Ford Aerostar :: Power To The Van Just Quits - Engine Not Turning Over To Start Up
Nov 16, 2015
All of a sudden all the power to the van just quits when I try to start it. I put a load test on the battery and it seems fine. I've still got power at the battery terminals when everything is dead - no dome light or anything else.
We went out for lunch and had to get a jump to get back home. The battery was turning the engine just fine before this sudden event. What would kill all the power to everything every time I try to start it? After some time goes by, the dome lights and chime come back but I can no longer turn the engine over to start it up.
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I've got a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT. Was running great until yesterday, when I turned the ignition and got nothing but a click every time the key was turned. Checked the battery (had power), bridged the relay (just got clicks but didn't turn over)....so I concluded the starter was bad.
I installed a new starter motor/starter Selinoid today. The van started right up, but next start the engine kept cranking (even while van was running and after shutting off)...I had to disconnect the battery cable for it to stop. Next start the problem didn't persist...but the time after that it happened again.
Any thoughts as to what is going on, or where to start in tackling this problem?
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My engine suddenly stops while driving. There is no warning or loss of power, it just stops randomly after running fine for a while. After some time (might be minutes or hours) the engine turns on and runs fine.
I have no clue what it might be, I believe it might be an electrical problem affecting the diesel pump. The pump has a pair of cables coming in to a white plug at the pump's back, I disconnected them but the engine still runs.
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Have a 91 Aerostar that won't start. Has fuel pressure, pulse to fuel injectors, strong spark, strong compression, etc.
Thinking that the spark may be coming at the wrong time I tried a spare ignition module that I keep. No luck. Since my distributor had a lifetime warranty I got another one, again, thinking spark was coming at wrong time. Nothing. Engine won't even pop.
I am going to drop the front pipe in the unlikely even that the new converter is plugged or, somewhat more likely, the muffler, but I am leaning toward a computer at this point.. Still don't understand since it is getting spark and gas why engine won't even pop.
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The problem started with me leaving the parking lights on, battery was discharged overnight; jump started it, drove it around to charge the battery, ran fine for two days. Now when I switch Ignition Switch to start I hear a sort of mechanical "clack" and I lose all electrical power, nothing, nada. Removed and took the battery to check it and charge it, tested good and is now fully charged.
Reinstalled battery, same symptom, a "clack" when I try to start it, then dead, all electrical power disappears unless I rock the steering wheel up and down, rock the shifter through the gears, etc. It's been raining in Florida daily, I wonder if water is to blame. Start Lock Relay?? Ignition Switch??
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First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
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My 2002 Windstar SEL has been giving me a fit and I`m not getting any codes as to why. Here`s the 2 main issues. Clicking when i go to start up in a.m. if it`s below 50 degrees. ( Battery has been checked and all is o.k. or so I was informed). As long as it`s warm it starts fine every time. Also,it seems like the least bit of wet on the underside will cause it to spit and sputter and the check engine light will start blinking until it sits and dries for a while. (A very shallow puddle less than 6 inches deep at low speed or even the automatic car wash that sprays the undercarriage).
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My Aerostar lately has been doing some weird things when going around corners. Whenever I'm going around a corner and I give the wheel a good turn the whole front end and the steering wheel start to shudder hard, and it sounds like the engine is being slightly bogged down. As soon as I finish though and straighten out it goes away immediately. Could this be the serpentine belt or the PS?
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I've got a 1993 ford aerostar. Today, my steering wheel started shaking/rattling when I turn the steering wheel. Seems to be more obvious when turning right rather than left, and is only obvious at low speeds.
Only thing out of usual was that the front had been on jacks for a few days for an unrelated (starter) repair. What to check or how to isolate? I imagine it has to do with the power steering but not sure what to check.
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I've got a 95 Aero 4.0 awd. I've just replaced the power steering pump with a cardone. Wished I didn't cause of the noise but afterwards the steering feels like it's in a bind when turning to the left. It may have been doing it before, the cv axles were shot when i bought her. I'm suspecting the rack is going bad. How hard is it to replace it on the awd?
