Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1992 F250 - ABS Light Came On - Again Another Brake?
Apr 22, 2012
92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
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My buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
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I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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So it looks like there is no adjustment on the Parking Brake on this ride other than adjusting the shoes up. As far as I can see my Parking Brake should work like a champ, but it won't hold on much of a hill. I have new shoes, new drums and it is adjusted up so I can hear them drag. I can actually feel it getting tight then looser as you spin the wheel, like one of the new drums is slightly out of round, so I don't think I could go much tighter. Is it possible one or more of the cables is stretched? I did see the shoes spread when I had the drums off and I stepped on the Park Brake, so I know things are working at least that much.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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I purchased a 1992 F-250 last month. About a week ago I topped off all the fluids (including brake). I was driving it around the day after topping off the fluids and noticed that half the brake reservoir was empty. Topped it off again and did not notice much of a leak at all (I may have done something wrong, not sure what). Parked it and found a small leak in the rear passenger side brake bleeder/cylinder/line (couldn't tell exactly). Took apart the brake and found that the drum and shoes were bad, so Installed new drums, shoes, cylinders, and spring kits in both rear tires.
Started bleeding from the rear right (farthest) until no more bubbles. Went to the left and bled until no more bubbles..... decided to check the right and every time the brakes were pressed, i heard a bubbling/spitting noise (not sure exactly how to explain it) and more small bubbles came out. Went back to the left brake bled again, noticed a few bubbles, but was fine shortly after. What it might be? The brakes seem to be working ok for now though.
The right side brake (problem brake) has a newer line installed. The screw that connects the line to the cylinder seems like it is not in all the way, yet it is snug (I didn't cross threads when I installed it). I'm thinking that air may be being sucked in at the screw and eventually make it through the system... maybe not?
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When depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
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I have a 2005 F250 Power stroke w/ brake controller installed. There is no voltage to the trailer brake (blue wire) pin. I've checked all of the fuses and they appear to be okay.
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
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So lets see if I can put my issue into writing....
Have an 02 f250 v10, last summer replaced the steering gear box, havent had any issues til this spring.
Beginning of spring my ABS light came on during casual driving, wasn't to worried as the rear sensor often gets dirty and needs cleaned- cleaned the sensor and the light remained on this time.
While driving (and the light being on) I would at random get a very heavy vibration/shake from the front end and if I apply the brakes while that was happening the truck would pull real hard to the right, the shaking feels like a death rattle- like the ABS was firing and was using steroids, then it would go away. (the brakes would occasionally smoke a bit on the left front side afterwords)
So like that problem wasn't annoying enough, while trying to diagnose the problem the ABS light clicked off, and I wasn't able to recreate the vibration, but I noticed when I would apply the brakes, at say a stop sign, the brake would press in another inch or so (after already being stopped) and then I could hear a loud whine from under the hood.
The fun is these 2 problems seem to keep swapping positions- and I am at a loss of what could potentially be the cause- (I assumed the 2nd problem where after stopping the break pedal going soft another inch and the whine could of been air in the system- I bled the brakes and no change)...
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My 2012 F250 4x4 tire pressure warning message/warning light it on, I have checked all tire pressures, they seem fine, i s this a common problem and what normally has to be done to fix the issue...
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My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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