I have been having to add 1-2 quarts of oil every 2-3 days. I have noticed the back of the engine wet, but have seen no visible leaks unless the engine runs then it drips. Does it sound like a valve cover gasket problem or a rear main seal?
View 5 RepliesI replaced the water pump on my 3.0 and now, 9 months later, there is a coolant leak from the front engine cover (timing chain cover). The leak has probably been there two months or so, but it was so small initially, it was difficult to locate. A google search seems to indicate that a leak from the timing cover is somewhat common on the 3.0.
When I was doing the job, I noticed that some of the water pump bolts also hold the front cover in place, which seems like a bad design because removing those bolts takes some of the compression off of the timing cover gasket. Now that I have this leak, I'm wondering if changing the water pump is related to the leak. And, yes, I did use thread sealant on the bolts as recommended in the genuine Ford shop manual.
So now, I'm curious. Noticed a leak from the timing cover relatively soon after replacing the water pump on 3.0?
1995 3.0L 6 Cylinder Aero, aka the Green Goblin.
I've recently noticed that when I'm running between 50-65MPH the GG can't seem to decide whether it wants to stay in D or OD, I think. It's hard to tell whether or not the transmission is shifting or if it's just the engine revving. I don't have a tachometer but it's almost like the engine is revving /surges and then falls back, sometimes repeatedly. Could this be due to a vac line leak?
History- GG has 167K on it. I recently changed the oil, plugs, wires, distributor and air filter. Cleaned the MAF. Due to a failed AC compressor and low funds, had it removed and a bypass pulley installed. Needs a new pipe & muffler which is on the agenda.
I have an 04 Excursion with a 6.0PSD. I am currently experiencing a coolant leak, not very bad at the moment but I would like to fix it. The coolant is running down the back right side of the engine and I can see coolant pooling on the pan on top of the motor, specifically the right side. I can see some moisture on the front of the engine but it is below the top of the engine and I do not think this would be the cause since coolant won't flow up hill. I can't see or smell any coolant flowing when the engine is running but see it at idle and when parked.
View 5 RepliesJust did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
View 1 RepliesKind of bummed my truck now leaks oil from both the front and back. It's not much volume wise - probably a pint every couple months but before I came up to Alaska it had never leaked a drop. Probably nothing I can do about it barring a rebuild. I have noticed all the guys say not to use any oil additives of any kind. Trying to get it in a shape for another epic journey back down the Alcan highway this fall. Or should I get rid of it and go for a 6.7.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 V10 F350 6.8L that I recently purchased at auction and am fixing up. I've made good progress already and replaced many of the suspension components so that the tuck drives straight. It does however have an oil leak that seems to manifest of heavy acceleration.
I'm not sure exactly where from as I have not crawled under the car, but I can see a drip land right on the Y pipe coming out the exhaust manifolds. There is enough of a drip to create quite a smoke storm under the hood. Any common areas to look for?
I recently purchased my 2011 F250 Powerstroke a week ago today with 87000 miles on it. the dealer assured me they did all the maintenance on the truck before i was able to drive it home. I noticed on my dash that it kept popping up i needed to change oil soon.. so i got out to investigate and realized i was about a quart low on oil so i looked around more and am seeing that i have a leak coming from the back of the engine running down to the oil pan.. I have not noticed any on on the ground at all but what this leak is coming from...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford F2 50 that has a diesel leak on the back of the engine. I've already replaced the drain valve that was leaking. Then I noticed that the front of the engine was dry now but the back of the engine still has some pooling With a very small drip off the back of the engine between the transmission housing and engine. Not as bad as it was of course But still a small drip. Where this may be coming from? And how to fix it?
View 4 RepliesI recently came home to a shattered back window on the lift gate. We were gone on vacation for a week and I didn't notice it for a couple days after we were back. The van was backed up to my second garage door. Not really sure how it happened. Nothing was taken from the van and I live in a pretty decent neighborhood, so I don't think it was vandals. Only thing I can contribute it too is the heat (it had gotten pretty hot in WI while we were gone).
So I'm in the process of replacing it. After a pretty good search I was able to obtain a used window from a junk yard. The glass is in good shape but it is missing 3 of the 'studs' that are imbedded in the rubber molding. I have the 3M Window Weld butyl 'tape' (3/8") to seal/adhere it to the fiberglass. Will the remaining studs plus the tape be enough to permanently keep the window in place?
If not, I can salvage the studs from the old molding but then I have to figure out how to glue it to the new window. I'm not sure what I can use to do this. I've considered JB Weld, Epoxy, super glue or something like rubber cement. It looks like the old studs were ripped straight out leaving kind of a void in the hard rubber molding. The bottom of the void is I believe rubber (not glass).
I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.
Finally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
Well I've got an nice steady leak coming from the front of the pan.... running aft of course (downhill, windflow). She's down right now for an AC overhaul and new PS pump/hoses, but I'm inspecting to see what is next to get this stinking oil leakage stopped.
Front HB removal and seal of course, done in situ (in position). But if it is actually the oil pan/seal, can that be done there also? Front of the pan looks tight to the crossmember, and how the internals look (tray baffles, pump pickup) I've no clue if it will come off. Once she is back up and running I'll ascertain where this leak originates.
Interweb searches show the 90-94 4.0L engine is notorious for pan gasket leaks. None of the writeups I've found thus far determine if that pan can be pulled where she sits.
I have a 1990 Aerostar that has leaked gas 3 or 4 times. I am not sure where it is coming from exactly but it seems to be towards the back of the engine, kind of near the torque converter. This leak happened 2 days ago when i was warming the van up and it was cool outside. The time before that, it was after driving for a while. The day before yesterday I drove it probably 50 miles with no problems and it was about 85-90 degrees outside. I drove it today and there was no leak and today is a cooler day.
View 14 RepliesIt would appear as though my steering leak on my 1991 Aerostar is coming from the seal, where the steering shaft enters the steering box. I'm trying the Lucas treatment but it doesn't appear to be working. Can this seal be replaced WITHOUT replacing the entire steering box?
View 6 Replies1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
I recently did the repair on my wife's 06 Scion TC for head gasket
I notice there is a slight oil leak.what appears to be oil at least on the back side of the engine but it's right at/above the power steering pump. When I was putting the car back together I used ultra grey instead of the gasket. This is the only area that can leak and I've check the solenoid above the tensioned.
Do you have to use the gasket or ultra ok? I thought that it was power steering pump but it's coming from a area what appears to be higher. Haven't notice a lost of power steering fluid either. Wife said she notices loss in oil. Front/sides are dry as the desert.
1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?
Oil leak started suddenly - losing large amounts - dripping off front differential. Very hard to determine source. Ahead of Sensor Assembly. Drivers side.
Leak is very bad. Quart drains out in 10 minutes - solid stream.
Could it be the timing cover gasket ? Or is that too far back.
Tempted to use bars...
I have a small oil leak on the car. I took it today to Lexus to get them do a quick check and it's coming from the back of the engine near the top on the right side. What gaskets are in that area?
The car has already had the crank seal and timing cover gaskets replaced at 31,000km.
The car has 60,000km on it now. Also, any common problems with the ES350 to do with oil leaks?
I have just replaced my vacuum lines after find a hole in the hose going the the vacuum reservoir. I have also recently replace the pcv hose. This seems to have created increased vacuum pressure and I am now hearing a hissing coming from the back center part of the engine.
Pulling codes P1411, P1423, P1138
Regarding photo - The area the hissing appears to come from is located in the rectangle area, more or less.
2.8 atq B5 Variant