Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1999 E350 - Vibration From Front Driver Side Area
Oct 27, 2015
I have a '99 E350 passenger van I have been trying to figure out a vibration problem. All the way up to 67 mph it is as smooth as a Lincoln, but from there up a vibration emerges from where I think is the front driver side area. I have done new rotors/calipers, because it needed them, balanced tires numerous times, have put the fronts in the rear and those have not fixed the vibration. The van has 100k on it and I love owning it especially with the big V10. The vibration is just enough to be annoying and when driving it is almost like it cycles for 4 seconds for the vibration then smooth for 6 seconds.
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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Front driver side area making a flat tire noise. Replaced the tires and axle and wheel bearings. Kinda lost on what could btw making the noise. Alignment done 15k miles ago when lowering springs and new shocks were put on.
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I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
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My 2003 F-250 5.4L 2WD has a front end vibration that starts around 40MPH (sometimes) and gets gradually worse until it goes away at 55 MPH. It oscillates the wheel a good 3/4"-1". It also does it also when decelerating through those speeds. It "feels" like the left side, but I can't be sure. When I jacked it up, I could get some movement laterally on the left wheel, but not the right. Also Noticed that the drive shaft has about 1/4" of play at the carrier bearing. Leaning towards ball joints.
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We have a 1999 Passat GLX 2.8 auto. I recently put on a new inner and outer tie rod as well as a lower forward control arm. The issue that we are experiencing is that when accelerating or braking hard there is a popping/clunking noise coming from the driver front area. When accelerating or braking normally/ smoothly it is fine. But, as I said accelerate or brake hard it will make a single pop or clunk and that is it, just once when braking hard or accelerating quickly.
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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I have already changed the pads, rotors, and calipers on both front brakes. Now it was sticking so bad the other day it was smoking from being so hot. Its not making me come to a full stop but the pads are sitting on the rotor even when I took the tire off. Could it be something simple? Or is the last thing to change the master cylinder?
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Last weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
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My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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About 3 months ago I started having a grinding sound from the front driver side hub area. I replaced it and it fixed the problem. I read where you should do both because he other one is soon behind it but I waited. Now I started hearing it from the passenger side too. So I replaced it today and all was good until I tested it from 4 wheel back to 2 wheel. Once I went back to 2 wheel the clicking that sounds like bearings going out to me, was back. What is it?
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My 95 F150 2WD. The passenger side wheel is leaning in(top) - toed in? and I am A. concerned that this is unsafe to drive it and B. What is the most likely cause and fix? I was just looking for a starting point.
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Started hearing a squeak from drivers front wheel area when turning right, thought maybe pads might need replacing but they were fine as were the pins. So I checked for play with tire off ground and there was def some play pulling from top to bottom, so that lead me to the front hub, I read some posts about pulling the abs sensor and getting some grease in the the hub bearing so I did that but when I replaced the sensor and spun the hub it was scrubbing on the bearing.?
So I shimmed the sensor with a washer but now the abs light comes on but there doesn't seem to be a squeak when turning right anymore. Any example of doing this and had the sensor scrub? And with the play I would assume I need to plan to replace the hub assembly fairly soon...
2000 X 4x4 V10 with 147k
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Our 2002 Mountaineer with AWD started to have a clunk noise in the front driver side wheel area. It happens only when you take you foot off the gas between 30 and 65 MPH. If you slowly ease up off the gas no noise you have to totally remove your foot from the gas. It sounds like something needs grease or like a gear is a little loose. I have seen some post about noise but have not found one that happens in this situation.
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MY '07 SuperCab just started making a strange rhythmic sound as I drive. It is coming from the drivers side front wheel area. It is like a short creaking sound. It stays the same if I am turning the tires. Seems to go away if I put the brakes on hard, but I slow down so much I am not sure. Front CV Joint?
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While underneath truck today i noticed the front stabilizer bar has disconnected at both ends,Haven't noticed anything in the handling,How important is this thing ?
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I have a rattle coming from the drivers front area. I'm not 100% sure but I think it might go away in warm weather. I had a tech drive along with me once a few weeks ago, but we couldn't hear it that afternoon. Yesterday afternoon it warmed up to around 65ish and I couldn't hear it. I only hear it at slow speeds (5-10mph) and only when rolling over light bumps, anything moderate to heavy and it's not discernible.
This is my first try at recording it and I think it sounds a bit less squeaky more rattley in person. Maybe more like a lost screwdriver in the a body panel or engine bay or something Or a loose strut? Or a loose rotor? (doesn't seem possible) Or the short shifter bouncing? (I have a forge SS, and once I was poking around looking for something loose in the engine bay and I jiggled that and the sound seemed close, but I don't see how that would be it.
Some good examples in the clip are at 15s, 28s, 52s, and 1:02s
[URL] ....
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I put lowering springs on a few months ago and a pop/clunk has developed. There is a tiny lip of pavement just past my garage door and it clunks as I back out at an angle over it. Worse case I can check the torque on all of the bolts.
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