Ford Aerostar :: Rubber On Metal Like A Flat Tire - CV Axle Broken
Feb 11, 2011
Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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98 Ford Escort SE... Was changing out fuel filter and noticed the bottom (filter sets upright) snap holder the broke. Would I be ok with just cutting off some of the metal line and adding flex/rubber and using clamps?
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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I noticed something hanging from the rear suspension / passenger side, and took a look.
two pieces of some rubber / neoprene-looking stuff were hanging, it seems they are part of some rubber spring "isolator" at the top of the spring??
is this "isolator" a replaceable part? I've been hearing a noise at the rear and now I know where it is coming from. Here's a picture of what fell off:
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I unstuck my front axles yesterday and while under the car spinning the front axles freely and enjoying my easy fix, I noticed a rubber seal (a thick squared edge round rubber seal) sitting loose and spinning freely. Its next to the axle joint, right before it disappears into the housing.
I'm guessing this is a dust seal of some kind. There is no fluid leaking out...
I'm wondering if I can just press fit this thing back into place or do I have to take the whole front wheel assembly (hub, bearing, axle, etc) to get the seal back into place.
I'm wondering if it broke off from a larger seal or if this is the whole thing? You can see how the seal isn't sitting quite straight. It actually just spins around.
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Well, today I was checking the oil in my 1989 Ford Aerostar and noticed that there was more than just oil on my dipstick! I noticed a few small little metal shavings on the dipstick! They looked kinda like tiny pieces of hair, and there were only a few. What this means? I don't hear any noise from the engine (but then again I usually drive with loud music so I may be missing something). I have been trying to listen to the engine recently though. The vehicle seems to drive good, no overheating. The oil itself is quite black, in fact it looks like chocolate syrup.
No doubt the engine could use an oil change, which I'll be doing as soon as I get my paycheck. When I bought the vehicle it needed a quart of oil (which I added) but I've been driving it quite a lot since then and it hasn't been loosing oil. But now I'm worried about these shavings. Has my engine seen better days or is this just normal tear on an engine this old. I'm not sure how many miles are on the vehicle, odometer says it has just slightly over 3000 miles, but its one of these old 5 digit odometers so I have no idea if that's 103000, 203000 or 303000.
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The van started going "clickity pop clickity pop" around corners the other day. I got under to inspect the CV boots and yep the drivers side outer CV boot is ripped all the way round, and the grease has been flung out of it all over the place.
I got a new axle assembly rather than rebuild mine. I am a little bit scared of this repair because it was what killed my audi 5000 turbo I had.
I am assuming i have to take the wheel, brakes, tie rod, off of the spindle. Then drop the lower arm, axle nut? Then the flange bolts on the inner portion of the shaft that mounts to the differential? I don't have the right chilton manual to look at!
On my audi, I never got the torque of the axle nut right and i kept ruining hub bearings. Those are a royal pain to change, and I don't want to do that on this van!
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I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
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Ok, my shift lever is broken where the OD button is located. Not the cap and button, the whole end of the lever has snapped off.
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So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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The rear axle in my dads 1998 ford ranger has been vibrating for quite a while so I pulled the cover today and found that the fluid was full of metal shavings, it was glittering. I also found this metal chunk in the differential so my mechanical experience tells me this is not a good thing. I am taking it apart tomorrow any tips or do's or don't? Also, what this metal chunk is and what that knurled up end is??
Door tag told me it was a 7.5 open 4:10 axle.
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Mine appears to be leaking where the rubber pipe meets the metal coupler. What actually secures the rubber to the metal? I will get a new 1 soon but will be a week or so as I'm all spent after a few other unnecessary car related items.
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2002 Dodge Durango 6.9 R/T... I had my bearings replaced 3 weeks ago. And about 1 week later after 40 mins in stop and go traffic I started smelling this hot metal and rubber smell. Then my breaks got really tight when I pressed the paddle. Is this related to having my bearings replaced, what could be causing this to happen every time I am in the car 40 mins or more. It's happened 4 times now and the first time it started smoking. I'm really nervous to drive my truck in stop and go traffic.
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew with the eco boost. While driving down the highway my rear tire passed me. After crashing I looked at the rear end and the wheel and hub had broken off of axle. Scared the crap out of me. Would this be a warranty issue?
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I have yet another issue with my lovable Aerostar. This one I just noticed today. The heat doesnt work! Not that its very needed here in Florida, but its still an issue. I tried the heat function out multiple times today and even after driving for a good 20 minutes hot air does NOT come out! Only cool air comes out the vents. Well actually, for a few seconds when I turned the heat on it sort of felt "slightly warmish" but a few seconds later it was cool again. I don't know if this could be related but the temperature gauge is stuck at C (Cold) as its been since I purchased the van about a week ago.
I brought the van to my friend who's a mechanic and he looked under the hood and claims there is no thermostat, the previous owner must have removed it. I found this odd since the vehicle has yet to overheat and I know overheating is sure to happen when the thermostat is missing. Need to confirm if these signs are indeed because of either a broken or missing thermostat? If it is, I have yet another problem. I began looking on eBay for a new thermostat and there's all different kinds! Some say "190 degree" some say "180 degree" and some say other things. Here's a link to a "190 degree":
MOTORCRAFT RT-1152 Thermostat
If I do need a new thermostat, what kind do I need? Here's the exact van I have: 1989 Ford Aerostar XLT V6 with 4 speed auto transmission. Oh and just in case this has anything to do with it, the van has A/C but it's not currently working.
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My automatic shift selector was extremely loose. Wasn't the two bolts up behind the dash. Turns out that there is a metal cylinder with a cutaway that seems to have fallen out of the selector housing. One of the edges of this cylinder broke off as you can see in this pic:
What is this piece called and can I get a replacement at autozone/pepboys/ect?
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The little rubber post that holds the gas door closed has broken off. I'm worried that fixing this will require replacing some type of cabling system that connects the release button in the driver's door to the gas door and THAT sounds really expensive. I've got 52K on the car with an extended warranty. Think this might be covered?
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my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
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Yesterday afternoon on my way home I have seen a car driving slowly on 1 flat tire on the side of the road. The driver was about half a mile from the tire store. I do not know for how long he was driving before I saw him. By the way he was driving a Subaru. He might have ended up paying for 4 tires because of the awd?
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I am having a problem with my rental passat, its a 2013 with 860miles and the seat lever that makes the seat recline broke and now the seat wont return to normal sitting position, its laid out almost flat. How to fix this? I am guessing there is a wire in there somewhere that will release it ...
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