Ford - Aviator :: 2004 - Exhaust Stud Removal?
Aug 11, 2013
I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
View 5 Replies
I have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
View 1 Replies
I started to do my manifold and am 2 and 2. I got 2 out and two broke on top. So far I haven't been able to do anything w the bottom. I have basically seen 2 ways to get the studs out when they break. The first I'd to drill w an ez out and the 2nd is to weld a nut on. I'm not great w a drill and can't weld. I was wondering if using JB weld might be an option. I have never used the stuff but supposedly it's pretty strong. Is there any risk of welding the nut to the head?
View 12 Replies
2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
View 4 Replies
I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
View 5 Replies
We have a 2004 Aviator AWD. 73k miles. Trans has been shuddering on the upshift to OD intermittantly. No codes no other symptoms.
I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and 5-6 quarts of fluid with Mercron V fluid. No metal in pan, fluid was not burned, filter only had a small amount of dirt. Very small amount (fine dust)of metal on the magnet. Drove it about 50 miles and noticed the shudder again this morning. I planned on replacing the fluid in the pan again after some miles and time so as to get most of the 12 or so quarts replaced.
I have no codes or CEL. No flashing OD light either...
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 Aviator with a 5r55S transmission.
O/D light started flashing, difficult to shift gears, MIL came on with P0745 code
I have changed the filter, installed new solenoid block, adjusted bands, topped off fluid with Mercon V. No change in symptoms.
View 1 Replies
Bought an '04 Aviator 2wd on Saturday. ABS light is on almost all of the time, but it has turned off a few times. Pulled a C1155 code. I removed the left front sensor, and there was no dirt, metal, debris, etc in the hole. Before I buy a new sensor, is there a test procedure to follow on the old sensor??
View 2 Replies
I am working on a 2004 aviator 2wd that the abs ratchets on during a normal stop. No codes and all the wheel speed sensors read correctly and match. What happens is the pedal will fall and then hit back up like the abs is ratcheting.
View 3 Replies
My wifes 04 Aviator gives a check backup assist when in reverse. Checked fuse no problem.
View 2 Replies
Late 04 6 liter, I'm in the process of putting my engine back together after doing studs. head gaskets ..etc. Its been awhile since I took it apart, and my memory isn't quiet what it use to be. There's a small stud on the ficm bracket, nearest the firewall and I honestly don't know what mounts to it. Ground wire maybe?
View 5 Replies
Finally getting to my header and exhaust install.
I plan on removing the secondary air injection as I have no provision for it. Will this throw a CEL?
Looks like it goes into a rubber hose and comes around to the top of the intake manifold.
What is the best/cleanest way to cap this off?
View 5 Replies
Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
View 3 Replies
I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
View 2 Replies
I managed to get the drivers side exhaust manifold and all of its bolts off no problem. On the passenger side I had 1 bolt head that was already broken and I have only 1 other that is still holding on for dear life. I've been soaking it in aerokroil for awhile now and no luck. I tried some PB blaster today because I am willing to try anything. I also tried heating up the bolt with a torch and some map gas but not sure if I am heating it up enough or not. Anyways, everything else has been going great, got the uppipes off and the valley, turbo and pedestal all cleaned up good. Just need to get the last whole bolt and broken bolt out so I can install the new manifolds. What I should try to remove the last 2 bolts. How hot should I get the bolt when trying to remove it? Or should I be heating the engine block?
View 12 Replies
I purchased two new exhaust tips for my 2006 sc430 because one of the exhaust tips was slightly bent. I thought by removing the screw near muffler would be all that it took and each one could be pulled off. However after removing the screw from one of them, I could not pull it off.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2003 Lincoln aviator with the 4.6 V-8. When I was seafoaming the car today, afterwards I noticed the truck running a bit rougher, and the truck idles around 500-600 rpms instead of 900-1200 rpms. There was a hose connected to the left valve cover, I pulled it off and there was no change in power or sound or idle. Is the hose a pcv hose, if so, where is the valve on this engine in the aviator, shouldn't it be on the valve cover? Do you think its a vacuum leak cause by the pcv valve/hose or a vacuum leak somewhere else? does aviator 4,6 come with a valve or just a pcv hose?
View 14 Replies
Looking for the location of purge valve on a 2003 aviator ?
View 8 Replies
I have an 03 Aviator with the full-time AWD with about 138,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is reliable and I love it, but I keep noticing a shake and vibration going on, I notice it at almost any speed, I'm pretty sure it gets worse at high speeds and when braking ( especially at high speeds). would this be a transmission problem, a bad cv or u joint? or would it be bad tires or wheel bearings? shocks/struts, rotors?
View 4 Replies
