Have 2005 excursion. Just did ball joints , wheel bearings all of them, axle joints and seals.Also warn manual hubs. Have a intermittent scraping grinding noise sounds like driver but could be both front.4wd works fine in high or low, no vibration just this annoying noise. took brakes apart and no funny wear or foreign object in dust shield.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 Replies2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
View 1 RepliesOne my F350 with 175,000 miles on it, at low speeds when turning the steering wheel it seems as if it has two places during use that it rubs or has an oblong spot in it. I have 285 tires on it and have for years.
Kind of like if you were turning a shaft in a seal and it rubbed or was rough. It makes a faint, muffled, barely audible grinding noise or feel. I have a lift and level of about 4" and 285s for years. This just started in the last 5 months or so.
I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesI have a rough chatter noise coming from the rear end. It happens when starting off up till about 25mph. It rattles the cab a little and sounds real rough. It also happens when turning up hill, causes lots of vibrations in the cab. Some have mentioned it could be the rear differential needing a friction modifier or the u-joints needs some special lube? Its an 05 F150 with 62K miles.
View 3 RepliesI have a 06' Ranger 2WD with General Grabber tires that have about 30,000 miles on them and still show significant tread remaining.
Within the last 2 months, I have experienced excessive tire noise - like I am driving a Humvee or something. Also, when I turned right or left the tires would make even MORE noise - it seemed to be coming from the right front tire mostly. 2 weeks ago I had the tires rotated and the sound seems to have reduced while turning but I still have the howling Humvee noise while driving down the road. There is no vibration coming from the wheel, so I don't think it's a balancing issue. Could it be the bearings?
I also checked the PSI all around and one tire does have a slow leak but I try to keep to topped off.
My 05 Jetta TDI is intermittently making a rubbing/grinding noise. Not in stop and go traffic but when I come to a stop at a stop sign, but only just before I come to a complete stop, not as soon as I hit the brakes. The shop that put the brakes on (about 18000 miles ago) looked at pads, rotors and pedal but said it's all fine. Could it be the booster, abs, or something else completely?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
View 3 RepliesI have a grinding noise coming from what I believe are the front brakes. It happens when I apply the brakes and sounds like the brake pad is worn out and there's metal-on-metal contact but when I checked the pads, they are at 80-90% (rears have about the same amount left). I hear it the loudest just before coming to a full stop, from about 20 mph down to stop. I thought it was caused by rust on the brakes but after I wore off the rust, the sound is still there.
View 14 Replies My f150 steering appears to be not as smooth as when originally purchased. Only 50k miles. Typically driving at higher speeds and making slight correction turns it appears to bind just slightly then when it does move the truck tends to over steer.
This is an intermittent issue and can be hard to replicate. Best noticeable at highway speeds as the change occurs more quickly. Doesn't show up once you into a turn but instead most noticeable when going from straight to slight turns. No aftermarket changes since new. Happens with or without pulling loads. Again from center of steering position.
My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
View 1 RepliesOn braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 RepliesI've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
View 5 RepliesComing to a left turn signal I was anticipating it turning red on me, and I drove into the turn lane briskly 30mph and then applied brakes as I made a u-turn. It sounded like a cross between dragging the front air dam and metal on metal brake grinding as I made the turn. Stopped immediately and did not scrap the air dam and all front end components checked out, okay. Car is driving just fine now, has only done this once.
View 18 RepliesHad a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
View 2 RepliesInitially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
View 14 RepliesDrove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
View 7 Replies1950 cadillac - standard drums on all 4 corners.
I put new wheel cylinders on each drum, and replaced the drivers front hose, as it was clogged. The passenger side I left because it works and doesnt leak. I've cleaned all the brake surfaces, shoes and drums, and bled everything.
When I brake, and only when I brake, the front right makes a grinding noise and the car pulls to the right.
I tried tightening the star wheel today to bring the shoes inward in hopes that would equalize brake pressure up front, but when trying again today, I got that grinding sound still.
There is no scoring or gouges on the shoes, drum, and the inner and outer ball bearings seem fine - round chrome balls with no discoloration, no gouges on the spindles. Granted I don't drive this far at all, especially now that I have this grinding.
How can I really tell if its the ball bearings? It only makes the grind when I am on the brakes.