Ford Aerostar :: Warm Engine Idle Shake
May 25, 2005
Here's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
View 11 Replies
I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
View 10 Replies
4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 Replies
I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
View 17 Replies
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
View 14 Replies
My 230,000km 4.0 Litre will rattle (Only engine warm) when backing off the throttle such as decelerating slightly in preparation to turn off highway. ONLY when the oil is warm currently using 20/50 oil due to this rattle (improved situation) and if I drive just a certain way, I can avoid the rattle by going straight to negative deceleration from accelerating. When accelerating with any force there is NEVER a rattle. however if the tranny shifts at top rpm for your foots position on the gas, it'll rattle just before the shift, once in a higher gear the force of accelerating again or positive drivetrain force, prevents rattle it seems. SOUNDS like one tappet. or one of something. Cold engine cold oil NO rattle in any throttle position. Warm engine at idle sound will be there but not a clattery rattle just a tick/knock sound steady and I'm sure half engine speed.
View 5 Replies
Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
View 9 Replies
Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
View 7 Replies
Here's what's done to the car so far:
Evoms CAI
Autotech HPFP Insert
UM Fully Loaded Stage 2
Magnaflow Catback
R8 Coilpacks
Now my problem lies in the fact that the car has an unusual "loping" idle once it's warmed up. I noticed it very slightly when I first installed the catback simply because that exhaust is louder than stock. Now with the tune it seems to be even more noticible and ocasionally the engine will stumble upon a warm startup. I've pulled up VCDS and looked at the timing measuring blocks during idle and it varies between 0 and 13.5 BTDC/ATDC, the lowest the revs go is about 700 and the the car idles most of the time at about 800. A few hundred miles ago there was a code for Fuel pressure too high (P0088) and an o2 sensor reading too rich (P2271), I saved said codes and cleared them and they have not returned.
View 8 Replies
Recently I have been experiencing some rough and low idles with my 1MZ-FE 05' Camry. The car runs idles perfectly fine and drops to the correct idle when cold, however if the engine has been running at normal temperature and started again soon after the idle drops extremely low until the throttle is opened.
I have cleaned the throttle body with with throttle body cleaner a number of times, although I haven't taken the IAC valve out and cleaned it separately. I have also heard that the Engine Coolant Temp valve may be going bad. Could my symptoms fit this?
I had a dodgy EGR sensor not long ago that was giving me rough idles on a cold start, however I managed to mitigate that problem a by cleaning simply removing the sensor and giving it a quick clean. I don't think that this is the cause but I can't be sure.
I haven't had the spark plugs or fuel filter changed in a while although I'm unsure that these would be the problem if the idle was rough and low only when the engine was warm.
View 12 Replies
After almost 9 years, 130K miles on my 2000 GLX wagon 5-sp., for the last 6 months I'm noticing an increasing oily "smell" when at idle after the engine is warm. Other posts suggest it might be a leak in rear cam seals or valve cover gasket dripping small amounts of oil down on the exhaust system. There's been no visible oil leak when the car is parked and it does NOT "use" oil between every 5K changes. Is replacing the valve cover gaskets a job within the reach of a moderately experienced DIYer?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
View 2 Replies
My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
View 1 Replies
Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
View 1 Replies
I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
View 9 Replies
98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
View 6 Replies
I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
View 2 Replies
Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.
View 2 Replies
Truck all of the sudden out of no where started to shake at idle my first thought was that it is a miss. Then on hard acceleration blows black smoke with NO tune on at the time, plugged reader in and got code P0278 cylinder 6 contribution/balance. I'm assuming it is a dirty nozzle on the injector. Shake/miss clears out at about 900-1000 rpm. Truck as 247k on it. 50k on injectors. Has ported and o ringed heads, studded, and fully deleted, with bullet proof ficm. Would my assumption be correct?
View 6 Replies
