Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1997 - Difference Between Inner And Outer Tie Rods On Ring?
Jul 4, 2014
What is the difference between inner and outter tie rods?
When I look them up online they look the same.
What/which one is the inner, and what/which one is the outter?
On my truck, the part from the lower ball joint which I thought was the tie rod has a male part adapting to a bar on both sides.
It's a 1997 7.3L lifted F250.
any heads up on the difference between inner and outer tie rods on my rig.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I bought my wife a 2011 GX460 from Lexus. On my way home i realized the car was in KM not MPH. The outer ring is in KM and the inner ring is in MPH. The dealer thought they were going to be able to change but turns out they can't. I'm at a crossroads, what do i do. They offered to try and find a new car or i keep the car and we work out a deal of some sort. If i keep the car will i run into other issues with it being from Canada. So, what makes a 2011 GX460 from Canada different then one from the US ?
View 14 Replies
On my 2000 E-150, what is the thread for the wheel spindle, the one that holds the wheel bearings in place?
I had the outer wheel bearing completely shred yesterday, and I don't know if the threads were hurt yet as when I got home and the tow truck dropped it there, I didn't want to tear it apart. So I'm at work and would like to take a die home to chase the threads just in case.
Autozone's website has the spindle nut kit, but it shows:
Thread Size: 3/4-16 & M20-1.0
A machinist here tells me that they are not the same, so how do I know what I have?
View 1 Replies
I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
View 1 Replies
[URL].............
Happening to all 3 cars. All 2012
2- Passat Se 2.5L 60k/40k miles
1- Jetta TDI 65k miles
Shown driver rear rotor on Passat ( was cleaning Abs speed sensor ring)
Started about 35k miles on each car as a small ring creeping from the outer edge. Backside has maybe 1/4-1/2" clean braking surface.
Slide pins moove free and smooth
Pads were not seized
Caliper isnt seized
Notice the different ridges on the inner pad.
Obviously I want to replace the pads and rotors but before I do. I want to figure out the source for this disease so keep from prematurely replacing them in the future.
View 1 Replies
I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
View 4 Replies
Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
View 1 Replies
I recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
View 5 Replies
I took my truck to work and needed a pitman arm. So took it home put a new one on and the steering wheel was crooked which didn't bother me. but after in cranking the torsion bars I noticed how Badly I needed an alignment. So took it back in for an alignment and I cant turn the steering wheel back to center because the tie rods are maxed out. I tried to take the pitman arm back off center the wheel and everything but the key ways just line up the same way. Any chance the after market pitman arm is off or any clues?
View 11 Replies
My 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
View 4 Replies
Last weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
View 1 Replies
I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
View 4 Replies
Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
View 6 Replies
I've got a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4 with 200,000. So my rear differential leaks a few drops of fluid every time I drive it, looks like it's coming from the pinion seal. I've just been filling it topping it off with fluid.
Anyway, yesterday I got in it and started driving, I noticed a howling noise, and when I turned my rear tires started locking up. It was like that for about 5 miles until I got home, no matter which way you turned the tires would lock up.
I went under and topped off the differential with fluid again, and I pushed my parking brake in and released it. Got back in the truck and drove, and it was fine. What happened? I'm just worried it will happen again if I don't look more into it.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1997 F250 Light Duty with a 5.4L and 4 wheel drive, 216,000 miles. Last year one of my front tire chains broke and ripped the ABS wire. I have soldered them back together and no longer have the ABS light illuminated in the dash. However, when I apply the brakes at speeds slower than 25 mph, the ABS pulses. Over 25 mph the brakes work as they should until almost stopped and then they pulse.
View 1 Replies
I'm replacing my rear diff cover and didn't realize there are multiple sizes. How do I figure out what the size is of my ring gear?
2001 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCrew, 5.4L
View 3 Replies
So I had the same , "noise" in the rear of my truck that i see other people having, at first I thought it was my tires, since I ran buckshots, so I switched over to street tires, and low and behold it sounded like I had buckshots still on the truck. So this thursday I pulled the diff cover off, and guess what i found!
The abs ring on the ring gear, was completely off , and the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears was broken with just about maybe 3/8 to 5/16 of an inch left in the pin, right now i am still working on how to get that out of there.
also found a 1999 ford f150 2wd truck, 4.6 auto , that someone pulled a 1997 4.6 engine out of and put it in this truck and now it won't charge, and i think it's cause of the pcm needing to be reflashed. tested the alt, battery, everything is good, i just don't know if the pcm controls the charging system.
Pics will come soon of the differential destruction.
View 3 Replies
Just started. Replace fuel pimp and bracket 8 months ago. Now, three times in two days ...freely cranks, but does not fire. It has been suggested by a key man that my ignition key "Ring Transponder(??) is failing, about a $50.00 part.
Any links to a step-by-step to where I could do this myself? ($$$). I don't know what to call it, so it makes it hard to search online. the part he referred to in under my ignition switch shroud...but that"s all I know. (I was driving when I talked to him and forgot the exact term he used (I'm old, and easily confused by anything post ignition points and condenser)
View 4 Replies
Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
View 1 Replies
What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 Replies
I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
View 2 Replies
