My 2012 F250 4x4 tire pressure warning message/warning light it on, I have checked all tire pressures, they seem fine, i s this a common problem and what normally has to be done to fix the issue...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 F350 that has been throwing the "tire pressure monitor fault” on the dashes info center. Here is where it started. I purchased new wheels, tires and sensors a few weeks ago. I put them on and they were fine on the way home because I assume that the stock ones where still being read (they were in the bed of the truck). Put the old ones in the garage and then while driving to work the next morning I got the message. I tried to reset or “learn” the new sensors that night with no luck. There are two ways to get my truck into learn mode. One uses the hazard flashers then releasing some of the tire pressure until the truck horn beeps. The other method is a series of break pumps and turning the ignition from on to off then using the TPMS tool that apparently comes with the truck.
The truck went into learn mode every time with either method but it would never recognize the new sensors. After attempting everything on the sensors I checked to see if for some reason the trucks actual monitor was in a “fault” mode. Last night I tried relearning the old stock sensors with great luck. They all were recognized… for about 10 minutes. After getting them to work I left the shop I work at and on the way home the "tire pressure monitor fault” came back again. So just in case something had been in sleep mode when I did it I pulled over and reset them once more. Again with great luck… until this morning on the way to work again it went back to fault mode even with the stock wheels still in the bed.
I have a 1997 F250 Light Duty with a 5.4L and 4 wheel drive, 216,000 miles. Last year one of my front tire chains broke and ripped the ABS wire. I have soldered them back together and no longer have the ABS light illuminated in the dash. However, when I apply the brakes at speeds slower than 25 mph, the ABS pulses. Over 25 mph the brakes work as they should until almost stopped and then they pulse.
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a 2012 Toyota Camry SE, 4-cyl, with the touch screen that indicates tire pressure. However, the indicators simply show a row of tires, not matching them to wheel locations. I looked it up in the manual and it was silent on this question. What is the "order" assigned to this single row of four tires? Seems odd that the manufacturer would go this far but not label or "map" the tires.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
A few days ago, the light for the Tire pressure monitor lit up in the dash. I got the car with nitrogen in the tires so I'm assuming that i have to take this back to the dealer to check the tire pressure and reset the indicator in the dash? How sensitive is this tire pressure monitor?
View 7 RepliesSo during my lunch break (I work 3rd shift, so "lunch" was at 4:00AM) I started my car only to notice that the tire pressure indicator light pop on. I got out and checked all of my tires and they all looked good.
However, it's the coldest it's been since I've gotten the car (~45 degrees). This light come on during cold weather? Makes sense that the air in the tires is contracting due to the cold weather, but it also seems like the air in the tires should expand as the car is driven, thus eliminating the pressure light, but it didn't.
Light came on a few days ago and I just inflated them to spec. 3 were around 30psi while one was down to 29. Indicator is still on when I start up the car. Did a search and one mentioned that driving approx 15mi it will turn off. Others say a button in the glove box will reset it. I looked and do not see one. Car is 09 passat. Hoping it shuts off on my drive to work ~20mi. If not how do is reset? I read owners manual and did not see anything about pushing a reset button or anything.
View 21 Repliesthe indicator light is on because of the cold morning. All four tires are a few pounds low and I correct.
Back inside the vehicle, the indicator is still on! I get out to check the spare but, cannot because the valve stem is on top! And, my shirt is all dirty!
At home, I lower the spare and check/add air. Raise spare, put tools away. Now I know how to lower the spare.
Our basic Chevy vans at work let you know tire pressure in each of their four tires.
I just bought a 2006 gx that has been lifted about 3" with old man emo springs. The ride height adjustment was removed and the adjustable shocks replaced with a larger non adjustable model.
The rims and tires were also replaced. I think the rims are 21" and the tires 33". The running boards were also removed and the wheel wells opened up a little.
The tire pressure indicator light is on all the time as the new rims and rubber don't link up to the sensor. This I can live with.
I tried it out today on a dirt road (Ophir Pass, Colorado) It worked great but about 200 yards in the check engine, and all three ride/safety system warning lights came on. (stability and slip sensors).
The car performed flawlessly, but the lights remained on even after I got to pavement. I did stop and check, oil, temp, coolant, etc when they came on and all seem to be fine.
I suspect it has something to do with either the oversized tires or the disconnected shock and height systems. How to get the lights to turn off?
My Tire pressure indicator light starts FLASHING after driving for 15-30 minutes. It does not stay on but continues to flash every 3 seconds. I stop to check tire pressure and my tires are fine. After a couple weeks of this, I took it to the Subaru Service who checked the tire pressure indicators and it said all 4 of them were bad. They reset them versus replacing them and 20 minutes after I left the subaru service center, the flashing started again.
