I am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
View 5 Replies2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
View 4 RepliesMy dad is having problems with his truck, brake pedal goes all the way to the floor even after bleeding all the brakes and the master cylinder. The wheel cylinder didn't have clips in it and he fixed it and it hasnt changed. What do we do? Its a 1993 f150 4.9l.....
View 4 RepliesI did a complete rebuild of my brake system in April. Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, hoses, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, proportioner valve and flushed all the lines and refilled with synthetic fluid. I have made five trips from Southern California to Idaho hauling home furnishings, one trip to Oregon and one trip to Northern California since overhauling the brakes with everything working great. Now something strange is happening. The brake pedal goes to the floor with very little resistance. It isn't spongy like there is air in the lines. It just goes to the floor if you push it all the way down.
The truck stops ok but it is really scary with the pedal going down like that. You can feel when the rear brakes come on because there is a little resistance in the pedal when they come on. You can actually lock the rear brakes up and skid the rear tires. If you push the pedal down further the front brakes start coming on and if you push all the way to the floor the truck will nosedive and you will get planted in the windshield.
I wonder if the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard proportioner valve is blowing all the pressure to the rear wheels because it won't do it if you take the vacuum off of the vacuum booster. You have full pedal when the booster is deactivated and all the wheels operate normally with the exception of having to plant both feet on the pedal to stop it.
My buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
View 7 Replies1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cylinder need rebuilding or is my vacuum diaphragm going. Not sure that's what its called.
View 7 Replies1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cyclinder need rebuilding or is my vacume diaphragm going. Not sure thats what its called.
View 14 RepliesWhen depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
View 1 RepliesBrake pedal to the floor... And a lot of fluid on the ground.
I was coming home (empty fortunately) last evening when I noticed the brake pedal give an initial resistance, then slowly sank all the way to the floorboard when slowing down to turn onto my street. When I got to the house, I noticed a hissing sound each time as the depressed brake pedal sank to the floor. When I got out, there was a lot of brake fluid on the ground on the left rear side. It appears to be between the fuel tank and frame rail. From the side it is the section between the fuel filler to just ahead of the left rear wheel. The tank and frame rail is drenched and dripping DOT 3.
I am lucky to not have been pulling my 5th wheel when this happened! However, I have a camping trip coming up in a few weeks, but now my TV is broken. What has happened, and an estimate for repairs? Where is the best place to have it fixed, dealer or specialty shop? I just bought this vehicle in January and it has 102,500 miles, and came complete with full and meticulous repair records. The P.O. was incredible at upkeep, so this is something curious and flukey to me. But do I need to worry about the other side now, too?
yesterday i gave the 02 diesel a treat, 3 new calipers 4 new rotors, and semimetalic pads. the reason for only 3 calipers is the driver side was just replaced 2 months ago after it locked the wheel up on me. both rears were seized so i only had front brakes, and the passenger side front was leaking.
anyway, all new parts and the pedal is fantastic, besides the truck stopping again. this afternoon on the way home from the shop i stopped at a red light. breaks are rock solid. then all of a sudden, the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. but the brakes still hold. i get home and test them. again, pedal slowly sinks to the floor, but they hold. i am thinking still some air in the system, and park hte truck, with the intention of bleeding them again tomorrow.
i get out and see fluid all over the driveway. great. something in the front of the axle is leaking. the frame is drenched. whatever it is, is in front of the frame, on the engine side. what is in there, the ABS unit?
My problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
View 6 RepliesThe problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
View 14 RepliesMy brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
View 9 RepliesI recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?
2005 F-250 6.0 4x4. After about 50,000 miles on my original brakes, they started to make a squealing noise when applying moderate brake pressure and slowing down around 30mph-0mph. It only happens after Ive driven the truck about 30 mins. It must be warmed up. After 100,000 I decided to change the brakes.....they had plenty of life left on them, but I changed them anyway. I put on new rotors and pads and calipers in the front because one was hanging.
After about 10,000 miles, the exact same squeal has returned. With the windows down, its loud enough to physically hurt your ears if you are next to a car and the sound can bounce back into the cab. It sounds terrible. I thought it was the front brakes, so I took them apart this weekend to put in some Disc Brake Quiet. They pads look great, plenty left, the rotors look great, no grooves. Everything is tight. I relubed pins and brackets and clips. Today...same squeal still. I am at a complete loss here. It is some sort of harmonic squeal and the only thing I can figure is that the rears are the culprit. I have a drivers rear caliper that will hang and stick if you drive it really hard, so I am considering replacing the rear calipers too and do the disc brake quiet treatment there as well. Im not confident this will solve the problem.
Like I said, its so loud you can't drive with the windows down. Its a piercing squeal. Is there anything else that I can check? I can't imagine others don't do this. Its so loud and pronounced that it must be some sort of design flaw or something.
I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
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