I'd like to convert my power steering to manual. I've done this to my Mustang, but never a vehicle this long and heavy. Looking for impressions of the results. Also, any special tools that may be required for the swap.
My truck is a 1987 F-150 4x2 extended-cab long-bed with a 351w and C6.
I have a 74 f100 4x4 with manual steering I would like to convert it over to power steering but every power gear box I have found the holes are in a different spot than the manual box is there anything out there that will match up or will I have to weld a plate on and drill new holes...
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
View 1 RepliesWhat would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 F150 that I have been working on. I have a set of complete doors off of a 1989 with Power Windows and locks hung on the truck and need to figure out how to power them up. Looking for access to a wiring diagram that will identify the colors of the wires in the doors. I don't care about the auto down and all of that ... not going to try and convert the whole truck with comp and all ... just want to make these function.
View 14 Replies1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cylinder need rebuilding or is my vacuum diaphragm going. Not sure that's what its called.
View 7 Replies1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cyclinder need rebuilding or is my vacume diaphragm going. Not sure thats what its called.
View 14 RepliesI just bought my first 79 Bronco knowing the steering had issues. I just replaced the pump but it did not fix the problem.
When running, if I rev the motor a bit I can turn it to the right but the pump growls. When I try to turn it back to the left it is hard, like I do not have a pump at all.
It seems to build pressure when I turn the wheel as as soon as I shut it of it blows the cap off. Am I looking at a new steering box or might it be the lines? Nothing appears to be crimped.
AC compressor clutch bearings went bad (went AWAY, actually) and the serp. belt snapped. New clutch went on just fine and works great, but after about 20 miles the power steering pump pulley cracked and started spinning on the shaft and the new serp belt jumped half off and ate itself.
So last night I finished putting in a new pump and pulley. Flushed out the lines with new fluid, manually bled the new pump and then followed the bleeding procedure in Haynes carefully. All looks good. Pump spins freely and runs very quiet. No noise or hesitation lock-to-lock. No leaks. Fluid level holds steady right at the half-way mark on the reservoir.
Sitting in my yard it turns smooth and very easy all the way through the whole range.
BUT, out on the street I'm getting very frequent but random lock-up where the wheel doesn't want to turn AT ALL (I'm a big guy and it's HARD to turn)! And then I'll jiggle it a bit and it's smooth as silk again. It's done it while moving fast, moving slow, and standing still. I drove about 30 miles testing it out and it seems completely random when it will lock up, but it did it about six times in half an hour. And when I got home and parked? Perfect, smooth steering.
What could be doing this? Prior to the troubles last week, steering was perfect, so I don't think the steering box is bad. (Could be, of course...).
I am trying to use a ford pump to power a Hydro-boost off a diesel pickup, took everything off same truck. Started it up, ran ok for 5 mins & PS pump fluid boils. No PS box in the system, just the Hydro. Seems like the fluid is not getting out of the pump & circulating either. I figure a blocked pump discharge or blockage in the Hydro. I can shoot air backwards thru the hydro, too hot to touch the pressure side. I had the outlet nut off the pump, could I have blocked the discharge when I put it back?
View 6 RepliesMy 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
View 4 RepliesI would like to add power steering to the truck. What I need to do and what parts are required. Could a 65F100 come from the factory with power steering?
View 2 RepliesMy dad has a 2008 F150 with just over 36K on the clock, and wouldn't you know it the ABS light came on. He's been a Ford guy all his life and excellent with a wrench, but has never worked on an ABS problem. BTW, this is the first problem he's had on his last 2 F150's.
I know we'll need to plug it up to a scanner. My question is can we plug up to the OBDII port or is there another ABS port we need to plug into, and will a regular scanner work, or do we need a special scanner?
I've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
View 4 RepliesI am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
I have a '90 F150 and both the yellow ABS light and the red BRAKE light are on.
It was fine until my buddy did a little brake work for me, including replacing a couple brake lines and a parking brake cable. He bled the system at the lines going into the front calipers because the bleeder valves on the calipers where corroded and frozen. I then replaced the calipers and bled the system properly. Three times. I don't think the problem is from the brake work.
The brakes still work, by the way. The pedal just feels a bit spongy and I think the brakes don't work as well as they could.
If the truck is not running, I can pump the brakes a few times, and it will make a sound like it's sucking air a few times. Then the sound stops and the pedal firms up.
If the truck IS running, it keeps making the sucking air sound no matter how many times I pump it, and the pedal feel stays the same. I think it might be a bad brake booster.
I took my 2010 F-150 for brake job and ended up with brake fluid in intake!! How that happened?
View 12 Replies86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?