Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2010 F250 - Steering Wheel Gradually Works Itself Off-Center
Aug 22, 2016
I have a 2010 F250 King Ranch FX4. I have an odd problem that I am trying to get to the bottom of. We went on a 2,500 mile road trip last year and I noticed on the way home my steering wheel had worked it's way off center counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal. I had gotten an alignment right before we left and it was perfect center at that point.
I took it back in when I got home and had a tire rotation and another alignment. Within a week the wheel was off again to the same degree, counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal.
Two weeks ago... tired and annoyed of driving like this, I crawled under the truck and adjusted the steering wheel to center via the drag link adjustment. I tightened everything down tight and this lasted all of three days.
Wat would cause this? Tires are wearing normally, alignment checks out and it tracks straight. I do see some grease like leakage where the pitman arm meets the top of the drag link and again have some small grease where the drag link connect to the passenger side tire. I lifted the front end and tried to move/wiggle the tires and I have no movement... everything is solid. The truck never wanders when on the road... steering wheel is just off.
Truck only has 90k on it of highway miles and an easy life thus far. I am not hard on the truck.
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I have a 1991 F250 Lariat, 4x4, 460 engine, auto trans. I am having trouble with my steering. The power stering turns good to the left but when I turn to the right it is like there is no power and is very tough to turn.
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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I have new wheel bearings and new locking hubs coming, this problem still happens without the hubs in. Could it be a front axle or U joint but it happens with the 4x4 disengaged.
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I have a 2010 F350 that has been throwing the "tire pressure monitor fault” on the dashes info center. Here is where it started. I purchased new wheels, tires and sensors a few weeks ago. I put them on and they were fine on the way home because I assume that the stock ones where still being read (they were in the bed of the truck). Put the old ones in the garage and then while driving to work the next morning I got the message. I tried to reset or “learn” the new sensors that night with no luck. There are two ways to get my truck into learn mode. One uses the hazard flashers then releasing some of the tire pressure until the truck horn beeps. The other method is a series of break pumps and turning the ignition from on to off then using the TPMS tool that apparently comes with the truck.
The truck went into learn mode every time with either method but it would never recognize the new sensors. After attempting everything on the sensors I checked to see if for some reason the trucks actual monitor was in a “fault” mode. Last night I tried relearning the old stock sensors with great luck. They all were recognized… for about 10 minutes. After getting them to work I left the shop I work at and on the way home the "tire pressure monitor fault” came back again. So just in case something had been in sleep mode when I did it I pulled over and reset them once more. Again with great luck… until this morning on the way to work again it went back to fault mode even with the stock wheels still in the bed.
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Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?
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2000 f250 with v10, got home from work today, then short time later we were going out again and my steering was extremely loose. Basically you could swing the wheel and it spins around. Power steering fluid was empty and I refilled it but still the same problem. Is there possibility that I'm just not using a thick enough power steering fluid?
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Kind of like if you were turning a shaft in a seal and it rubbed or was rough. It makes a faint, muffled, barely audible grinding noise or feel. I have a lift and level of about 4" and 285s for years. This just started in the last 5 months or so.
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13.5k, 2.2 Ecotec, Automatic
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This morning I noticed the steering wheel is off center (~1/2 to 3/4") to the right. The car tracks straight with no pull to either side.
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The car tracks straight. When I let go of the wheel the car goes dead straight but...the steering wheel is a bit off center turn slightly to the left. If I hold the wheel and turn the steering wheel right to exactly straight the car will go right. It's like they they aligned the car with the steering wheel slightly off center.
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After my steering wheel replaced I've noticed that new wheel is not centered. I was way too much to the right when driving straight, so I went back to dealer and ask him to fix it. He said that he fixed it and even recalibrated steering wheel (or something) and should be OK. So here is my question. The wheel is now a bit to much to the left (see picture). Do you think it is acceptable (within the specs) and it cannot be adjusted better? Should I go back and complain or I am just to much paranoiac.
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I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
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2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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