Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2011 - Steering Not Smooth Intermittently?
Nov 15, 2016
My f150 steering appears to be not as smooth as when originally purchased. Only 50k miles. Typically driving at higher speeds and making slight correction turns it appears to bind just slightly then when it does move the truck tends to over steer.
This is an intermittent issue and can be hard to replicate. Best noticeable at highway speeds as the change occurs more quickly. Doesn't show up once you into a turn but instead most noticeable when going from straight to slight turns. No aftermarket changes since new. Happens with or without pulling loads. Again from center of steering position.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
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Have 2005 excursion. Just did ball joints , wheel bearings all of them, axle joints and seals.Also warn manual hubs. Have a intermittent scraping grinding noise sounds like driver but could be both front.4wd works fine in high or low, no vibration just this annoying noise. took brakes apart and no funny wear or foreign object in dust shield.
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Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
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2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
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I am trying to adjust the steering box since it is so sloppy. I know there is a set screw with a torque head on top of it but I can't get the nut to loosen. Is there any way to do this. I've drenched it with a product we use called Rusty which is a rust penitrant and a solvent. Works real well to get the rusted screws to loosen but this thing isn't budging!
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I think my steering column bearing is bad up at the top end. I got the steering wheel off and the coil spring wire thing without too much drama, but my Haynes manual stops there, it doesn't tell how to go any deeper into column. How to proceed? Almost forgot, this is a '97 F150....
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I have a 93 f250. Have a few inches of play in the wheel. Any way I can tighting this up?
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I and a friend are working on a 58 f100 and want to get a "new" or rebuilt steering box. Where do we find one and what is the part number for one?
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Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?
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I have a 2002 ford f350 sd crew cab, i have changed the front and rear brakes, since then the steering has gotten sloppy. I was driving around 30-40mph and making a sweeping right turn and the front end was wobbly at a low speed it is fine and on a left turn it is fine. It feels like it is the drivers side tire that is the problem. I have to change the tie rod that is attached to the pitman arm. I don't want to bring it to a shop.
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I just bought my first 79 Bronco knowing the steering had issues. I just replaced the pump but it did not fix the problem.
When running, if I rev the motor a bit I can turn it to the right but the pump growls. When I try to turn it back to the left it is hard, like I do not have a pump at all.
It seems to build pressure when I turn the wheel as as soon as I shut it of it blows the cap off. Am I looking at a new steering box or might it be the lines? Nothing appears to be crimped.
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2000 f250 with v10, got home from work today, then short time later we were going out again and my steering was extremely loose. Basically you could swing the wheel and it spins around. Power steering fluid was empty and I refilled it but still the same problem. Is there possibility that I'm just not using a thick enough power steering fluid?
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AC compressor clutch bearings went bad (went AWAY, actually) and the serp. belt snapped. New clutch went on just fine and works great, but after about 20 miles the power steering pump pulley cracked and started spinning on the shaft and the new serp belt jumped half off and ate itself.
So last night I finished putting in a new pump and pulley. Flushed out the lines with new fluid, manually bled the new pump and then followed the bleeding procedure in Haynes carefully. All looks good. Pump spins freely and runs very quiet. No noise or hesitation lock-to-lock. No leaks. Fluid level holds steady right at the half-way mark on the reservoir.
Sitting in my yard it turns smooth and very easy all the way through the whole range.
BUT, out on the street I'm getting very frequent but random lock-up where the wheel doesn't want to turn AT ALL (I'm a big guy and it's HARD to turn)! And then I'll jiggle it a bit and it's smooth as silk again. It's done it while moving fast, moving slow, and standing still. I drove about 30 miles testing it out and it seems completely random when it will lock up, but it did it about six times in half an hour. And when I got home and parked? Perfect, smooth steering.
What could be doing this? Prior to the troubles last week, steering was perfect, so I don't think the steering box is bad. (Could be, of course...).
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I am trying to use a ford pump to power a Hydro-boost off a diesel pickup, took everything off same truck. Started it up, ran ok for 5 mins & PS pump fluid boils. No PS box in the system, just the Hydro. Seems like the fluid is not getting out of the pump & circulating either. I figure a blocked pump discharge or blockage in the Hydro. I can shoot air backwards thru the hydro, too hot to touch the pressure side. I had the outlet nut off the pump, could I have blocked the discharge when I put it back?
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I have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
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Truck is an 89 single cab, single rear wheel F350 4x4 with 7.3 non turbo diesel and a c6 trans. not lifted, stock size tires. If you hit just the right bump, regardless of speed, the front end just goes crazy.. tires and wheel shoot violently side to side and its very frightening/dangerous. you can just barely hold the wheel, front end is bouncing and whole truck shakes from such rapid camber change as the contact patch swaps from inside to outside of the tread.
Tie rod end, draglink, steering stabilizer (add on,) shock absorbers (rancho,) and a wheel bearing are all brand new. With each part replaced the shake felt worse (since more of it was transmitted to the steering wheel rather than lost in the sloppy parts) and i took it off the road immediately.
Brand new steering box, put it back on the road, did it again less than a mile away. It rained all day so i haven't jacked the truck up again and really, I am quite sick of this problem.
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I'd like to convert my power steering to manual. I've done this to my Mustang, but never a vehicle this long and heavy. Looking for impressions of the results. Also, any special tools that may be required for the swap.
My truck is a 1987 F-150 4x2 extended-cab long-bed with a 351w and C6.
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I have a 74 f100 4x4 with manual steering I would like to convert it over to power steering but every power gear box I have found the holes are in a different spot than the manual box is there anything out there that will match up or will I have to weld a plate on and drill new holes...
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My 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
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