Subaru says that it is unusual for all 4 to be back at the same exact time and recalibrating them should have fixed it. Now they would like to replace each of them for about $150 parts&labor EACH. That seems crazy. Is there something else wrong? Something else they can fix? Is this a legitimate repair? My subaru is the Limited LL Bean version, 6 cylinder, has 60K miles on it and is in top condition. Had new tires put on 10,000 miles ago.
I just bought a 2008 Highlander. I'm thrilled with the quality of the vehicle so far. This model has a tire pressure monitor system which I can't seem to reset. I've set the pressure in all tires at 34psi and 44 for the spare, and the indicator light will not go out. I press the reset button and the indicator light never blinks to indicate that a reset is in progress.
View 29 RepliesI bought a new IS 250 F-sport 2 weeks ago and the tire indicator drives me crazy. The low tire pressure light on twice in a week. I added up to 36pis (Recommended Pressure) and all tires went down after a few days. I went back to Lexus today for tire pressure. Every tire is okay but tire pressure is low only. Btw, my gas indicator did not rise up after I filled gas. The indicator started to rise up after I drove about 2 miles. Is that normal for a new car?
View 11 Replies 92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
I just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
View 6 RepliesSo lets see if I can put my issue into writing....
Have an 02 f250 v10, last summer replaced the steering gear box, havent had any issues til this spring.
Beginning of spring my ABS light came on during casual driving, wasn't to worried as the rear sensor often gets dirty and needs cleaned- cleaned the sensor and the light remained on this time.
While driving (and the light being on) I would at random get a very heavy vibration/shake from the front end and if I apply the brakes while that was happening the truck would pull real hard to the right, the shaking feels like a death rattle- like the ABS was firing and was using steroids, then it would go away. (the brakes would occasionally smoke a bit on the left front side afterwords)
So like that problem wasn't annoying enough, while trying to diagnose the problem the ABS light clicked off, and I wasn't able to recreate the vibration, but I noticed when I would apply the brakes, at say a stop sign, the brake would press in another inch or so (after already being stopped) and then I could hear a loud whine from under the hood.
The fun is these 2 problems seem to keep swapping positions- and I am at a loss of what could potentially be the cause- (I assumed the 2nd problem where after stopping the break pedal going soft another inch and the whine could of been air in the system- I bled the brakes and no change)...
Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
View 14 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose thoroughly my braking problems before I start throwing money and time at replacing good parts needlessly. My braking system is on a 1971 f-250 4x4 with a swapped in front and rear 1979 dana 60's. Disc front, drum rears. Brake lines are in excellent shape, with no visible leaks along lines or at fittings. The individual rubber flex hoses at each corners are also sound with no leaks or bulging. Rear cylinders and front brakes are also dry. Master cylinder reservoir leaks a little out the seal under the lid, no big deal I have just kept an eye on it. Topped up front bowl from half the other day. Front pads and rear shoes are fine upon inspection. Brakes are in excellent working order.....when they work!*
So here are the symptoms: When driving, if I step on the brakes, the truck coasts to a stop and pedal goes to floor. However if I pump the brakes 3-5 times, pressure builds up and truck stops great. Than after driving again for even a few seconds that pressure is lost. When truck is parked and off, if I pump the brakes, the system builds pressure and the pedal is firm, when I start it up, the pedal pushes to the floor, turn it off and pedal is firm again.
I mean, I can force it down but I refrain. Are my rear brakes adjusted you ask? That was my first thought since for the past month my pedal travel had been increasing. I adjusted them when I was done inspecting them. I put drums on first, than adjusted both left and right simultaneously(posi rear) until drums would not move, than backed them off a little till I could rotate them with pressure. I have yet to open the system up yet or bleed it. Air in the system seems to be the old go to, but I want to be sure that is the problem as these symptoms exist, before I risk potentially screwing something else up.
Even in my research I have gone down a hundred rabbit holes and found all kinds of people who have done the same. Could this be the master cylinder? Another popular culprit. Could it have an internal leak? I have eliminated the brake booster as the problem because it is dry and when I pull the vacuum hose the brake pedal gets hard. I have an aftermarket ssbc combination proportioning valve on the inside of my frame rail, Could the problem be here? Could the fact that it is extreme cold here lately affect that? Could water and road salt get in it and freeze. Last week I went through some ice into deep water, and the brake travel worsened a couple days after that.
It was cold this morning, about 34 degrees F. I get in my car and notice that TPMS light. Its still dark, and I'm running late to work, so I just walk around and do a cursory glance at all my tires with my lighter, they don't seem to be low. So I think maybe its because of the cold, but the light never came off after my 25 minute commute to work. I get out of my car, look around the tires, they look okay. I'll check the pressure after I get out of work.
View 15 Replieswhats the limit for low tire pressure light (tpms light) to turn on in 2015+ camrys. My tpms light turned on, on a cold morning, few days ago, tire pressure was 28 psi that day. Now my tire pressure raise upto 30 in all tires by it self due to warm weather, but light is still on.
View 3 RepliesHow do you reset the tire pressure sensor 2013 Camry. Could find the reset button.
View 5 Replies