Ford Aerostar :: Oil Pressure Dropped To Zero When Came To A Stop In A Rest Area
Jul 7, 2011
I have a 96 aerostar with just over 100,000 miles. Recently, after driving about an hour at highway speeds I noticed the oil pressure dropped to zero when I came to a stop in a rest area. I immediately shut the van off and checked the oil, which was full.
After restarting the engine, the oil pressure gauge read normal again so I proceeded on my way down the road keeping a close eye on the gauge. Within minutes the gauge started fluctuating from zero to normal several times and then dropped to zero and stayed there. It sounded like I was getting some top end clacking (may have been my imagination) so I shut off the engine while driving and restarted it and the pressure gauge started reading normal again.
I drove to the next exit and figured it must be the sending unit acting up, so I checked the wiring at the unit for a possible loose connection and finished my 150 mile trip with no further issues with the oil pressure gauge. I have run the van locally on short trips but I am afraid of making any long distance runs without knowing for sure if it was the sending unit or perhaps another more serious problem.
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As stated in the title, I've been experiencing a creaking/groaning noise originating from the dead pedal/foot-rest area when I release the clutch as I'm accelerating from first gear. This happens more so when I'm accelerating from a stop on any sort of incline (irrespective of the grade) and primarily in the afternoon/early evening when the weather's at its warmest for the day.
The noise itself originated about a month ago. Although I describe it as a creaking/groaning it sometimes sounds like a slight metal on metal friction noise.
My car's stock with the exception of Driver Gear springs and a BSH 27mm sway bar in the rear. Wheels are OEM 16s. I've had the DG springs on my car for about 3 months before this noise began and mileage was around 9,900Km.
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My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
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I recently installed a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. All seems good.
@ idle 58-60 psi
@ WOT drops to 50 psi, no less.
Tonight I went to catch up to a car that had no lights on at all to tell them and during WOT fuel pressure gauge showed it dropped to less than 30! I let off immediately and it went right back up. I tried to repeat it with another go @ WOT and it would not go under 50 psi like normal.
Motorcraft fuel filters less than 3000 miles ago .. Blue spring installed over the winter.
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So I went to start my truck this am. Fired up fine. Put it in drive and the check advance track light came on, 2 minutes later the oil pressure dropped to zero and truck quit at the same time. Checked oil and it was good, repeated same process 3 times. I just let it idle for ten minutes then it was fine.
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Ok. So. 2005 excursion v10 270k miles. Never ever had an issue starting. Today it was about 30 degrees in Detroit. Had to crank for about 4 seconds. Usually it turns over within one second of cranking. So I get to work and hook up a fuel pressure tester to it. Got to 35psi while running, upon shutting off it dropped to 0 within 30 seconds. I have no codes. And absolutely no drive ability issues. No gas smell. And I'm really hoping its just z fuel pump check valve cause then I can just prime it by doing key on key off then crank...also hoping not injector cause I won't be able to pull the injectors till Sunday snd I really don't wanna hydro lock my motor >.< best way to test injector/fuel pump valve? I like to fix issues as soon as they pop up. Wanna get my v10 to 400k.
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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I'm not real sure what just happened this morning but my '95 Areostar stopped moving. While in gear there is a loud noise from trans area and the axles are no longer connected to the transmission. I think the trouble is in the electronic AWD portion. I thought at first the driveshaft fell off it was that loud. Where do I start tearing into it?
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2002 7.3 powerstroke, no info about service or work done, looks to have a new hpop, know for sure that there was a new lpop installed, claims no gouging in front cover, died going down road oil pressure gauge on dash dropped and was taken to a shop and did not get complete diagnosis, where should i start? Shop drained oil to take sample and no metal shavings or flakes were present according to them...
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My fuel pressure is at 24 engine of and 29 engine running. Is this a bad fuel pump? I was told that it is supposed to be between 40-45 PSI. Is this correct?
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On my 1997 XLT 4.0 the Oil Pressure Gauge (yes, I know it is not a real pressure gauge) started fluctuating down and up rapidly. Revving the engine does not seem to affect it. Oddly, it does not do it for the first few seconds after startup, until the idle stabilizes and lowers.
I checked the connection on the wire to the sending sensor, it looks clean.
Main concern - is this just the sending unit failing, or is it the Oil Pump? Do I need a mechanic to test the actual oil pressure?
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I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4WD 95K miles that had an incident in 2008 where the oil pressure dropped to zero while driving down the highway. I immediately pulled over and had the vehicle towed to a dealership. They pulled the oil pan off and let me know the lower part of the motor was "toast." (crankshaft had turned blue due to heat from no oil.) Mysteriously it has oil pressure now, why that is. It started last time I tried about 4 years ago.
I dearly loved this vehicle. It was first car I bought and paid for myself and I planned on repairing it one day. It's been sitting in My garage for the last 8 years. Recently, my daily driver died and I was faced with repairing the Blazer or buying a new vehicle. Since I don't know how well the Blazer has fared sitting in the garage all these years, I decided repair wasn't worth it at this time for a vehicle I needed to be dependable and I just bought a new vehicle.
So here's the thing. I kept the Blazer really clean. Washed it all the time, no damage, Regular oil changes, the works. It still smells like a new car inside. I really don't want to see it get crushed and I'd like to see it go to a good home. It might need more work than a new motor since it's been sitting so long, but I can't imagine it would be more than someone mechanically inclined could handle. I'd get a new engine, but I don't have the cash and I need the garage space.
