Ford Aerostar :: Vacuum Leak - Small Crack In The Hose
Mar 7, 2012
Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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I popped a code this morning PO442 emission control evap [small leak]. Would this be a vacuum hose leak? I did both heads about a month ago. Any way to narrow down the troubleshooting on this problem?
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Front diff does not leak but seems to get alot of oil coming out vent hose. enough to make a mess and require more top offs.
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I've noticed a spring of coolant shooting out of a connector that I'm assuming is connected to the bottom radiator hose via a smaller hose. Is there a hose that splits off the bottom radiator hose that is smaller. The leak is not coming from the hose, but the connector it's hooked to. Is this a replaceable part? What is it for?
97' Aerostar... 3.0 V6 with AC
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I'm having a little bit of trouble finding the cause of a minor problem on my 06 Explorer with the 4.0 V6 engine. When the engine is running cold at idle, it runs a bit rough and idle speed is high as well. When fully warm, the engine runs and idles fine. I hooked up a scan tool and there are no pending or stored codes. The live data looks ok except the long term fuel trim which is at about +10% on both banks during idle, indicating a lean condition. Short term fuel is right around zero. The MAF and TPS values seem to respond fine when applying steady throttle.
So I assume there must be a fairly small vacuum leak somewhere that the PCM is able to compensate for since the long term is only at 10. I didn't see anything obviously wrong, the vacuum lines look fine along the passenger side near the firewall. I sprayed a bit of throttle cleaner along the hoses, intake manifold and gasket area, but could not spot any vacuum leaks. Any other common areas to check for leaks on the 4.0 V6? Perhaps there is something I am missing?
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Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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I had my LS at the dealer this morning getting the fuel regulator recall and they noticed that my radiator had a very small leak at the nipple where the overflow hose is connected. From what I've read, this is a very common issue that I probably caused by leaning on the fitting at some point while working on the car.
I'm no stranger to DIY and am willing to take this on. I'm looking at replacements online and I see two brass fittings at the bottom. Are those for transmission cooler lines? If so, wouldn't replacing the radiator cause the loss of some transmission fluid?
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I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
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I recently purchased a used 1999 F250 Super Duty with about 150k miles on it. The truck runs great and I have no complaints but there are a few things that need to be taken care of. It looks like there is a very small fuel leak where the filler neck ties into the rubber hose that runs into the fuel tank. There is a thin film of diesel along the side of the tank, on the leaf spring, the air bag and various other places. Nothing is dripping. I want to drop the tank and replace the hose. The Haynes manual says to depressurize the whole fuel system--is this really necessary if I don't plan on doing anything to the system aside from dropping the tank?
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I drive a 2003 Jeep Liberty with 151,000 miles on it. Since this problem concerns my cooling system, I'll give you some background info:
I bought the car with 83K. Have done coolant changes at 90K, 120K, and 150K. The last service was done immediately after my water pump crapped out. I had a new water pump installed and had the cooling system completely flushed and refilled with Mopar HOAT coolant (per manufacturer's specs).
Today, I brought the jeep in to have the spark plugs replaced and have some warped brake rotors replaced. My mechanic told me that he also found a small crack in my radiator. He said it was near the top of it. I can see evidence of fluid squirting onto the upper radiator hose - there's some white residue on there. There are no cracks in the hose itself. Just the one my mechanic found near the top of the radiator itself.
Here's my question. I'm due for an oil change in 2000 miles. I'm wondering if I can wait until the oil change is due to have him replace the radiator. Would it be smart to just buy a jug of coolant and keep an eye on the level in my reservoir and top it off with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water as needed? Or should I go ahead and just have him do the radiator ASAP? I drive about 30 highway miles round trip to and from work every day.
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I just picked up a BMP 20th ann last weekend after looking for a nice clean one for a while. I love the way the car looks compared to my stock 1.8t gti, and I am also loving the Recaro seats. The 20th is all stock, and i have a few minor things in mind for it just to get the car to look how i want. I also had a few questions... do tires rub against the front when turning sharply? The car has stock suspension... also the front lip has a small crack and i was wondering if it was worth it to get it fixed or to buy a new one? And there is an annoying squeaking sound coming from the steering column area...
[URL]...
