 4WD
Jun 29, 2011
I have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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Starting having a problem with the front suspension on my 01 excursion. When you go over a incline I am getting a big bang in the front suspension also when you turn the steering wheel to the middle it has a jerk right before its in the straight position.
I have new wheel bearings and new locking hubs coming, this problem still happens without the hubs in. Could it be a front axle or U joint but it happens with the 4x4 disengaged.
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AC compressor clutch bearings went bad (went AWAY, actually) and the serp. belt snapped. New clutch went on just fine and works great, but after about 20 miles the power steering pump pulley cracked and started spinning on the shaft and the new serp belt jumped half off and ate itself.
So last night I finished putting in a new pump and pulley. Flushed out the lines with new fluid, manually bled the new pump and then followed the bleeding procedure in Haynes carefully. All looks good. Pump spins freely and runs very quiet. No noise or hesitation lock-to-lock. No leaks. Fluid level holds steady right at the half-way mark on the reservoir.
Sitting in my yard it turns smooth and very easy all the way through the whole range.
BUT, out on the street I'm getting very frequent but random lock-up where the wheel doesn't want to turn AT ALL (I'm a big guy and it's HARD to turn)! And then I'll jiggle it a bit and it's smooth as silk again. It's done it while moving fast, moving slow, and standing still. I drove about 30 miles testing it out and it seems completely random when it will lock up, but it did it about six times in half an hour. And when I got home and parked? Perfect, smooth steering.
What could be doing this? Prior to the troubles last week, steering was perfect, so I don't think the steering box is bad. (Could be, of course...).
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I've got a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4 with 200,000. So my rear differential leaks a few drops of fluid every time I drive it, looks like it's coming from the pinion seal. I've just been filling it topping it off with fluid.
Anyway, yesterday I got in it and started driving, I noticed a howling noise, and when I turned my rear tires started locking up. It was like that for about 5 miles until I got home, no matter which way you turned the tires would lock up.
I went under and topped off the differential with fluid again, and I pushed my parking brake in and released it. Got back in the truck and drove, and it was fine. What happened? I'm just worried it will happen again if I don't look more into it.
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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I am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
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My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
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On braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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I have an 05 F 250 super duty with the Triton in it. When I shift either into overdrive or reverse the transmission hesitates (does not go into either gear for about 5 to 10 seconds). After that it engages and it's fine. It does not appear to be slipping or acting up regardless of temperature or speed. Sometimes it will sort of engage and than bang into gear solid. I do not have any check engine lights. Not sure if the PCM has any codes. So I'm trying to figure out if I need to have a complete rebuild or if I have a valve / solenoid body problem Where do I start?
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What would cause this? The brakes work fine until you get into that range of brake pressure in which the abs wants to kick in. The brakes then lock up(may be only front driver), the pedal sinks to the floor, and don't disengage until the car is at a complete stop. It does this with esp on or off.
The previous owner changed a front wheel sensor and bled the brakes. The abs module fuse under the battery cover was melted but not blown.
VCDS shows no codes. I did not do output test on pump, didn't have my laptop with me.
Abs pump bad?
Mc?
Servo?
Caliper?
Brake line?
I bought this car 2 weeks ago and the previous owner failed to let me know about the problem and it happened to me a mile down the road after purchasing the car. I started to notice a lot more because of the rain and snow recently. It's definitely an uneasy feeling. I really don't wanna drive the car till it's sorted.
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I have had a clunk in the front end that started out as a light clunk that was sometimes noticeable. It has now turned into a clunk that can be heard very often. It sounds like a hollow clunk. I'll try to explain it so it makes sense...If I'm going over a bump or speed bump or something like that it doesn't really do it noticeably. If I'm driving a get to a place where the road is uneven or there is a hole or pothole and the front end seems to "fall into the hole", then the sound is very audible, and I can feel it slightly in the steering wheel and under my feet in the drivers floorboard. So, I've had the front end checked out 4 times and between what they said to do and what I've read on here...here is what I've done so far......
Changed end links with moog end links
Changed sway bar bushings with moog bushings
Undid the bushing mounts from the front frame and wired the sway bar up to keep from flopping around. No change in sounds
Didn't get rid of the clunk....
Had front end shop check out truck... They said ball joints were ok, no play in them. They did say that they could feel some "clicking in the pitman arm pivot" when turning the wheel. Like something was loose in box.
I've changed shocks and bearings.
I can grab a hold of the passenger outer tie rod at the adjustment sleeve and rotate the tir rod and it will rotate around in the socket and hitting on the insertion point and make a metal thud sound.
Again, took into shop and they said that would be normal b/c the tie rods have to have that to keep from binding up in front end.
My thinking is that if the tie rod rotates that much, then it is rotating the drag link which in turn puts stress on the pitman arm which in turn has either broken or sheared the pinion shaft inside the box and then when I go over a hole, it moves and all of the above is put into motion.
Shop (Ford) basically called me an idiot and that wouldn't be the cause.
So, now onto my thoughts and questions....
Radius arm bushings
Axle bushings (????? how many and where are they all located)
tie rods and drag links..
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I am lowering the front end of my truck 3" using DJM Dream Beams. I have cut out the rear springs and replaced them with a four link lowering it 4" and installing an air bag suspension. I would like to run air bags up front, as well, but haven't been able to find much about that. What size to use?
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I've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
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I have dual fabtech shocks in the front with 10" lift. I want to switch to all icon shocks. I think just the monotube, or are the remote reservoir going to ride a lot better? Would I be better off going back to single shocks in the front or keeping duals?
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