Ford Aerostar :: Water / Coolant Pump Failure
Sep 18, 2013
This is an update to my Heater Hose to Water Pump Failure post. As it turns out, the water/coolant pump seems to have failed at the same time as the heater hose. I think Ford secretly installed an internal time mechanism to deconstruct certain parts at the same time.
Anyway, in desperation I took the van to the local Ford dealer for an inspection. NOTE: I don't trust most of the locally owned small time shops and national franchises. Half of the time, they don't know what they are talking about.
They said the water pump is toast. And I already knew that! Then they said, because the water pump is attached to the front timing chain cover, they need to replace the gaskets there also, and also the oil pan is attached to the front chain cover, so that needs done, and then they said the radiator is also leaking. What!!!
Then they asked if I would be interested in buying a new or used vehicle. This tool works great. Mine happens to be a left hand fan. The tool is used with the handle on the left. This tool is used to hold Water Pump pulley stationary, while unbolting the fan assembly.
Tomorrow morning is when I finally replace the water pump. Not a lot of tool are needed, except for the stubborn fan clutch. Sockets: 8, 10, 13, 17, except a 22 mm open end wrench for the fan clutch.
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I just wanted to share with you all about a coolant leakage problem I had experienced for a couple of days.
It all started a few days ago when I noticed the temperature gauge needle, which I hardly ever look at, began fluctuating in the hot region. I thought "oh my god" what is wrong? I then stopped at the nearest gas station and added some, I mean a lot, of water. My initial thought was the coolant level was too low.
The following day, I noticed the belts were squealing a bit (at that time I thought it was another vehicle with loose belts, but NO... it was mine making the belt noise). At that time, I did not realize it was because the coolant was leaking onto the belt(s). But then when I made a stop at a location for a couple of minutes, I returned to my Aerostar and noticed a trail of coolant leaking from underneath the vehicle.
I thought "oh my god" the water pump is busted! I then took it to a local repair shop and inquired about the cost to replace the water pump.
But after I inspected the vehicle more thoroughly, I noticed some dryed out green colored stuff where the heater hose connects to the water pump. I then removed the heater hose from the water pump and discovered to my surprise a tiny hole had developed where the hose is expanded from 5/8 to 3/4 inches.
My plan to repair the problem is to purchase about 6" of 3/4" heater hose (to connect it to the water pump), and a Gates or Dorman plastic adapter reduction fitting that reduces it to 5/8", in order to plug it into the factory original old heater hose.
This is an emergency repair. While inspecting the heater hose, I discovered an electrical connection that goes no where.
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1994 - 3.0 .... Back behind the water pump there is a stream of coolant what could that be. Water pump has been replaced earlier last year I thought that fixed it,there has always been a mystery leak..
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I bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.
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Actually 2 very similar questions about my Prius 2007.
1. My water pump was replaced by a dealer due to failure some half a year ago at 95,000 miles. Yesterday, after oil change (98,000), I was told it is recommended to replace engine coolant. Does this sound right? Don't they change coolant when replacing the pump?!
2. Identical question about HV pump. It was replaced at 80,000. Now they recommend do change the coolant for hybrid system. Don't they have to do it when replacing the pump?
I want to do everything necessary to maintain the car. But don't want to spend money for something that is not needed.
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I got a code for Fuel pump secondary circuit failure, how do you fix it? 1990 Aerostar 4.0 2wd with A/T and A/C
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My ICE failed to start on a wooded forest road -- after the car had sat under a fir tree for a day or three it ended up starting and all the warning lights went away. I ended up taking it to the dealer though and while they replaced a leaking water pump, never found any cause for the ICE failure.
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2010 GTI. Surely this must be just one heck of a freak occurance - never heard of a water pump failing so soon (actually, I've never had one fail personally). Anyway, I now get to experience the joys of the VW parts delivery system.
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Had the Check Hybrid System and master warning light come on today. Took it to the dealer, who, after a couple hours, told me that my "Hybrid Water Pump" needed to be replaced.
