Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 E150 - Outer Wheel Bearing Completely Shred
Jun 6, 2012
On my 2000 E-150, what is the thread for the wheel spindle, the one that holds the wheel bearings in place?
I had the outer wheel bearing completely shred yesterday, and I don't know if the threads were hurt yet as when I got home and the tow truck dropped it there, I didn't want to tear it apart. So I'm at work and would like to take a die home to chase the threads just in case.
Autozone's website has the spindle nut kit, but it shows:
Thread Size: 3/4-16 & M20-1.0
A machinist here tells me that they are not the same, so how do I know what I have?
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I have a 94 Explorer. I recently swapped over from auto to manual hubs. I followed a detailed write-up that I found online. During the process I repacked my outer wheel bearings. Ever since then I hear a grinding noise coming from the front wheels. Sounds like the bearings aren't seated properly. The guide that I followed instructed to torque the spindle nut that sits next the the outer wheel bearing really tight in order to seat the bearing, then loosen it back up and hand tighten it. But when I loosened the spindle nut the wheel bearing would pop back out. What is the best way to get a wheel bearing to stay seated properly?
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What is the difference between inner and outter tie rods?
When I look them up online they look the same.
What/which one is the inner, and what/which one is the outter?
On my truck, the part from the lower ball joint which I thought was the tie rod has a male part adapting to a bar on both sides.
It's a 1997 7.3L lifted F250.
any heads up on the difference between inner and outer tie rods on my rig.
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I think my steering column bearing is bad up at the top end. I got the steering wheel off and the coil spring wire thing without too much drama, but my Haynes manual stops there, it doesn't tell how to go any deeper into column. How to proceed? Almost forgot, this is a '97 F150....
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I made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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I've got a 70 F250. When I got the truck it come with extra wheels. So I have 9 wheels altogether. I know originally they came with 16.5 wheels. However the tires on most of the rims say there 16" and 2 say there 16.5". They all seem to be the same size rim though. So how do I know if they're 16.5 or 16? And I"m guessing 16" tires should not be mounted on 16.5" rims.
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I have a 2000 F-250 SUperduty with a dana 50 front end , and as most of you know the front hub bearing's are junk, and expensive to replace. I know dynatrac has a kit to convert it to the tapered, cheaper, servicable bearing's. But 2g is a lil out of my price range. I was curious if anybody has tried takin the knuckles and stub shafts off an older dana 60 and putting the knucke's on the front axle to get the older bearing style instead of the hub bearing and the actuall lock outs instead of the POS vaccum style.
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My 2004 r32 has 160k miles, cam positioning lite wouldn't clear-outer (small) chain intermediate shaft gear just about worn completely out. Are timing specs for cams,crank, intermediate shaft available, also torque specs? Iread the 12v chain diy thread, but I doubt they are the same.
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I have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
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I have a 1991 F250 Lariat, 4x4, 460 engine, auto trans. I am having trouble with my steering. The power stering turns good to the left but when I turn to the right it is like there is no power and is very tough to turn.
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I have a 10 inch lift and 37's on my excursion 2000 7.3l. I need to upgrade the breaks, the tires make it very hard to stop.
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I have a 2010 F250 King Ranch FX4. I have an odd problem that I am trying to get to the bottom of. We went on a 2,500 mile road trip last year and I noticed on the way home my steering wheel had worked it's way off center counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal. I had gotten an alignment right before we left and it was perfect center at that point.
I took it back in when I got home and had a tire rotation and another alignment. Within a week the wheel was off again to the same degree, counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal.
Two weeks ago... tired and annoyed of driving like this, I crawled under the truck and adjusted the steering wheel to center via the drag link adjustment. I tightened everything down tight and this lasted all of three days.
Wat would cause this? Tires are wearing normally, alignment checks out and it tracks straight. I do see some grease like leakage where the pitman arm meets the top of the drag link and again have some small grease where the drag link connect to the passenger side tire. I lifted the front end and tried to move/wiggle the tires and I have no movement... everything is solid. The truck never wanders when on the road... steering wheel is just off.
Truck only has 90k on it of highway miles and an easy life thus far. I am not hard on the truck.
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2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
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One my F350 with 175,000 miles on it, at low speeds when turning the steering wheel it seems as if it has two places during use that it rubs or has an oblong spot in it. I have 285 tires on it and have for years.
Kind of like if you were turning a shaft in a seal and it rubbed or was rough. It makes a faint, muffled, barely audible grinding noise or feel. I have a lift and level of about 4" and 285s for years. This just started in the last 5 months or so.
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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2000 Explorer 2WD. I had tons of front end issues that I have been working through. So far I have done upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, got an alignment. The steering/suspension system is in good shape now.
Now the only thing left is a scraping/grinding sound coming from the driver's side brakes. I mostly hear it at low speeds (taking off from lights, etc).
When I was doing all of the other work, I observed that the rotor is in great shape, brake pads look great. I am wondering if it is a caliper issue, maybe the caliper isn't releasing enough or something. What to check?
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2000 f250 with v10, got home from work today, then short time later we were going out again and my steering was extremely loose. Basically you could swing the wheel and it spins around. Power steering fluid was empty and I refilled it but still the same problem. Is there possibility that I'm just not using a thick enough power steering fluid?
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I m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
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My 95 F150 2WD. The passenger side wheel is leaning in(top) - toed in? and I am A. concerned that this is unsafe to drive it and B. What is the most likely cause and fix? I was just looking for a starting point.
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