I am working on a 2004 aviator 2wd that the abs ratchets on during a normal stop. No codes and all the wheel speed sensors read correctly and match. What happens is the pedal will fall and then hit back up like the abs is ratcheting.
View 3 Repliesi have an 04 f250 5.4 4x4 250k miles+ ...the truck has been acting weird lately. I has 0 power...i went to pass an 18 wheeler today at about 15 mph and gave it about half throttle...well it held first gear till about 5 grand then slammed into 2nd...It just has 0 umph ... it wont even consistanly pick up speed at half throttle or over..the rpms will stop ...then pick up...then stop...it always accelerated smoothly....it is bogging really bad...it was downshifting into 3rd today on little overpass hills that it NEVER does that on...something is telling me torque converter BTW no codes and no flashing overdrive light
View 14 RepliesWe have a 2004 Aviator AWD. 73k miles. Trans has been shuddering on the upshift to OD intermittantly. No codes no other symptoms.
I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and 5-6 quarts of fluid with Mercron V fluid. No metal in pan, fluid was not burned, filter only had a small amount of dirt. Very small amount (fine dust)of metal on the magnet. Drove it about 50 miles and noticed the shudder again this morning. I planned on replacing the fluid in the pan again after some miles and time so as to get most of the 12 or so quarts replaced.
I have no codes or CEL. No flashing OD light either...
I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Aviator with a 5r55S transmission.
O/D light started flashing, difficult to shift gears, MIL came on with P0745 code
I have changed the filter, installed new solenoid block, adjusted bands, topped off fluid with Mercon V. No change in symptoms.
Bought an '04 Aviator 2wd on Saturday. ABS light is on almost all of the time, but it has turned off a few times. Pulled a C1155 code. I removed the left front sensor, and there was no dirt, metal, debris, etc in the hole. Before I buy a new sensor, is there a test procedure to follow on the old sensor??
View 2 RepliesMy wifes 04 Aviator gives a check backup assist when in reverse. Checked fuse no problem.
View 2 RepliesI know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
View 14 Replies1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 4.2L 5 speed reg. cab swb. It recently started idling high (which returns to normal at a stop after 3-5 seconds). While in neutral and in motion (coasting) the idle is around 1500-2k (idle=no throttle input from me). The first time it did this it took a while to start (7-10 seconds) and smoked like you wouldnt believe for about ten seconds. Smoke cleared, eyes returned to normal size, heart rate returned to "normal", but the high idle remains. Drives me nuts. No CEL, no codes, just a fat bald man scratching his head and a little nervousness.
View 5 RepliesMy truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
my wife has a 03 wagon 1.8t with a manual, lately she and i have been having problems getting car into second under normal acceleration from a stop.
Clutch is good no slippage problems.
Is it recommended to completely stop the Touareg before shifing from the Sport mode to the Normal driving mode?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Lincoln aviator with the 4.6 V-8. When I was seafoaming the car today, afterwards I noticed the truck running a bit rougher, and the truck idles around 500-600 rpms instead of 900-1200 rpms. There was a hose connected to the left valve cover, I pulled it off and there was no change in power or sound or idle. Is the hose a pcv hose, if so, where is the valve on this engine in the aviator, shouldn't it be on the valve cover? Do you think its a vacuum leak cause by the pcv valve/hose or a vacuum leak somewhere else? does aviator 4,6 come with a valve or just a pcv hose?
View 14 RepliesI found that it is nearly impossible to accelerate from a stop in normal mode without hitting the red bar zone without getting shot.
View 19 RepliesWell I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
Looking for the location of purge valve on a 2003 aviator ?
View 8 RepliesI have an 03 Aviator with the full-time AWD with about 138,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is reliable and I love it, but I keep noticing a shake and vibration going on, I notice it at almost any speed, I'm pretty sure it gets worse at high speeds and when braking ( especially at high speeds). would this be a transmission problem, a bad cv or u joint? or would it be bad tires or wheel bearings? shocks/struts, rotors?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 ford ranger 2.5 automatic. runs fine except when stopping at lights and intersections it stalls. I have changed the MAF, TPS and hasn't made a difference.Truck only has 64,000 miles. What to look at next. no codes...
View 14 RepliesI have an '03 Aviator that has this really odd stumble / shutter while driving down the road. It loses power and feels like it is going to stall. This is very intermittent and not obvious at idle. Sometimes on hills, sometimes just cruising along. I did some reading and thought maybe I had an ignition coil(s) going bad.
I took the covers off the coils and pulled them out. Six of them looked perfect with one being newly replaced by Ford. Two of them had a thin film of oil mist on them both outside on the rubber boot and inside the rubber boot. I wiped them off and put them back in. There was no oil down in the plug bores and the valve cover gasket looked good. The plugs looked good too.
Is there any way to actually test these? If the problem is intermittent I am not sure if they would fail a test until they got hot from use. I do not have any lights or codes.