Ford Aerostar :: Sliding Door Eventually Drop Down And Back A Few Millimeters - Alignment?
Oct 6, 2013
One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
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Have a '93 Aerostar that had something roll up against inside sliding side door and must have nudged it out of alignment. Broke off outside door handle, took off inside panel and tried prying, pushing, kicking and pulling rods, handle, linkage and anything I could get at. Any way to get it open, so I can re-align the catch mechanism??? I have tried everything I could to "muscle it" open....
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Had upper control arm bushings replaced in June. Van has been pulling slightly to the right. Assumed it could be the tire since the front tires were due for replacement. Took it yesterday for two new tires and it still has slight pull to the right.
Here's the rub. The chain shop that did the work has since replaced their alignment machine and the new one does not have the specs for vehicles earlier than 2000. The machine also doesn't have the capability for manual input of the specs.
The manager has found a competitor that has an older machine and has arranged to pay for the alignment which I consider over the top. Evidently this is a trend we can expect to continue because in a city the size of Tampa, he could find only one shop with an alignment machine capable of alignment on an Aerostar.
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As listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
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Proud new owner of a 2001 7.3....today. The previous owner installed Warn standard hubs. I assume they work same as OEM with the exception that I have to get out and lock them, right? Also, when I test drove it, and after locking them, I engaged to 4x4 button and the 4x4 engaged and worked. However, when I disengaged my AC went to defrost just like my old 7.3. The AC eventually came back. Is this normal? I think it also went to defrost when I engaged. The AC does come back after a couple minutes after disengaging.
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I have a 99 1.8t and my sunroof motor is dead when i try to manually shut it, it just keeps sliding back . How to properly shut it manually if it's raining outside.
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Not sure what's up with my car at the moment guys, but it seems. Whenever I go above about 55mph it feels as if the car is sliding back and forth. Its most noticeable at about 65mph where you can see the speedometer nudge backwards and forwards maybe 2/3mph at a time. I'm not sure if the engine is doing this but it does feel like it stops the starts then stop and starts etc. I'd say its also more noticeable in cruise control also. Car is an automatic 2.0L engine ...
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It appears that my drivers side low beam on my 08 prius shuts off from time to time. It seems to be during the rain, or damp weather. how can i figure out where the break in the wire is, if it is not clearly visible, OR is there a common site that separates in this model.
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As I'm driving my 2007 Santa Fe with the A/C turned on, it will randomly turn off. I'll try to push the button to turn it back on and it won't turn back on, I wait try it again and eventually it turns back on. There are times when I'm driving without the A/C on and it kicks on by itself. After about 3months of this weird on and off, my A/C now will NOT turn on. The other day my friend gave the glove compartment a kick and it miraculously turned on. There was even an instance where I was driving over bumps in the street and my A/C finally kicked on and even when I've hit the brake hard it's turned on. I want to get this fixed but do not have the cash right now to take it to a mechanic or the dealership. Would this have something to do with the compressor? Is it electronic?
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The middle sliding seat has jammed and I cannot get it back into the regular sitting position. I don't see any obvious obstructions, but there are a couple of springs not attached, and I may be missing a connecting rod.
Any pictures of how a "normal" mechanism should look like?
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My driver seat has started moving on its own, sliding back and reclining. 1 have a 2008 Azera, 45,000 mi
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I can not find details on adjusting the stops/sliders/ apparatus in this power sliding door mechanisms in the Haynes manual.
How to re-align or adjust these things? mine is not latching properly at the rear securing point 100% of the time.
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I have been having to add 1-2 quarts of oil every 2-3 days. I have noticed the back of the engine wet, but have seen no visible leaks unless the engine runs then it drips. Does it sound like a valve cover gasket problem or a rear main seal?
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I recently came home to a shattered back window on the lift gate. We were gone on vacation for a week and I didn't notice it for a couple days after we were back. The van was backed up to my second garage door. Not really sure how it happened. Nothing was taken from the van and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood, so I don't think it was vandals. Only thing I can contribute it too is the heat (it had gotten pretty hot in WI while we were gone).
So I'm in the process of replacing it. After a pretty good search I was able to obtain a used window from a junk yard. The glass is in good shape but it is missing 3 of the 'studs' that are imbedded in the rubber molding. I have the 3M Window Weld butyl 'tape' (3/8") to seal/adhere it to the fiberglass. Will the remaining studs plus the tape be enough to permanently keep the window in place?
If not, I can salvage the studs from the old molding but then I have to figure out how to glue it to the new window. I'm not sure what I can use to do this. I've considered JB Weld, Epoxy, super glue or something like rubber cement. It looks like the old studs were ripped straight out leaving kind of a void in the hard rubber molding. The bottom of the void is I believe rubber (not glass).
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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Finally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
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It's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
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I have a 98 i just took it up on a trade. The sliding door on passengers side its automatic it wont open i hear something clicking but its not going. Other problem is the windshield wipers only work on high...
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Long story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
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We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
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2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
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