I have a 74 f100 4x4 with manual steering I would like to convert it over to power steering but every power gear box I have found the holes are in a different spot than the manual box is there anything out there that will match up or will I have to weld a plate on and drill new holes...
View 2 RepliesI'd like to convert my power steering to manual. I've done this to my Mustang, but never a vehicle this long and heavy. Looking for impressions of the results. Also, any special tools that may be required for the swap.
My truck is a 1987 F-150 4x2 extended-cab long-bed with a 351w and C6.
I would like to add power steering to the truck. What I need to do and what parts are required. Could a 65F100 come from the factory with power steering?
View 2 RepliesI and a friend are working on a 58 f100 and want to get a "new" or rebuilt steering box. Where do we find one and what is the part number for one?
View 1 RepliesI'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1974 ford f100
302
fmx transmission 14 bolt pan
tag off of transmission (not sure if this tells you anything)
The problem: the selector shaft is leaking
What I need: a replacement seal - part number or where to buy
Also, when I remove the valve body to replace the seal will there be any hidden BB's, springs or any other things come flying out that i need to keep an eye on. Valve body torque specs would be fantastic.
1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
I have a '58 F-100 4x4 with the Spicer model 24 divorced transfercase. The front end is out of a '64/'65 F-100.
It looks to me like the front axle has shifted forward and is tilted down. The shock mount are not even close to lining up in a manner that would allow shocks to be attached. It also looks to me like someone removed a leaf from both sides.
I already know the steering box needs to be rebuilt. What else is wrong....and how do I fix it?
1974 F100 starts to chug after 15 minutes driving although infrequently when driving at a slower pace. Would happen around the 70mph speed and stop chugs when slowed to 65mph.
Only have experienced this after it's been warmed up, in the past 3 sessions of driving it will do this on freeway when driving 70mph, slow down to 65mph and no issue. Although, it seemed to have chugged once this morning when driving 45mph up a hill when during time engine was partially warm.
Yesterday while driving, i lost all power steering and power brakes (you would automatically think Booster). I pulled over, popped the hood and fluid was spewing from behind the power steering pump somewhere. I limped the truck home about 20 miles. I checked brake fluid and it was full. checked power steering fluid and it appeared to be empty. Yet when i added fluid it took less than a half quart. I started the vehicle to pressurize the pump and find the leak. Yet the pump never pumped any fluid. (one would thing pump was out) I am baffled as to if the pump went out, why fluid loss? If the booster was out, why do i still have brakes just without power assist? Andif a hose is blown, why such small fluid loss? I dont want to just start replacing parts till it get the right one
View 1 RepliesI just bought my first 79 Bronco knowing the steering had issues. I just replaced the pump but it did not fix the problem.
When running, if I rev the motor a bit I can turn it to the right but the pump growls. When I try to turn it back to the left it is hard, like I do not have a pump at all.
It seems to build pressure when I turn the wheel as as soon as I shut it of it blows the cap off. Am I looking at a new steering box or might it be the lines? Nothing appears to be crimped.
AC compressor clutch bearings went bad (went AWAY, actually) and the serp. belt snapped. New clutch went on just fine and works great, but after about 20 miles the power steering pump pulley cracked and started spinning on the shaft and the new serp belt jumped half off and ate itself.
So last night I finished putting in a new pump and pulley. Flushed out the lines with new fluid, manually bled the new pump and then followed the bleeding procedure in Haynes carefully. All looks good. Pump spins freely and runs very quiet. No noise or hesitation lock-to-lock. No leaks. Fluid level holds steady right at the half-way mark on the reservoir.
Sitting in my yard it turns smooth and very easy all the way through the whole range.
BUT, out on the street I'm getting very frequent but random lock-up where the wheel doesn't want to turn AT ALL (I'm a big guy and it's HARD to turn)! And then I'll jiggle it a bit and it's smooth as silk again. It's done it while moving fast, moving slow, and standing still. I drove about 30 miles testing it out and it seems completely random when it will lock up, but it did it about six times in half an hour. And when I got home and parked? Perfect, smooth steering.
What could be doing this? Prior to the troubles last week, steering was perfect, so I don't think the steering box is bad. (Could be, of course...).
I am trying to use a ford pump to power a Hydro-boost off a diesel pickup, took everything off same truck. Started it up, ran ok for 5 mins & PS pump fluid boils. No PS box in the system, just the Hydro. Seems like the fluid is not getting out of the pump & circulating either. I figure a blocked pump discharge or blockage in the Hydro. I can shoot air backwards thru the hydro, too hot to touch the pressure side. I had the outlet nut off the pump, could I have blocked the discharge when I put it back?
View 6 RepliesMy 97F250, 7.3 diesel, 4WD has an intermittent steering issue. When I come out of a turn, it doesn't want to come out of the turn all the way. It will keep pulling one way, and I have to jerk the steering wheel in opposite direction, and sometimes the truck then over corrects quickly the other direction. Mechanic said front end looks good, so he replace the power steering pump. That didn't work...
View 4 RepliesI am planning a swap in an Excursion from the automatic to the manual transmission.
How will I need to modify the wiring harness to make sure everything still works?
Things I can think of that will need addressed:
Harness for the brakes (Neutral Safety Switch?)
Harness for the clutch pedal
Cruise control harness differences?
Back up switch wiring?
I am trying to adjust the steering box since it is so sloppy. I know there is a set screw with a torque head on top of it but I can't get the nut to loosen. Is there any way to do this. I've drenched it with a product we use called Rusty which is a rust penitrant and a solvent. Works real well to get the rusted screws to loosen but this thing isn't budging!
View 7 RepliesI think my steering column bearing is bad up at the top end. I got the steering wheel off and the coil spring wire thing without too much drama, but my Haynes manual stops there, it doesn't tell how to go any deeper into column. How to proceed? Almost forgot, this is a '97 F150....
View 2 RepliesI have a 93 f250. Have a few inches of play in the wheel. Any way I can tighting this up?
View 3 Replies My f150 steering appears to be not as smooth as when originally purchased. Only 50k miles. Typically driving at higher speeds and making slight correction turns it appears to bind just slightly then when it does move the truck tends to over steer.
This is an intermittent issue and can be hard to replicate. Best noticeable at highway speeds as the change occurs more quickly. Doesn't show up once you into a turn but instead most noticeable when going from straight to slight turns. No aftermarket changes since new. Happens with or without pulling loads. Again from center of steering position.
Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?