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I just recently bought a 96 XLT 4WD Aerostar. It's got about 158,000 miles on it. It's got a few problems I wanted to ask about.
1. When I'm on the highway, once I reach about 82 or 83mph the transmission seems to slip into neutral. Does fine around the city and every other speed on the highway but once I pass 82mph it slips and revs really high. Could it be the torque converter?
2. Clicking while turning sharp and reversing while turning. I figure it probably needs new cv joints?
3. The gas mileage seems terrible. I still have my Ford Econoline 250 and that seems to be getting better gas mileage. What might cause the mpg to be as bad as 12mpg on the highway?
4. The speedometer goes nuts after about 40mph. Is that an easy fix?
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The engine on our Ford Expedition (2003) has started quitting for no reason. The engine light does not come on. We might be driving and it just stops or stopped at a light or turning into the driveway and it just turns off. Often it we simply turn it back on and it is fine but occasionally it is difficult to restart.
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I have a problem with my 1997 aerostar. There is a squeaking noise that gets more significant when I turn. I am pretty sure this is the drive belt as the power steering fluid is fine. Should I attempt to replace the belt tensioner and if so is it just the pulley that needs replacing or the whole tensioner. I am by no means a mechanic but can figure most things out.
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I had a concern especially when cold outside. Ocassionally the door ajar light illuminates when going over bumps or turning, more like flashes and the module/ relay buzzes. No chime goes off so I don't think the drivers door is the culprit. I do know that going on the interstate it sounds like a wind tunnel and even with the slider closed i can see the outside at the top closest to the rear side window(non sliding window behind sliding door). Its been irritating and we want to fix it right not hack meaning not just unpluging things just to squeak by...
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I just replaced computer brain and finally it works and 6 miles later same symptoms again. Its unreliable, will start wont drive, drive and quit and wont start. I replaced : cps emc ecm coil packs sparkplug wires sparkplugs pvc valve inline fuel filter
I have tried anything someone says.....like loose or bad gas cap can let water in your fuel. if thats true or not I put heat in to dry up any water problem put premium fuel in my truck. Changed the oil ever 3 thousand miles. Its my work truck never took it out in the woods and abused it never raced any cars with it. Just babied it and tried to get as much mileage out of her as possible.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with strange symptoms. It will start cold and when you drive it for a while, then turn it off, it will start again right away. If you leave it for an hour you will get a "crank no start". Leave it till the engine cools down completely and it will start again.
The other day it wouldn't start cold, but after I had it towed in to a mechanic, he turned the key and it started right away. I left it with him for 3 days and he could not get it to "not start". So I picked it up and drove it for an hour, parked it and left it for an hour came back and had a "crank no start" till it was cold again. I love my truck but it doesn't seem to like me.
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I have a '97 Hyundai Elantra (That has been turned in to a Dirt Race Car) anyway the car will idol for an hour fine. When we take it on the track it will run 4 or 5 laps fine then we take it in the pits shut it off for an hour and then go back on the track and on the 2nd lap it will quit and will not start it will crank but their in no spark also the dash lights no longer work. After the cars sits for a couple hours it will start back up and idol fine. We have replaced the ECU/ECM relay as we thought that was the problem but the symptoms remain the same. We have checked fuses and don't seem to find a problem our next step is to replace the ECM....
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I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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All the sudden AC will stop blowing cold and engine temp will start rising but radiator doesn't seem to heat up. Will correct itself after about 10 minutes. 3.3L 130,000 miles
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Car started fine but stalled on first brake application with the skid-control light illuminated, restarted fine but stalled again on next brake application (skid-control light stayed on). Decided to head for the dealer which was only a few blocks away, drove there knowing that it may stall when brakes were applied (engine would start, idle and operate when driving but the problem would only occur on brake application.... approx when the transmission would down shift to third or second gear). My last stop before turning into the dealer's parking lot, the engine quit and refused to restart.... finally came back to life after about 5mins and was able to complete my somewhat dangerous trip (whole journey was on very quiet back streets). At first I thought it could be related to the infamous brake switch but the service rep informed me that they couldn't communicate with any control module with the scan tool. Now I sit and wait, hopefully they will call with some good news soon.
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2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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