If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 RepliesBrake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
View 3 RepliesAfter putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
View 8 RepliesMy buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
View 7 RepliesMy problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
View 6 RepliesWhen depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
View 1 RepliesI've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
View 5 RepliesHere's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
My 2003 F-250 5.4L 2WD has a front end vibration that starts around 40MPH (sometimes) and gets gradually worse until it goes away at 55 MPH. It oscillates the wheel a good 3/4"-1". It also does it also when decelerating through those speeds. It "feels" like the left side, but I can't be sure. When I jacked it up, I could get some movement laterally on the left wheel, but not the right. Also Noticed that the drive shaft has about 1/4" of play at the carrier bearing. Leaning towards ball joints.
View 2 RepliesTrying to change the pads on my 2003 F250. One of the boots is not retracting smoothly. Any recommendations?
I can't get the caliper to bolt back on and I think this is the issue.
My dad is having problems with his truck, brake pedal goes all the way to the floor even after bleeding all the brakes and the master cylinder. The wheel cylinder didn't have clips in it and he fixed it and it hasnt changed. What do we do? Its a 1993 f150 4.9l.....
View 4 RepliesI did a complete rebuild of my brake system in April. Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, hoses, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, proportioner valve and flushed all the lines and refilled with synthetic fluid. I have made five trips from Southern California to Idaho hauling home furnishings, one trip to Oregon and one trip to Northern California since overhauling the brakes with everything working great. Now something strange is happening. The brake pedal goes to the floor with very little resistance. It isn't spongy like there is air in the lines. It just goes to the floor if you push it all the way down.
The truck stops ok but it is really scary with the pedal going down like that. You can feel when the rear brakes come on because there is a little resistance in the pedal when they come on. You can actually lock the rear brakes up and skid the rear tires. If you push the pedal down further the front brakes start coming on and if you push all the way to the floor the truck will nosedive and you will get planted in the windshield.
I wonder if the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard proportioner valve is blowing all the pressure to the rear wheels because it won't do it if you take the vacuum off of the vacuum booster. You have full pedal when the booster is deactivated and all the wheels operate normally with the exception of having to plant both feet on the pedal to stop it.