Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1997 F250 - Front Tire Chains Broke And Ripped The ABS Wire
Oct 22, 2015
I have a 1997 F250 Light Duty with a 5.4L and 4 wheel drive, 216,000 miles. Last year one of my front tire chains broke and ripped the ABS wire. I have soldered them back together and no longer have the ABS light illuminated in the dash. However, when I apply the brakes at speeds slower than 25 mph, the ABS pulses. Over 25 mph the brakes work as they should until almost stopped and then they pulse.
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I have a 2005 F250 Power stroke w/ brake controller installed. There is no voltage to the trailer brake (blue wire) pin. I've checked all of the fuses and they appear to be okay.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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My 2012 F250 4x4 tire pressure warning message/warning light it on, I have checked all tire pressures, they seem fine, i s this a common problem and what normally has to be done to fix the issue...
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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I have a 06' Ranger 2WD with General Grabber tires that have about 30,000 miles on them and still show significant tread remaining.
Within the last 2 months, I have experienced excessive tire noise - like I am driving a Humvee or something. Also, when I turned right or left the tires would make even MORE noise - it seemed to be coming from the right front tire mostly. 2 weeks ago I had the tires rotated and the sound seems to have reduced while turning but I still have the howling Humvee noise while driving down the road. There is no vibration coming from the wheel, so I don't think it's a balancing issue. Could it be the bearings?
I also checked the PSI all around and one tire does have a slow leak but I try to keep to topped off.
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My 95 F150 2WD. The passenger side wheel is leaning in(top) - toed in? and I am A. concerned that this is unsafe to drive it and B. What is the most likely cause and fix? I was just looking for a starting point.
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I bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
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My 2003 F-250 5.4L 2WD has a front end vibration that starts around 40MPH (sometimes) and gets gradually worse until it goes away at 55 MPH. It oscillates the wheel a good 3/4"-1". It also does it also when decelerating through those speeds. It "feels" like the left side, but I can't be sure. When I jacked it up, I could get some movement laterally on the left wheel, but not the right. Also Noticed that the drive shaft has about 1/4" of play at the carrier bearing. Leaning towards ball joints.
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My 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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Ok I have an f 150 04 fx4. 120k miles. I was checking a drip on the transmission cooler, and noticed my passenger side coil spring is broken 2nd coil from the bottom. Truck rides well, but obviously this needs to be addressed. Break looks old since it is rusted over, I probably relocated from new England to Florida driving this down 95 with this break, scary.
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OK, a couple of days ago I hit a good size bump and got the dreaded death wobble. I stopped to check the lug nuts and none were loose... jacked up one side at a time, tried shaking the tires to see if anything was loose and to my surprise on the drivers side I could move the tire back and forth (like turning the steering wheel, not around) so I figured something had broken right as I stopped. Is it supposed to do that?? I know it`s not on older vehicles.
Anyway I figured I was stranded so I thought what the heck, I`m gonna see if it will turn with the steering wheel. Well when I did... with drivers side still off the ground it gets the death wobble, oh it was running when I did it. I jacked it back down and it stopped so then I tried turning the steering wheel to see if it would turn and both tires turned as they should. I was scared to try it but I drove on home about 4 miles slowly.
My brother has an older Saturn and his wife was driving it and from the way he described it, it got the death wobble. Someone told him it was the serpentine belt. He changed it and it didn't happen anymore. Does it sound possible that the belt could be my problem. BTW, the truck is a 99 ranger 4x4 with no lift or anything.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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I have a 2012 Accent GLS with premium package. So, this came with fog lights. Few months back, one of the fog lights got ripped of its place and the body shop said the hooks which hold the light are broken and whole bumper need to be replaced for the light to be attached and quote was given for around $750.
I contacted other small body shops to just stick the light with glue but no one accepted to do that.
I don't use those fog lights anyway. So, is it cheap in a way to remove the other fog light and just fill the fog light spots? When I say fill, I am not sure what those are called which exist in place of fog lights for a car with no fog lights. I think its better than just being with one fog light.
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I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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