Any hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
We've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
View 14 RepliesI have to replace the upper control arm on my 05 f150 4x4. I've been looking around the site and didn't see anything. Is there directions posted anywhere on the procedure? or if the strut assembly has to be removed? If so do I have to compress the spring first?
View 7 RepliesI am replacing the driver side up front control arm as the ball joint has gone bad. Got a febi/bilstein arm and all the necessary bolts from ecs. Lifted up the car, front pinch bolt is seized of course so it is currently soaking in pbblaster. The nut came off fine, which I've read doesn't always happen.
On to my question, I loosened up the rear bolt on the control arm, but it has no room to come out? Ive been searching through old threads both on here and passat world for a diy. I found the one on audi world that many people link to. And it seems to skip over this little part.
As of now the only option I can think of is to cut the head off the bolt, and push force the rest of the bolt out. But then to reinstall the bolt would have to go in on the other side? I have a picture to hopefully better illustrate what I am talking about.
2001 Ford Explorer Sport (not sport trac) 4.0l 5r55e 2wd.. Ok so I picked up a sweet deal of an explorer yesterday.
Sure enough I get her home and find out she needs both the rear body mount bushings replaced. Ok no sweat so I go to autozone...they cant find them... Ok I look in the book for replacement procedure... Nothing, To YouTube! ...nope nothing there either.
I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
View 6 RepliesI'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
The driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper. I started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
I cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support. Now I am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in.
I have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge. What am I missing here?
I'm pulling my control arms to replace the bushings (they were completely split) and I'm trying to get the right one off. How the heck did you get the boot out on the front passenger side?! See pics. The bolt jams right up to the oil pan. The only way I see it is to remove the pan. Is this right?!?!
View 6 Repliesmy problem is this: my lower control arm bushing, front but (rear bushing) unfastens alright but i cannot get the bolt out no matter what i do. it just keeps spinning and will not come out the control arm has snapped itself so needs to be replaced. now is there a secret way (lol) to get this out iam about to become on nerve pills because of this lol. it just keeps turning on me and will not come out the other nut/bolt came out without any problems.
and from the manufactures book the actual gm book 375.00 paid for this darn book
anyway it says that these bolts have got to be placed back in from the inside (both of them) meaning they aren't supposed to be placed back one one way the the other way. a guy has told me its okay to be doing it the way where i place it back in to wiggle it back and forth to get it back in but the gm manual says to put both bolts back in the exact same way from inside the control arm out and the both nuts to be facing outside. and even when i took them both off the one was bolt end from the outside in and the other from the inside out? i have a 1997 3.1 front wheel drive. and i have only 1 lower control arm on each side
So I have to replace them since I have this rattling in the rear and my mechanic has diagnosed it to be the rear bushings...
View 1 RepliesAlright, after taking everything off and replacing all the joints/bushings, I am left with the control arm. (it hasn't been easy either)
I am at the control arm (Passenger side) and i got the rear bushing loose. I managed to brake the front one loose, with a lot of force, but it spins. I see in HMA that it has a bolt, or so it appears, but how on earth do you get to that?
I took my Touareg in for an oil change. When the tech lifted it up, he called me and pointed our a bushing on the lower control arm which was leaking oil or some fluid. I touched it and it seemed like oil of some sort. It was like black or something near that color. He told me that maybe it was some kind of a hydraulic bushing and the seal had gone bad. The oil was not coming from anywhere else, but the bottom of the bushing.
I took it in to service and the tech couldn't really explain where the oil was coming from, but told me that that bushing did not have any type of fluid in it. While I had the Touareg in, the air suspension compressor finally got replaced. I feel like I'm actually driving a luxury car now. It feels so much nicer! That immediately got rid of most of my cabin rattles. Boy, was my ride bad before. That was in "comfort". I can't begin to describe how horrible it was in sport.
They replaced the dual horn, because mine went bad. They also replaced the wood trim on the driver side door. They kept ordering the wrong color. My original Myrtle was almost chocolate in color. The ones that they get now are much lighter. Just about all my wood has now been changed. The only problem now is that for some reason or another, the headlight washer isn't working. I'm wondering if they disconnected a plug while working on the horn.
