97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
View 4 RepliesI noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
2005 I4 SE Camry USA built. Got a squeak from the rears the other day and pulled the tires to check. Inside pads (ones against the caliper cylinder) on both rear wheels were at the metal but the outside pads were still not down to the little stripe down the middle of the pads, let alone the wear indicator clip. I pulled slide pins and there were not stuck. The calipers retracted very easily, so not gunked up or dragging. I ordered a new hardware kit with the new dust boots and rubber slide pin parts. I am using good Permatex disc brake grease. I am going to have to have the rotors turned, but aside from replacing the rubber parts the only other thing I can think of is slide pin replacement.
View 2 RepliesI just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
View 5 RepliesOverall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
I have a 2006 SC 430 with 20,000 miles on it The (run flat) tires are wearing on the inside and the dealer says that they need replacing The local tire shop agrees, and will sell the tires to me for less, and also throw in an alignment He says that alignment is the reason for the uneven wear But the dealer says that the wheel on my 2006 SC 430 cannot be aligned, and that the new ones will probably wear the same way
View 12 RepliesI had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
View 10 RepliesI am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
View 7 RepliesThe brake dust on my front rims seems next to impossible to remove. Truck is a 10 F150 4x4 Lariat. What are people using to remove this? I expect to get in and scrub, but don't want to damage the rims as well.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 4x4 that has brake dust on the front wheels after only 3000 miles. I have tried to find ceramic pads to replace the semi-metalic pads that are causing the issue. There is no listing for replacement pads that I can find. My question is will 2015 pads fit the 2016? What is the actual part numbers to see if they are the same. This is just one of the problems with having an early build vehicle.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT using the Futura GLS 225/70/R15 tires. The vehicle decal in the driver side door listed the recommended tire pressure to be 30 PSI. I have tried to maintain religiously along with proper balance and alignment. However, I've always had the experience of the tires wearing out more along the middle which seemed to indicate over inflation. The sections on either side of the center line seemed to wear out normally. For this reason I've had to turn in the tire prematurely as they become unsafe. These tires were made by Coopers Tire and distributed by Pep Boys. Have i been using poor quality tires all along? Do I need to lower my tire pressure below the 30 PSI recommended? If I do that wouldn't I be risking overheating and/or affecting my gas mileage?
View 13 RepliesHave a lot of noise when braking? If I stop the car quickly with heavy braking I generally have no squeaking until about the last second when I am letting back up off the pedal.If I am just stopping slowly, the brakes will squeak for the entire distance of the stop.I don't have excessive brake dust showing up on my rims. And it doesn't really work if I wash the rims and spray off the pads and rotors. It may squeak less for the first time braking but will be back to its normal self by the time I brake the second time. I am at 8K miles right now and I'm pretty sure this has been going on since the beginning.
View 3 RepliesI have an 2011 Ecoboost SCAB and the front brake dust is ruining my chrome package wheels. The rears are fine. Ceramic or low dust pads??
View 14 RepliesI have after market chrome wheel and stock brake pads. The brake pad dust is corroding the chrome. Is their a brake pad I can use so it doesn't happen? Ive been told ceramic pads is the way to go.. The wheels are RBPs. Have a new set of RBPs coming in to replace, also what about pad covers? I tow a 29' boat and the rest is highway miles..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
I just had my 10k service and noticed my two front tires still had a significant amount of brake dust and the rear tires did not. I always have more brake dust on the front than the rear and was the case when I dropped the car off. The service guy said they rotated from front to back but that didn't happen. I was under the impression they moved front to back and vice versa. What is the standard rotation for tires at the prescribed service intervals?
View 7 RepliesMy brake wear sensor keeps going off even though my brake pads are fine. I guess there is a short in the line somewhere. I know you can loop the indicator at the brake pad but if I have a short in the line this will not work I have had someone look for the short but after a couple hundred dollars they were not successful. Can you have the dealer turn off this indicator in the computer so it no longer reports the status of your brake pads?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Camry SE which I leased brand new from a dealership in Ottawa. It has about 35,000 KMs on it. After my last regular maintenance at the dealership (32K oil/filter change with tire rotation etc.), I started noticing a sound coming from the tires. The sound is like low pitch boom boom boom boom. I tool it to the dealdership and they told me there is uneven wear on the tire which is normal for Camry SEs because they have wider tires that easily scallop during hard cornering.
Firstly, I do not buy that explanation because it's not the first car I have driven with a little wider tires. Secondly, I do not drive rough as most of the times I have my kids in the car with me. Lastly, I would think that if you are selling sports tuned cars, you would choose appropriate tires for it so buyers can drive it like a sports car.
I wonder why the situation became noticeable after the tire rotation. According to the rep at the dealership, all 4 tires have uneven wear so should I not have noticed it before the rotation?