Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1979 F350 - Master Cylinder Replacement?
Feb 6, 2012
I was wondering if there was how to on doing the MC replacement? The brake pedal goes to the floor almost every time you press on the brake?
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Feb 6, 2012
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Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1979 - Changed Brake Lines And Master Cylinder But Still Soft?
I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
View 2 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1993 F150 - Rear Brake Locking After Master Cylinder Replacement
I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
View 1 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2001 F350 - Brake Pedal Go To Floor As Pressure Is Applied - Bad Master Cylinder?
2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
View 4 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1979 F150 - Disk Brake Caliper Replacement / Evaluation
I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Why Are The Brake Lines Coiled Near Master Cylinder
Why the brake lines have 2 or 3 coils in them near the master cylinder? Makes it a real pain to work on anything down in that area. Always snags ratchets and stuff...
My brother and I were discussing it the other nite, and the conclusion we came up with was, the first guy ever who was installing a brake system had tubing that was a couple feet too long, and couldn't find a tubing cutter, so he coiled them up.
Then the next guy saw that and figured "hmm, so THAT'S how it's done", and so on... Kinda like the story about the lady who always cut off both ends of her ham before she put it in the broiler..
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1953 F100 - New Master Cylinder - No Pedal At All?
I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1987 - Brake Pedal Slowly Going To The Floor - Master Cylinder?
1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cyclinder need rebuilding or is my vacume diaphragm going. Not sure thats what its called.
View 14 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - No Brakes After Replacement Of Brake Booster And Master Cylinder?
A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1979 F250 - Hardly Stop When Pedal All The Way To Floor
My problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Master Cylinder Replacement
I have a 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost w/ 37K. I recently had to have the master cylinder replaced along w/ all my brake pads because it was not disengaging the calipers properly, so all of my pads were prematurely worn and cracked. I was wondering, it seems like this shouldn't happen on a truck this "young".
View 1 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
View 1 RepliesBuick - Regal :: 1992 - Brake Master Cylinder Replacement?
92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
View 2 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1996 F350 Pulling To The Left When Apply Brakes
1996 F350 PSD 7.3
Front Dana 60 mono beam
4 x 4
Last week I broke my front right caliper. I replaced the caliper, rotor and pads. Now, when I apply the brakes I pull to the left. I took the truck into my repair shop and let them figure it out. They were unable to repair the truck. They replace the master cylinder, all brake lines, calipers on both sides, brake pads, bearings on both wheels, vehicle alignment, tire balancing and tire rotation. The tires are three months old. Prior to last week i did not have any problems braking or steering. Driving at 60kmh the truck goes straight until i gently brake, it will slightly pull left.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2003 F350 - Changing Front Brakes / Have To Remove Hub Or Lockouts?
I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
View 5 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2003 F350 - All 4 Brakes Dragging
Here's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
Explorer :: Fluid Squishing Around Master Cylinder After Brakes Bleed
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC.
I change the rotor, calipers, and pads on the front end.
When I went to bleed the brakes I got some fluid, then I got none.
I can hear fluid squishing around up near the master cylinder, but none coming to the caliper.
I see a bleeder screw on the master cylinder.
Before the car came to me the person had, had low fluid, but had brakes. Now the pedal just goes all the way to the floor with no effort.
There are no leaks or broken lines anywhere.
Dodge - Caravan :: Soft Brakes In Spite Of New Master Cylinder
Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
View 5 RepliesCamry :: Master Cylinder Leaks Caused Faint Squeaking From Brakes
I have a 2004 Camry LE with 214,000 miles on the clock, and this car has had needed maintenance pertaining to the braking system ever since I bought it in January. Let me give you some background on past issues/maintenance before I dive into my current issue.
During the test drive, the brake pedal felt extremely soft/spongy, having to travel a lot farther than any other car I've driven (even my father's full size pickup had stronger brakes). My dad dismissed it just being the way the car was. In hindsight I would've walked away or slept on it, but let's just say I was pressured into buying the car right away.
We took it to my trusted local mechanic a few days later for an overall inspection, and he said the front brakes/rotors needed to be replaced. He said the rear brakes were thin, but could be replaced later down the line. So we replaced the front ones, expecting it to have some improvement. In reality, the brake pedal force was still the same as before.
A few months later, after hearing faint squeaking coming from the rear brakes, the brake light started to illuminate intermittently. That's when we decided to replace the rear brakes/rotors. After we replaced the rear brakes, braking motion was dramatically improved, and I did not have to push the pedal very far to achieve adequate braking power. It was great,while it lasted.
It gradually started to go back to the way it was, which is really disappointing. After growing tired of the problems, I decided to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and it was practically at the minimum line! Figuring it was a brake line or master cylinder leak, we took it again to my mechanic to have him inspect the braking system. Much to everyone's surprise (including my mechanic), there were no leaks to be found and he told me to come back if it gets worse or the brake light comes on. HOWEVER, when I drove it home from the mechanic, the brakes felt the way they did when he put the rear rotors on. On the service record, it said he just looked for leaks and readjusted the rear rotors. This was about a month ago, or at 209,000 miles.
However, as before, the brakes slowly started to loose their "bite" again and sure enough, the master cylinder had lost fluid; albeit not as significant as before, but enough to require topping off. In addition, whenever I'm decelerating on the freeway (from let's say, 75-60 MPH), the wheel shakes as well. This wasn't really present before.
My patience is running thin with this car; we've easily spent half the value of the car on maintenance.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: ABS System Failed - Module Replacement?
I took my 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 into the dealership to have front and rear brakes replaced at 77,000 miles. Brakes were down to 3mm. They also did a complete brake flush. They called after the brake job was done and said the ABS system failed and needed to replace ABS module. Given I didn't have any problems with ABS before bringing it into the dealership, what is the chance the brake repair screwed up something with the ABS that they caused?
View 5 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2008 F250 - Steering Stabilizer Replacement?
Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?