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Coming to a stop, clutch pedal just lost all pressure. I can bring it back up, but even the slightest touch will send it to the floor again. I get the brake warning light on the dash. What could be causing this?
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Lately, when slowing down to a stop, or very slow speeds, the intake ducts make a very loud moan. It sounds like a muted horn really. Sometimes, I can put it in park, and it'll be making the noise. Open the hood, and it feels like it is coming from the plastic intake tube. When it does this, the motor likely stalls out, and needs to be restarted.
Another issue, we cruise with it at roughly 100 kph. It works good, that 4.0 has gobs of power, but when cruising, sometimes it will very randomly work bad, just have a misfire hissy fit! It doesn't affect the cruising, but it just works funny.
Its a 1997 Ford Aerostar with the 4.0 OHV, and the E- 4wd with the Dana TC28 transfer case.
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I have an '04 EX Limited 6.0L. This past January while driving in CO from TX the truck overheated while driving stop and go in a small area looking for a particular store. The fan kicked in as it should have and it cooled some, but I begin to notice during the trip that anytime I was sitting still it would overheat. I had front and rear AC controls on heat as it was very cold. When driving normal speeds engine temps would cool down. The Heater would begin to blow cold air as the temp would rise when sitting still or barely moving. Got home and found radiator a little low of fluid and filled to just below the modified full line.
Fast forward 5 months. I've had no problems at all since until about 2 weeks ago I noticed the smell of antifreeze every time I would exit the truck. The degas bottle still looked full if you checked it cold or once you depressurized the system. No signs of puking. This past Friday after driving home from about an hour away I had to stop at a particularly long stop light and the AC began to blow hot air. I checked my temps(scanguageII) and it was getting hotter the longer I sat. Checked degas bottle when I got home no problems. I've been trying to get it to do this again but no luck. Suspected that it may be the heater core for the rear AC, but turning it on in any temp hasn't duplicated results.
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1995 RAM 2500 5.9L 2x4...
I think the wire to my oil pressure gauge might be shorting or loose, since the needle sometimes swings from 0 to the middle unexpectedly for no apparent reason. However, during my recent 350 mile trip back from FL to North GA, I noticed that while "stable", the pressure seemed to be ever so slowly dropping to the 1/4 area of the meter. I checked the oil level at every stop and it was never more than 1/2 quart from full. It did seem somewhat "black" given that I changed it and filter about 1,200 miles ago. Also, it seemed the oil was somewhat "channeling" on the dipstick... hard to explain, but it wasn't 100% coating the dipstick like I'd normally expect and seemed like wouldn't "stick" to it. Anyway, there wasn't any foaminess that would seem to indicate water in it... and I've never used any oil additives.
What can cause reduction in oil pressure? After sitting, it seems normal for a while after start-up but then tends to drop. It is possible there is some kind of "sludge" clogging something? The tranny repair guy told me that some oils contain unacceptable amounts of paraffin (a WAX)... told me to never use Quaker State and that he recommended Valvoline. He was "amused" when I told him I use the Walmart brand... Tech or something in the blue bottle. Of course, I'll change the oil THIS week... is that likely to resolve any problems? What else can cause loss of oil pressure? From what I can tell the engine seals are OK since there are never any "puddles" underneath.
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I have a 2002 f150 with about 165,XXX miles on it. drove to work one morning and got out and locked the truck and the horn went off and wouldn't stop. after a few minutes of pushing the horn button down and applying pressure it finally stopped. well this went on for few days, and then it stopped so i figured it was done. Well few days ago i tried to push the horn down at another driver and it wouldn't work. then i realized that my controls on my steering wheel did not work either.
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For the last couple of days I have noticed that I have water dripping from the engine area of my after I park or stop. The dripping appears to stop after some duration (usually don't wait to how long it persists) but I don't recall seeing this the earlier in my ownership (first 12 months of owning 2010 Prius). It clearly appears to be water as it has no color or scent and when it dries, it leaves nothing behind. The only change that comes to mind is that I have been using the front defroster which I did not use before. It is not due to using the air conditioning, as I don't use it during the AC during the winter months at all.
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I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
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My wife has gotten this message twice in our 2013 Passat, 2.5L SE. Not sure the exact wording of the message, but something to the effect of "Stop engine low oil pressure". The first was about a couple months ago and then again this morning. Both times it was on for about a minute or less and then went off. Obviously, it is a serious issue if real. Both were cold mornings, it being winter and all. We've driven plenty of miles in between and no message and I've never seen it personally.
Oil level is good and we're probably only about 4000 miles since last oil change. Its just weird that the message goes away quickly and was about two months apart.
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I decided to change my Phaeton (2006 3.0 tdi) oil myself. All done as in the workshop manual with no trouble.
However, a couple of miles down the road "Stop Engine - Low Oil pressure" appeared in red. I checked the oil level, which was perfect, so called out my local VW garage. They took it for an hour, then told me they didn't know what the problem was, said that oil was getting to the top of the engine no problem, and that the car was fine to drive. They recommended I see another dealer about 30 miles away, and they had no problem me driving there. Oh, and they charged me for an hour labour.
When I got home I checked the oil I used (bought from a motor factor in the UK using my vin number) - it was Miller long life 5-30, with VW code 504.00. I've just looked that up, and it says that 504.00 is for petrol engines, and 507.00 is what Diesel engines need.
So, it seems I have the wrong oil. But would 5-30 504.00 cause low oil pressure that 5-30 507.00 would fix? If so, what damage could I have done driving 20 odd miles with the wrong oil?
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