Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2007 Expedition - Rear Rotor Removal
Aug 11, 2009
I need to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 Expedition and was going to turn the rotors also. It appears the rotor is held onto the axle by a large nut and not having done any brake jobs in several years, I've never run into a rear rotor that's bolted on. Is this the case and if so, what size socket do I need to get it off. Also, I was curious if there is anything else I need to know before I dive in. I heard it was difficult to get off.
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I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
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My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
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Trying to figure this out...no luck yet.
I have a 2001 Expedition (5.4L V8). The ABS light has been on for some time. I finally got around to reading the code, and it reported "B1185 - Antilock Brake System Power Relay Output Circuit Malfunction". I have read and found information on the C1185 code, which sounds similar, but very little on the B1185. Not sure what to try.
What I have done thus far is replace the rear ABS sensor that is located on the rear differential. No change. I also replaced all four rotors and pads, but that was due to a pulsing during braking caused by a warped rotor. The pulsing was cured after replacing the rotors, but the ABS light remained unchanged. I removed both front wheel ABS sensors, and thoroughly cleaned them with brake-parts cleaner. Still no change. I have checked the fuse under that dash for the ABS system, and it is fine.
What to try next? I really didn't want to just start blindly shotgunning parts because I don't understand what B1185 really means. Perhaps someone else has seen this on their truck/expedition?
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I changed over to summer tires today on my 1999 4wd F350 diesel . While the front tires were off of the ground, I tried rotating the wheels by hand to see what the resistance was like. I was surprised at how stiff they were. It would take three fingers to rotate the wheel and as soon as I stopped applying pressure the wheel stopped turning. I pulled the rims off and found that the calipers appeared to be contacting the rotors and causing resistance.
My last rig was a 1960s 4wd F250 that had calipers that could be adjusted manually. I kept these adjusted so the calipers were almost touching the rotors. I could spin the rims with one finger and the wheel would turn for 30 seconds or so until coming to a stop. Is this normal?
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How do you remove the front and rear rotors, Any DIY's out there I didn't see.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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Went and got new tires on the supercrew. Went going through parking lots or simply driving i hear a loud squeal like brake pad squeal. I put brand new wagner ceramics on the truck. Also if i turn to the left the driver side rear sounds like brakes are dragging against the rotor. Whats goin on with this. The squeal will happen between 10 mph to 20 mph and the grinding noise will happen if I am cruising or turning to the left. It goes away when i apply the brakes.
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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My rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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How should the front rotors look for a 2000 2WD Excursion:
Photo #1 - With Studs:
OR
Photo #2 - Without Studs:
When I do searches online for parts, I get both kind.
Also, if with studs, do you have to remove the hub and cotter pin to remove the rotor?
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I am trying to remove the rear rotor of a 2007 Camry, but it appears to be stuck on the parking brake. The parking brake is not engaged, but the pads are firmly pressed against the rotor (rotor was loosen from hub assembly using bolts through the two threaded holes).
I have removed the rubber plug and attempted to turn the star adjuster, but it doesn't seem to move in either direction. Also, the adjuster should rotate away from you to tighten the brake and toward you to loosen, correct?
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I can't figure out how to get my front brake rotors off to replace them. I removed the caliper and thought the rotors should just come right off but they didn't? I then pulled the hub out and there was a retaining ring with a good size nut behind it , but you shouldn't have to remove the hubs to remove the brake rotors should you?
The stats of the truck are 04 f250 4wd w/manual hubs!
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I recently bought a 07 Expedition with light left front damage. After the repair I noticed that I'm not getting any power to the rear turn/brake, and backup lamps.The tail lamps and third break light work as does the trailer plug. I know that they were working prior to repairing the front. I did disconnect an aftermarket alarm during the repair. Basically all I replace was L/F sheet metal. Of cause I checked the obvious things like fuses and current to the tail light sockets.
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I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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Last weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
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