Ford Aerostar :: Rear ABS Light Came On Suddenly
Mar 7, 2009
I was driving home tonight, in a thunderstorm in the middle of WINTER, when all of a sudden my Rear ABS light pops on. Me thinks a wire might be needing fixing, but what if it is something more sinister??? Is there a way to pull codes for the Rear ABS light??
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Within the past two weeks my rear abs light would come on every morning on my way to work. also, brake light would follow on and off. I would turn it off and start it back up again and dont happen again until next morning. Drive home from work and nothing happens..
1995' 4.0 E-4 wheel
no brake fluid leaks
fluid level is fine
no pulling codes , my check engine light is burnt out
braking power seems a bit off when the abs light comes on?
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Oil leak started suddenly - losing large amounts - dripping off front differential. Very hard to determine source. Ahead of Sensor Assembly. Drivers side.
Leak is very bad. Quart drains out in 10 minutes - solid stream.
Could it be the timing cover gasket ? Or is that too far back.
Tempted to use bars...
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1999 windstar transmission. Daughter drives van,never had any problems and suddenly no drive or reverse.Put it in gear ,no rpm drop, same for reverse.I put it in park and it will not roll so I don't believe its a linkage issue. Its like it has no torque converter. Fluid is at the full mark,and has no burnt smell . Its been my experience that a trans. Usually starts slipping,or no up shift or makes some noises when its getting ready to puke. She stopped for a stop light, went to take off and it just rev-ed up like it was in neutral.
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I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
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My 1988 Mustang 5.0 GT has stalled out once last year and again recently. Same situation. I drove it for 300 miles with stops about every hour and a half. Pushed to to 90 MPH at times. Ran fine other times on the road for more than two hours. But all of a sudden the engine dies. Electrical all works but won't turn over. If I sit in it for about 10 minutes, it will start and run for the next 5 to 10 minutes than a cough or two and pull over. I have had new plugs put in and also replaced the whole distributor. Ford mechanics have stared at it and scratched their heads and say it is running fine when they hand it back to me.
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Have been the owner of a 96 4.0 AWD for 10 yrs and if they still made this van I would get one in a heartbeat. Been doing a search on how to replace the rear coil springs with no luck... is there special tools or procedures involved?
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I noticed something hanging from the rear suspension / passenger side, and took a look.
two pieces of some rubber / neoprene-looking stuff were hanging, it seems they are part of some rubber spring "isolator" at the top of the spring??
is this "isolator" a replaceable part? I've been hearing a noise at the rear and now I know where it is coming from. Here's a picture of what fell off:
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My neighbor and son took it upon themselves to get the rear latch to catch... well they have done that..... .and then some. I have got the interior panel removed and the what i will call the latch plate assembly out of the way... I can see one Phillips head screw down in the hole ... but can get nothing to move ... this thing is rock solid on the latch bolt.... what can i do?
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I have an '86 Aerostar with a noisy rear end. I've had it checked by both my mechanic, and a transmission shop, and they both say it's the differential, not the wheel bearings. The quote to rebuild is expensive, so I'm looking for a replacement. My question is: What years will interchange with my 2.3, 5-speed '86 Aerostar?
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I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
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Mine is all busted up. All I can find are covers for shorties.
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I recently changed the plugs on my 95 Aerostar 4.0L. I noticed the last service person did not replace with proper plugs. The van was missing occasionally.
The passenger side rear plug was rusty. I noticed a small loss of anti-freeze during the past year also. Could this be a lower intake gasket? Have not noticed any anti-freeze in the oil nor any exterior engine leaks.
I recently drove it for 150 miles. Sometimes after start it would miss, other times not. Looking for the type of diagnostic to be done.
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My wife and I were rear ended over a year ago. Although the damage was mainly cosmetic to the bumper covering, it did cause a slight bend in the frame enough to prevent the rear door from opening. How to get this straightened enough to at least get the door to open and close.
My thoughts, the bend is not that severe it turns out, but I was thinking a torch at the point where the frame is bent and leverage pulling up on the bumper at each side.
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I just bought a 94 Anniversary Edition that came with an aftermarket remote start. I upgraded the module so I could get better range and would like to connect the rear window defrost to it. I have the trunk release feature on the module and since it isn't in use figured I could use that function for the defrost. The module has a negative output. What wire in the defrost switch would I connect to and would I need a relay to convert the negative pulse to positive? The winters here get extremely cold.
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97 aerostar rear ac stopped working. Blower runs fine. Checked solenoid has power and clicks when plug pulled and refitted.
Liquid line is hot to solenoid and somewhat warm after the solenoid. Return line from evap is at room temp.
Front is 40f at register. Am I looking at bad solenoid or blocked orifice tube. Solenoid is nla. Orifice not so. Still on original evaps comp etc.
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Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
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My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
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I have a '95 Aerostar where the two lights are always on. I'd like to pull the codes if i can. Does this year has the RABS or the RABS II module. Or is the diagnostic connector the same?
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78,000 miles on odometer. The van starts and runs great. Always has. No change in performance since check engine light went on. Took it to local parts store here in California. They used to run codes here but can't any longer for the usual reasons. I replaced the EGR valve because I knew it was due and disconnected the battery and started the van. Light was off. Drove it a few times and it came back on again. Still runs fine though. I heard the Aerostar may kick a code off simply because it's due for a plug change. I think the plugs are original so I'm going to replace them. Plug wires too.
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Here's the problem with my 1994 Ford Aerostar 3.0 engine. As many have mentioned here, I'm getting the 5 chimes syndrome, indicating an issue with the airbag system. My specifics are:
The Airbag light does NOT light, even when the key is first turned on. You would think the light might be burned out, but I removed the instrument cluster and tested EVERY bulb. After hooking the instrument cluster back up, the light still wouldn't light, but I still get the 5 beeps.
The horn works (haven't tested the cruise control).
I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting. I have the basic Chilton manual, but it's not troubleshooting the SRS. I understand the cautions when working on the SRS system, but would like to troubleshoot it myself. Unfortunately, I got laid off, and I can't afford to go to the Ford Shop.
1994 Aerostar XL w/3.0 engine, 144K miiles
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