So, after about a year, I've finally got just about everything done. Now all I need are new tires and an alignment. Speaking of alignments, I've noticed that my Touareg is the only vehicle I've ever driven that will continue to drive in a circle with the wheels turned, even when you let go of the wheel... while going forward. In other words, if you turn the wheel enough and accelerate, the wheel will tend to turn further until it locks. Other cars will straighten out as soon as you release the wheel, if you are going forward (not in reverse). Ok, there are 3 questions on this post: The deal with the bushing, the deal with the headlight washer and the deal with the wheel that doesn't straighten itself out.
I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
View 9 RepliesI am having an issue with the car not feeling stable on the highway or at speeds over 50mph when I am on a curve and go over a roadwork patch. The cabin of the car seems to float way too much to the side, almost like hydroplaining although the wheels stay put on the road.
After describing this to a mechanic, he said it sounds like my lower control arm bushings are gone. He looked at them and confirmed it, the rubber bushings that control the side to side action are cracked and worn out. He said that he is unable to just replace the bushing and has to special order the whole arm from the dealer (approx 200$ each arm).
I went to get a second opinion and another mechanic basically told me the same thing except the price on the part went down to 175 per arm with 2-3 hours labor.
2001 F-150 4x4 5.4L. I am going to replace the upper control arms this weekend. I noticed that there are regular bolts with no cam washer installed. I have read conflicting info on whether the cam washer set up is needed. Do I have to install these or can I just put the old bolts back in just like they are. When I replaced the uppers on my 1997 T-Bird I put in new bolts but there was no mention of a cam washer setup for it anywhere that I saw. What would be the problems if I just reinstalled the old bolts. Right now the truck drives straight as an arrow but the lower ball joint on the driver side is shot so I will be replacing it also.
View 2 RepliesI have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
View 4 RepliesI recently came home to a shattered back window on the lift gate. We were gone on vacation for a week and I didn't notice it for a couple days after we were back. The van was backed up to my second garage door. Not really sure how it happened. Nothing was taken from the van and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood, so I don't think it was vandals. Only thing I can contribute it too is the heat (it had gotten pretty hot in WI while we were gone).
So I'm in the process of replacing it. After a pretty good search I was able to obtain a used window from a junk yard. The glass is in good shape but it is missing 3 of the 'studs' that are imbedded in the rubber molding. I have the 3M Window Weld butyl 'tape' (3/8") to seal/adhere it to the fiberglass. Will the remaining studs plus the tape be enough to permanently keep the window in place?
If not, I can salvage the studs from the old molding but then I have to figure out how to glue it to the new window. I'm not sure what I can use to do this. I've considered JB Weld, Epoxy, super glue or something like rubber cement. It looks like the old studs were ripped straight out leaving kind of a void in the hard rubber molding. The bottom of the void is I believe rubber (not glass).
I was wondering how do i replace the outer tie rod on a 95 ford aerostar awd 4.0L. I have enough for the parts but not extra tools. Need a tutorial on how to do it?
View 6 RepliesJust today,when replacing the UIM on a naturally aspirated 95 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 with a Dorman upgraded type from my local auto parts, I ran into an issue. When following specified torquing sequences and specs , be very careful with the 1 long stud (#7), as it will split your new manifold there if you try to torque to 89 in/lbs. Took 1st back for replacement ,and the second new one started to split at the same place. Was using a brand new Craftsman in/lb torque wrench set correctly and following instructions exactly. I've seen a lot of excellent info on this UIM issue with the GM 3.8 ltr 1995-2004 years, but never this issue with the replacement ones. If I have to change this again will definitely go with the aluminum one.
View 1 RepliesWhat's inside that electric clutch? Mine will not lock up. I checked the sensors, the solenoid resistance - all good. Hotwired the thing to bypass the control module - no avail. It flashes a code 9 which is a mechanical problem but I was told that the clutch is so simple there is nothing that can be broken. Does it have some kinda lining that can be worn?
View 14 Replies