Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1958 F100 - Front Axle Shifted Forward - Fix?
Aug 23, 2013
I have a '58 F-100 4x4 with the Spicer model 24 divorced transfercase. The front end is out of a '64/'65 F-100.
It looks to me like the front axle has shifted forward and is tilted down. The shock mount are not even close to lining up in a manner that would allow shocks to be attached. It also looks to me like someone removed a leaf from both sides.
I already know the steering box needs to be rebuilt. What else is wrong....and how do I fix it?
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I and a friend are working on a 58 f100 and want to get a "new" or rebuilt steering box. Where do we find one and what is the part number for one?
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1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
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I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
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I have a 74 f100 4x4 with manual steering I would like to convert it over to power steering but every power gear box I have found the holes are in a different spot than the manual box is there anything out there that will match up or will I have to weld a plate on and drill new holes...
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I would like to add power steering to the truck. What I need to do and what parts are required. Could a 65F100 come from the factory with power steering?
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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So I noticed the other day that my front axle is tilted forward a little bit. Would this cause any problems or will it be alright.? If it's going to cause problems, how can I fix it.?
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I am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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My 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
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On braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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Ive seen this also on some 4runners. Ive had several vehicles many years old with no rust underneath at all and I check today and sure enough, some rust on the rear axle and in front suspension arms. I checked the lexus warranty and it is unclear whether this is covered.
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I have had a clunk in the front end that started out as a light clunk that was sometimes noticeable. It has now turned into a clunk that can be heard very often. It sounds like a hollow clunk. I'll try to explain it so it makes sense...If I'm going over a bump or speed bump or something like that it doesn't really do it noticeably. If I'm driving a get to a place where the road is uneven or there is a hole or pothole and the front end seems to "fall into the hole", then the sound is very audible, and I can feel it slightly in the steering wheel and under my feet in the drivers floorboard. So, I've had the front end checked out 4 times and between what they said to do and what I've read on here...here is what I've done so far......
Changed end links with moog end links
Changed sway bar bushings with moog bushings
Undid the bushing mounts from the front frame and wired the sway bar up to keep from flopping around. No change in sounds
Didn't get rid of the clunk....
Had front end shop check out truck... They said ball joints were ok, no play in them. They did say that they could feel some "clicking in the pitman arm pivot" when turning the wheel. Like something was loose in box.
I've changed shocks and bearings.
I can grab a hold of the passenger outer tie rod at the adjustment sleeve and rotate the tir rod and it will rotate around in the socket and hitting on the insertion point and make a metal thud sound.
Again, took into shop and they said that would be normal b/c the tie rods have to have that to keep from binding up in front end.
My thinking is that if the tie rod rotates that much, then it is rotating the drag link which in turn puts stress on the pitman arm which in turn has either broken or sheared the pinion shaft inside the box and then when I go over a hole, it moves and all of the above is put into motion.
Shop (Ford) basically called me an idiot and that wouldn't be the cause.
So, now onto my thoughts and questions....
Radius arm bushings
Axle bushings (????? how many and where are they all located)
tie rods and drag links..
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I am lowering the front end of my truck 3" using DJM Dream Beams. I have cut out the rear springs and replaced them with a four link lowering it 4" and installing an air bag suspension. I would like to run air bags up front, as well, but haven't been able to find much about that. What size to use?
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I've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
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I have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
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