Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1996 F350 Pulling To The Left When Apply Brakes
Feb 7, 2011
1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
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2008 F-350 wheel will lock for no reason. I think the Hydroboost has a hair line crack it and when the temp and pressure reach a certain number then it sends brake fluid threw the crack to the caliper? I also heard it could be in the ABS because its locking just one wheel?
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My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
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This is on my 2002 Ford Excursion 4x4. I have replaced the brakes 2 times with the same results.
New: rotors, pads, calipers and grease the caliper slide pins so they are sliding properly. I have also replaced the slide pins the first time. I even lightly greased the ends of the brake pad back plates where they mount in the calipers/brake clips. There is always more brake dust on the left front wheel compared to the right front. The steering wheel turns to the left when I hit the brakes. I can't figure this out.
The one thing that seems strange is it was very difficult to get the pads and brake pad clips into the caliper. It almost seems like the pads are too tight into the clips/caliper. I am wondering if taking a little material off the ends of the brake pad back plate to allow better movement in the caliper/clips.
The left front is either grabbing too much or the right front is not grabbing enough.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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Here's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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Every time I apply brakes I hear a weird humming noise, as well as no stopping power. Checked fluids and pads and everything is where it should be. I heard abs can cause this but not sure on that. I know my master cylinder has a very small leak but it hasn't lost any fluids of that sort. I'm lost. I don't know where else to look.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
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Just did the rear brakes on my 05 EX. New rotors and pads. Now there is a squeal when going around a left turn. It is a constant squeal when going around a left turn, not a squeak-squeak-squeak. Sounds like it is coming from the left rear. Took it back apart to make sure I didnt miss anything and everything looks fine.
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just bought 2016 f350 6.7L super duty,super cab,now has 3000 miles on it,question is it ride hard is that normal and can i get it to ride smoother
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I was wondering if there was how to on doing the MC replacement? The brake pedal goes to the floor almost every time you press on the brake?
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I have a 1999 F350 single rear wheel Superduty truck that will not allow the right rear caliper to fully release. I replaced the caliper/mounting hardware/pads/rotor. The problem continued so I replaced the rubber hose to the caliper. Problem continues. I'm thinking possibly the center rubber brake line at the differential (where it splits and goes right/left) but at this point I am guessing. Maybe proportionate valve but I know nothing about them.
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Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
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My 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
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Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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