Ford - Aviator :: 2004 AWD - Shudder Shifting Into OD
Nov 1, 2012
We have a 2004 Aviator AWD. 73k miles. Trans has been shuddering on the upshift to OD intermittantly. No codes no other symptoms.
I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and 5-6 quarts of fluid with Mercron V fluid. No metal in pan, fluid was not burned, filter only had a small amount of dirt. Very small amount (fine dust)of metal on the magnet. Drove it about 50 miles and noticed the shudder again this morning. I planned on replacing the fluid in the pan again after some miles and time so as to get most of the 12 or so quarts replaced.
I have no codes or CEL. No flashing OD light either...
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I had recently purchased a 2003 golf gti AUTOMATIC (with optional shifter) with a 1.8 turbo 4 cylinder engine. The vehicle has 139,000 miles on it. Before purchasing, I had a mechanic come out and look at the vehicle for a pre-purchase inspection, and ran the code P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) which without test driving, told me that is what caused the shift shudder I noticed when I had test driven it a previous day. He told me the coil packs were in good condition by looking at the top of them, and told me if I replace the spark plugs, the issue should go away.
I feel it is important to mention that he had also run codes on the transmission and nothing came up. Taking it home, this morning I had replaced the spark plugs and driven it for about an hour both regularly and aggressively to test it. The problem is still there, and I was really hoping that there is a solution to this problem, because everything else on the car is beautiful, while being my dream car, I just want it to work as well as I know it can. To be more descriptive, when shifting to 3rd the whole car feels basically like it is tripping over itself before successfully shifting.
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I have an 06 FX4 5.4 with the Evolution programmer. I am bringing the truck to Ford tomorrow to trade it in. I took out the programmer after returning the truck to the stock power level. Now the rear end has a wicked shudder when shifting, especially going first to second and much worse under heavy acceleration. The dealership drove the truck before I returned it to stock so the deal is made but if they drive it even a few hundred yards on the lot they will definitely notice it. I reprogrammed it to level 2 and the shudder is gone, but they told me to take the Edge out so what the heck should I do.
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My 2003 Aviator kind of stutters when in auto between gears. Most prevalent from 3 to D when driving regular. If I shift manually and tach it to 4k there is no stutter/vibration. My engine light is on and pretty sure the catalytic converter need to be changed. All new NKG plugs and associated coils. Throttle body clean, 91+ fuel only. Could this me a tranny starting to fail or computer/senor related? No other codes than the bank-2 O2 sensor....
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I have 142k miles on my 2005 RX330 AWD. This week I can feel the transmission slip/shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
My local transmission guy is pretty reasonable but like most salesmen he's going to say rebuild it the entire transmission in lou of something less invasive.
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
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I have a 2004 Aviator with a 5r55S transmission.
O/D light started flashing, difficult to shift gears, MIL came on with P0745 code
I have changed the filter, installed new solenoid block, adjusted bands, topped off fluid with Mercon V. No change in symptoms.
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Bought an '04 Aviator 2wd on Saturday. ABS light is on almost all of the time, but it has turned off a few times. Pulled a C1155 code. I removed the left front sensor, and there was no dirt, metal, debris, etc in the hole. Before I buy a new sensor, is there a test procedure to follow on the old sensor??
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I am working on a 2004 aviator 2wd that the abs ratchets on during a normal stop. No codes and all the wheel speed sensors read correctly and match. What happens is the pedal will fall and then hit back up like the abs is ratcheting.
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My wifes 04 Aviator gives a check backup assist when in reverse. Checked fuse no problem.
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I have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
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My son has a 2013 Fx4 crew cab 4X4 ecoboost with 8500 miles. He says in the morning for the first couple of miles while accelerating gradually the trucks shudders when shifting gears. After a few miles it goes away. Dealer says they can't do anything endless he can duplicate the condition. He went out of town for a few days and left me the truck so I'll drive it in the morning and see what it does.
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My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
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My 2011 ISF has around 50K miles. Recently I noticed that when I shift into 1st from 2nd, usually on approach to a slower curve or slowing down to a light, there appears to be a distinct shudder. It doesn't happen all the time, and it happens regardless of Sport or normal mode.
Right after it shifts to 1st and the RPMs climb (or so it seems), I get 3-4 distinct back and forth movements .. i.e shudder. I think this is a recent phenomenon, as I know shifting into 1st is usually not very smooth, but I don't think I felt this shudder before.
No codes etc ...everything else normal. Don't think the trans is slipping, as car pulls hard and traction control is always busy. Motor mounts? Car is never tracked and driven spiritedly, but never ever abused or tracked. I do enjoy shifting it.
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I bought a 1991 Dodge Shadow from a private owner and he told me it needed a trans mount but upon inspection the mount seems to be fine the car will shudder upon first acceleration and a louder shudder shifting from 1st to 2nd. So I was leaning more towards a cv axle rather than the transmission mount still not sure. Only have this problem under a load 60-65 mph seems to drive fine and no viberations!!!!
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I just picked up my 2016 4 cylinder Camry 2 weeks ago and have 1000 miles on it. I noticed that sometimes when it shifts it shifts a little bit rough, not sure if I would call it a jerk or shudder but its more pronounced to the point I can feel the shifts. Is this normal for this transmission or is this something I should have checked out?
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I have a 2003 Lincoln aviator with the 4.6 V-8. When I was seafoaming the car today, afterwards I noticed the truck running a bit rougher, and the truck idles around 500-600 rpms instead of 900-1200 rpms. There was a hose connected to the left valve cover, I pulled it off and there was no change in power or sound or idle. Is the hose a pcv hose, if so, where is the valve on this engine in the aviator, shouldn't it be on the valve cover? Do you think its a vacuum leak cause by the pcv valve/hose or a vacuum leak somewhere else? does aviator 4,6 come with a valve or just a pcv hose?
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Looking for the location of purge valve on a 2003 aviator ?
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I have an 03 Aviator with the full-time AWD with about 138,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is reliable and I love it, but I keep noticing a shake and vibration going on, I notice it at almost any speed, I'm pretty sure it gets worse at high speeds and when braking ( especially at high speeds). would this be a transmission problem, a bad cv or u joint? or would it be bad tires or wheel bearings? shocks/struts, rotors?
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I have an '03 Aviator that has this really odd stumble / shutter while driving down the road. It loses power and feels like it is going to stall. This is very intermittent and not obvious at idle. Sometimes on hills, sometimes just cruising along. I did some reading and thought maybe I had an ignition coil(s) going bad.
I took the covers off the coils and pulled them out. Six of them looked perfect with one being newly replaced by Ford. Two of them had a thin film of oil mist on them both outside on the rubber boot and inside the rubber boot. I wiped them off and put them back in. There was no oil down in the plug bores and the valve cover gasket looked good. The plugs looked good too.
Is there any way to actually test these? If the problem is intermittent I am not sure if they would fail a test until they got hot from use. I do not have any lights or codes.
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