Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1984 - Brake Fluid Disappearing?
Nov 30, 2012
1984 f150 with a new master cylinder, new brake booster, and new fluid. I did use dot 4 fluid (as opposed to dot 3) and bled out the system. This was about 9-10 months ago.
Just recently I noticed my brake pedal was going further down before I stopped; but I stopped. Since I switch between my car and truck a lot I thought this may have just been my imagination. What finally clued me in was when I couldn't stop as easily that something was obviously wrong.
Checked the master cylinder and the front reservoir was obviously empty. I couldn't find an obvious leak so took it to a shop. The added more fluid, bled the brakes and said its fine. They couldn't find a leak either.
Sooooo, any thoughts as to where my front brake fluid went? I'm assuming they took the wheels off and looked at the calipers too but I'm not sure I'll find out when I go pick it up in an hour. Could the dot 4 fluid have something to do with it? The brake lines, mast cyl, booster, proportioning valve and calipers are all bone dry. No obvious fluid leaks. Soooo now what.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
View 1 Replies
I took my 2010 F-150 for brake job and ended up with brake fluid in intake!! How that happened?
View 12 Replies
I have never noticed before but today I noticed the fluid inside the brake reservoir was bubbling or splashing around , whichever.What would cause this. I did just finish up on an intake manifold gasket replacement job. Drove for the first time today and that's when i noticed the 'bubbles'.
View 2 Replies
1968 C-850 Super Duty. Cannot find the brake fluid reservoir on this Hahn Firetruck.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
View 14 Replies
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 Replies
Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
View 1 Replies
I am trying to use a ford pump to power a Hydro-boost off a diesel pickup, took everything off same truck. Started it up, ran ok for 5 mins & PS pump fluid boils. No PS box in the system, just the Hydro. Seems like the fluid is not getting out of the pump & circulating either. I figure a blocked pump discharge or blockage in the Hydro. I can shoot air backwards thru the hydro, too hot to touch the pressure side. I had the outlet nut off the pump, could I have blocked the discharge when I put it back?
View 6 Replies
My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
View 13 Replies
I have a '86 Fod Bronco that I have changed the brake lines on and the brakes will not stiffen up (they weren't that good before the switch either). The master cylinder leaks a couple thimble full after driving and it seems to pull a little while braking, but both the disc are shiny so the calipers are not locked. The pedal is still soft even if something is going on otherwise. I have tried bleeding having someone pump the brakes 5-10 times and hold it while I bled it and repeated 10 times on each bleeder screw using 32 oz of fluid, but apparently I did something wrong. All of this to say, have any of y'all used any brake bleeding vacuum kits and which ones would you recommend?
View 7 Replies
My dad is having problems with his truck, brake pedal goes all the way to the floor even after bleeding all the brakes and the master cylinder. The wheel cylinder didn't have clips in it and he fixed it and it hasnt changed. What do we do? Its a 1993 f150 4.9l.....
View 4 Replies
I did a complete rebuild of my brake system in April. Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, hoses, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, proportioner valve and flushed all the lines and refilled with synthetic fluid. I have made five trips from Southern California to Idaho hauling home furnishings, one trip to Oregon and one trip to Northern California since overhauling the brakes with everything working great. Now something strange is happening. The brake pedal goes to the floor with very little resistance. It isn't spongy like there is air in the lines. It just goes to the floor if you push it all the way down.
The truck stops ok but it is really scary with the pedal going down like that. You can feel when the rear brakes come on because there is a little resistance in the pedal when they come on. You can actually lock the rear brakes up and skid the rear tires. If you push the pedal down further the front brakes start coming on and if you push all the way to the floor the truck will nosedive and you will get planted in the windshield.
I wonder if the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard proportioner valve is blowing all the pressure to the rear wheels because it won't do it if you take the vacuum off of the vacuum booster. You have full pedal when the booster is deactivated and all the wheels operate normally with the exception of having to plant both feet on the pedal to stop it.
View 14 Replies
I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
View 1 Replies
92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
View 8 Replies
I had a leaky brake line behind the gas tank on my 2000 f250 superduty and in the process of fixing that I ended up changing all my calipers and brakes. I've bled the lines and there is no air left in the lines but the brakes are still soft is there something else that needs to be bled. I think all brake fluid leaked on the floor when the line broke.
View 10 Replies
Is there a good way to bend brake lines without a bender? I have two brake lines to bend that are probably no longer then 3 feet and don't want to buy a bender.
View 6 Replies
Using a line lock as a parking brake? Going to switch to 4 wheel disc wont have parking brake.
View 10 Replies
I am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
View 1 Replies
I have a 10 inch lift and 37's on my excursion 2000 7.3l. I need to upgrade the breaks, the tires make it very hard to stop.
View 1 Replies
I recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
View 5 Replies