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Where I might be able to find a vacuum hose routing diagram for a 2.9? I have searched high and low but with no luck.
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I simply cannot find a proper and complete vacuum diagram for this 2001 Escape V6. (The sticker has been removed from the car.)
The car is hard to start - very hard, but once warm it manages to run ok. There vacuum hose way down low, on the back of the block and under the starter, impossible to see but if my fingers aren't lying it's very near the knock sensor? This hose is rotten and disconnected at the top - it's just laying there kinda under the throttle body.
For the life of me I cannot a) identify what the hose goes to and b) figure out where to plug it back in. There are no empty ports I can find anywhere within reach of the floppy end of the hose.
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I just wanted to share with you all about a coolant leakage problem I had experienced for a couple of days.
It all started a few days ago when I noticed the temperature gauge needle, which I hardly ever look at, began fluctuating in the hot region. I thought "oh my god" what is wrong? I then stopped at the nearest gas station and added some, I mean a lot, of water. My initial thought was the coolant level was too low.
The following day, I noticed the belts were squealing a bit (at that time I thought it was another vehicle with loose belts, but NO... it was mine making the belt noise). At that time, I did not realize it was because the coolant was leaking onto the belt(s). But then when I made a stop at a location for a couple of minutes, I returned to my Aerostar and noticed a trail of coolant leaking from underneath the vehicle.
I thought "oh my god" the water pump is busted! I then took it to a local repair shop and inquired about the cost to replace the water pump.
But after I inspected the vehicle more thoroughly, I noticed some dryed out green colored stuff where the heater hose connects to the water pump. I then removed the heater hose from the water pump and discovered to my surprise a tiny hole had developed where the hose is expanded from 5/8 to 3/4 inches.
My plan to repair the problem is to purchase about 6" of 3/4" heater hose (to connect it to the water pump), and a Gates or Dorman plastic adapter reduction fitting that reduces it to 5/8", in order to plug it into the factory original old heater hose.
This is an emergency repair. While inspecting the heater hose, I discovered an electrical connection that goes no where.
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1991 aerostar 4.0 ... My van was running well til last week.it allegedly has 77000 miles on it. It started running really rough within a 50 mile period. I've quit driving it til I am sure. I am not harming it. I put a vacuum gauge on it. It wildly fluctuates between 3 and 7 pounds at idle. I've tried plugging the four vacuum lines one at a time to eliminate the accessories as the problem.the check engine light is off and my scan tool shows no codes.i unhooked the exhaust at the manifolds to make sure the cats aren't clogged.it doesn't have egr. There's no water in the oil or bubbles in the radiator.i have a compression tester but id like to avoid trying to get to the plugs unless necessary.
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My 2005 Freestar (not the Freestyle) a/c is working properly except that it is only blowing through the defrost. I've read other posts about it being a leaking vacuum system on other ford vehicles that cause this problem.
1) I'd like to confirm that this Freestar a/c works on a vacuum system to open the a/c duct doors.
2) If it is, where are the vacuum hoses located? I'd like to check them to see if they are connected or if they have a hole.
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I have a idle problem that happens on and off. with my 89 f250 351, it revs at 1900 rpm and when I unplug the vacuum hose to the map sensor it idles about 700 rpm. I've already replaced the map sensor and it does the same thing. i cant find any vacuum leaks anywhere and when i unplug the connector to the IAC nothing happens it continues to rev high.
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Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
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My parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
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My '95 Aerostar 4.0 no longer likes to shift out of first gear. It will if I accelerate to maybe 25mph and completely get off the throttle for a few seconds. (It also revs freely at full-throttle kick down, as though it was in neutral.) A fluid and filter change didn't work, so I dug into forum posts. I found the vacuum modulator, and there's no ATF in the vacuum line, but it's an adjustable one which has me baffled...
The modulator has a thumb wheel on the outside of it. It will unscrew completely - and then it comes off, with a pin attached to it. This is very different from the ones I've seen pictures of here, where the pin is moved by the diaphragm. Is this the same pin, or some kind of preload device for the actual pin farther inside?
There's enough else wrong with the Aerostar that I'm not willing to sink very much more money into it. It'll run as is, as long as I'm careful. I'm just trying to get a few more miles out of it... might a regular, non-adjustable modulator?
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