Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 F150 - Driver Side Caliper Will Not Bleed Fluid
Jan 4, 2017
My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesI took my 2010 F-150 for brake job and ended up with brake fluid in intake!! How that happened?
View 12 RepliesI'm not too familiar with these trucks, but I've been working on my buddies 1999 e350 ford van.
The other day we were going out kayaking, and the brakes locked up, we were able to drive it home, but it was obvious the brakes were holding the truck back. decided to check it out today, found one front and one rear caliper were sticking, the dual piston calipers only had one working, which I believed to be causing the pads to get pressed together crooked, and caused them to "lock up" or get stuck.
anyways, got the new calipers on and no more sticking, so I bled the brakes started in the front and went all the way to the back, did every caliper. brakes feel firm with the vehicle off, but instantly when the van is started, the pedal goes to the floor. it still stops okay, but the pedal feel is not nearly where it should be.
I got all of the air out of the system, but the abs light is on, and has been for a while. I'm wondering if there is something else that needs to be bled in the abs? someone was telling me about bleeding the abs motor?
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC.
I change the rotor, calipers, and pads on the front end.
When I went to bleed the brakes I got some fluid, then I got none.
I can hear fluid squishing around up near the master cylinder, but none coming to the caliper.
I see a bleeder screw on the master cylinder.
Before the car came to me the person had, had low fluid, but had brakes. Now the pedal just goes all the way to the floor with no effort.
There are no leaks or broken lines anywhere.
While searching here for information on changing the brake fluid, I came across a thread that stated: You need a Lexus scan tool to bleed the brakes properly. I've bled brakes and other cars without having a scan tool. I've never bled the brakes on my 09 ES350.
View 4 RepliesMy 95 F150 2WD. The passenger side wheel is leaning in(top) - toed in? and I am A. concerned that this is unsafe to drive it and B. What is the most likely cause and fix? I was just looking for a starting point.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesI pulled a brake caliper off for inspection, and when I reinstalled it, I managed to strip one of the holes on the caliper bracket when putting one of the 7mm bolts back in - haste makes waste, ya? So, I am trying to find out my options, is it possible to get it re-threaded, helicoiled, or is it toast and I need to buy a new one?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 F350 single rear wheel Superduty truck that will not allow the right rear caliper to fully release. I replaced the caliper/mounting hardware/pads/rotor. The problem continued so I replaced the rubber hose to the caliper. Problem continues. I'm thinking possibly the center rubber brake line at the differential (where it splits and goes right/left) but at this point I am guessing. Maybe proportionate valve but I know nothing about them.
View 11 RepliesLast weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
I have a '99 E350 passenger van I have been trying to figure out a vibration problem. All the way up to 67 mph it is as smooth as a Lincoln, but from there up a vibration emerges from where I think is the front driver side area. I have done new rotors/calipers, because it needed them, balanced tires numerous times, have put the fronts in the rear and those have not fixed the vibration. The van has 100k on it and I love owning it especially with the big V10. The vibration is just enough to be annoying and when driving it is almost like it cycles for 4 seconds for the vibration then smooth for 6 seconds.
View 3 RepliesMy dad has a 2008 F150 with just over 36K on the clock, and wouldn't you know it the ABS light came on. He's been a Ford guy all his life and excellent with a wrench, but has never worked on an ABS problem. BTW, this is the first problem he's had on his last 2 F150's.
I know we'll need to plug it up to a scanner. My question is can we plug up to the OBDII port or is there another ABS port we need to plug into, and will a regular scanner work, or do we need a special scanner?
I've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
View 4 RepliesI am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
I have a '90 F150 and both the yellow ABS light and the red BRAKE light are on.
It was fine until my buddy did a little brake work for me, including replacing a couple brake lines and a parking brake cable. He bled the system at the lines going into the front calipers because the bleeder valves on the calipers where corroded and frozen. I then replaced the calipers and bled the system properly. Three times. I don't think the problem is from the brake work.
The brakes still work, by the way. The pedal just feels a bit spongy and I think the brakes don't work as well as they could.
If the truck is not running, I can pump the brakes a few times, and it will make a sound like it's sucking air a few times. Then the sound stops and the pedal firms up.
If the truck IS running, it keeps making the sucking air sound no matter how many times I pump it, and the pedal feel stays the same. I think it might be a bad brake booster.
86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?
I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
View 18 Replies