Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1997 F250 - Passenger Side Rear Drum Brake Was Full Of Oil
Dec 11, 2015
Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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Last weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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The brake line on the passengers side went bad. Called ford for replacement and they said ford is not supplying that line any more. Where I can get a replacement? Its hard line and connects to the rubber line.
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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Changing rear drum brakes to discs? I've done it with my 94 explorer, and i was wondering if the axles are the same, just swap the hardware like the explorers are.
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I got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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I recently attempted to replace the rear brake shoes on my 01 Accord. Everything seemed to go reasonably well, but now when the brakes heat up I get a loud knocking and vibration while driving that goes away while braking. I popped the drum off last night and backed off the adjustment as the drum was hanging on one spot during rotation. This seemed to make it worse (though some minimal did stop suddenly in front of me, so I had to emergency brake and heat everything up). It has the original drums.
As a second, related question, there was no problem on my little test drive last night so I drove to work this morning. About 3/4 of the way there was when this started, and kept getting progressively worse. Understanding that you don't know exactly what the problem is, do you think it's reasonably ok to drive home (about 10 miles and I can stay off the highway)?
Knocking and vibration from rear passenger drum brake after replacing brake shoes, only while driving.
Car: 2001 Accord LX 4 cylinder
Took the drum off, backed down the tension on the adjustment screws. Drives and feels fine until the brakes heat up.
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I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
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My buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
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So it looks like there is no adjustment on the Parking Brake on this ride other than adjusting the shoes up. As far as I can see my Parking Brake should work like a champ, but it won't hold on much of a hill. I have new shoes, new drums and it is adjusted up so I can hear them drag. I can actually feel it getting tight then looser as you spin the wheel, like one of the new drums is slightly out of round, so I don't think I could go much tighter. Is it possible one or more of the cables is stretched? I did see the shoes spread when I had the drums off and I stepped on the Park Brake, so I know things are working at least that much.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
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My 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
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I recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
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