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It's been over 90 degrees. Triangle lit up with check engine and I know the inverter coolant pump is a common failure, so hoping that is the culprit. I could take to O'Reillys and scan it to see if I get related codes...but don't want to drive until fixed. On my previous gen 1 prius the pump failed and it drove poorly...lacked power (from what I remember). Maybe even cut off once or twice.
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Prius 2009 inverter coolant pump failure 51,300 miles....
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1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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My 92 Explorer 4WD has a coolant leak somewhere at the front of the engine above the water pump. I assume it's the lower intake manifold gasket leaking. The engine has 170k miles. I'm also seeing a small amount of white smoke, possibly steam when the engine is running. It's somewhat heavy when I start it up but mostly goes away once warm, so I suppose it could be steam, but could be coolant from either a head gasket leak or lower intake leak.
I also get a lot of water from the exhaust dripping on to the floor and the smell of the exhaust could be that of coolant, it's hard to tell. There is no coolant in the oil. I was wondering if I should go ahead and change the head gaskets while I have the intake out. Is there anyway to be certain the head gaskets are fine? I'd hate to change the intake gasket to find out there's a small leak in one of the head gaskets.
One other thing: I failed emissions because my CO was too high, but my HC and NOx were very low. Could this be an indication of coolant entering the combustion chamber? Just wondering why my CO was so high yet everything else passed (Massachusetts emissions).
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My 2007 Prius with 162k miles had an Inverter Coolant Pump Failure Monday 6.5 hours from home when my wife was driving it home from a trip. Red Triangle, (!), vsc, and check engine light. She was able to make it about 20 minutes to a dealer where it was diagnosed. Luckily no further damage was done to vehicle. Yes, she should have stopped but continued on since car was driving OK.
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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I replaced a water pump on a customers 2013 5.0L truck this week. The bearing was totally shot and lost all the coolant. Truck only had 46000 miles on it, is this common?
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Noticed about a gallon of coolant on my floor the last 4 days. Got it pressure tested and was told bad water pump. Had it changed with timing belt and tensioners. Got home, next day, same thing. Coolant everywhere. Also, do I really need to put G12++ in as coolant? I've been using it but the shop put some green stuff in it.
I have a 2005, V8, Phaeton with 181,000 miles. Also, my car overheated, got the coolant too hot warning, 270 on gauge, let it sit 5 minutes, no problem afterwards. Should the thermostat have been changed also?
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I replaced my timing belt, tensioner and water pump last weekend because I noticed I was leaking coolant from the water pump. The other day I popped my hood after driving and notice the reservoir bubbling a little bit because it sounded like the coolant was boiling and the line coming into the top of the reservoir felt hotter than normal. I opened the cap slowly and never heard any pressure release. I figured it was air in the line somewhere so I tried to work the air out. It sounded like the air came out and I took it for a drive and I finally heard pressure release after 3 different attempts. I opened the cap later when it was cool and noticed that the coolant was still at the original level.
Then the next day I was driving and came to a stop and noticed white smoke coming out when I gave it gas. It still drove fine though. I pulled over and opened the cap slowly but didn't hear any pressure release. I put in a little bit of radiator sealant and it seemed to do the trick.
The car has never overheated and there's no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. The heat also seems to be working correctly and my fans come.
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So I parked on an incline last night for ~an hour or so, and suddenly my coolant light came on and my reservoir was completely empty. Sure enough, all the coolant had leaked out of the car. I am sure it's the water pump, but it doesn't seem to be a complete failed one because I picked up and filled my car's reservoir back up today and it hasn't leaked at all.
My guess is the pump isn't bolted on right and on the incline, the gasket is breaking it's seal, or some oil dripped down onto it when on the incline and the gasket swelled.
Nonetheless, my dealership is covering it on Friday, and they said they finally are making them with metal housings instead of plastic, and recalls should be going out soon (win for the MKVI crowd).
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Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
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