Ford - Aviator :: 2004 - Front Drive Shaft Removal?
May 18, 2013
I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
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I have Rx 330 2005 AWD, recently we dont have winters, so I don't need 4x4 . Is it possible to drive without the back drive shaft? It very easy to remove it, but is it save for e.g. differential or other mechanisms? By the way I could reduce fuel consumption, I think, 18miles/gallon is really too much for polish realities.
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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I've pulled the fuel lines and disconnected all the electric plugs. I don't seem to be able to remove the unit as the 4x4 drive shaft is in preventing me from full removal. Is this possible? Do I have to remove the drive shaft? Very frustrating as this should have been a 15 minute or less job. A video would be useful, but all my searches show only two wheel drive removal.
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From what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
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I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
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I have a E99 F350 7.3L 4x4 I know some or most of you have already probably replaced this part and or pulled a front axle shaft out. So here is my question...In the pictures provided you can see what I think everyone is calling a "Dust Seal" and as you can see it is bad and making a very terrible noise when i hit a bump...I was wondering what parts I would need to replace this seal? I tried looking it up and just get lost in all of the other things....I have found write-ups for the axle being removed while changing ball joints but none by it self to just replace this seal.
[URL] ....
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I am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
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I am doing some work on the truck and need to get the front drive shaft to drop down, I have the four bolts out but I can not get it to move. What am I not doing?
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My t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
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Not sure what caused it to break but my front driveshaft split in half. I had it in 4wd and was doing a K turn to back in my driveway in a snow storm.
I got underneath in the snow (miserable) and wasn't able to come close to getting it off. The bolts holding the shaft onto the t-case will not budge and the tiny 5/16" bolts stripped all my small 1/4" sockets. I'm guessing I need a 3/8" drive 5/16" for front and the rear just spins. Any tricks to getting this off the truck.
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I bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
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I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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I recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
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Bought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
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2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
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