Ford Aerostar :: Lower Panels Rusty?
May 3, 2006
BTW, most also have the same problem mine has, rust cancer of the lower panels! One shorty I saw, the lower panels were not even there anymore! Just jagged, rusty metal that started 1/3 of the way up the body of the van!!
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Im new to the forum and have a 96 extended aerostar. My question ia has any one made custom front interior door panels. Mine are badly broken up and I feel beyond repair.
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On my ongoing project, I have a replacement trans out of an Explorer. I have swapped over the bracket and will be changing the shifter shaft, but I noticed that the new trans has what appears to be some sort of vibration damper mounted to the lower side of the tail shaft with 3 bolts.
It is just a bracket that has a cast weight mounted in rubber. It was not a mount of any kind as the only bolt connection is to the trans itself.
The trans I took out did not have one of these, nor can I find any mention of it in the factory manual. The Explorer I pulled the trans from was a 92, my Aerostar is a 91. It doesn't appear that this device will conflict with mounting.
It is possible that the whoever installed the trans that I have removed forgot to install the damper, or it is possible that it is used only on the Explorer but not on the Aerostar.
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99 F-150 4x4. Any tips to get these rusty things separated from their homes? I've got the torsion keys unloaded and loose and the cross member loose. They will not budge. Aside from getting a bigger hammer and abusing the cross member till something gives. I don't like using the torch on heat treated components....
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269k on a 04 6.0, in the rust belt, oil pan is needing replaced according to the tech. It looks rusty for sure. 1300+ to change it. I understand you have to lift the engine some to replace. Engine is stock, are there any aftermarket pan's worth looking at if I'm going to replace it?
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I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
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Why can't ford use stailess steel sheet mental screws on the floor trim pice where door meets car. My 2010 Ranger the screws on taht trim piece have rusted already and I have drill them out and replaced them. In order to clean under the floor matting or remove trim piece. .
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Ok, so I have a brand new 2011 F150 SCrew EB direct from the factory. It's about a week or so old and I have almost 700 miles on it. It is garaged all the time while at home...
So I was looking under the front end just checking things out...getting to "know" my new truck (which by the way I love) and everything looks new and great underneath...nice new painted surfaces...metal etc until I see...the knuckles behind each of the front wheels are starting to rust. I'm assuming these are cast iron but why would they not paint these?!
I mean, everything else is painted and looks great but then you see the rusting knuckles underneath?? AM I missing something here...is this normal? For all of you who own the same truck, have you seen the same thing?
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I have a 1999 F150 2wd. I was changing the oil on the weekend, and noticed a small hole/crack in the front crossmember that the control arms bolt to. This being a integral part of the suspension, I need to fix it. Its just the bottom part of the crossmember, it rusted from the inside out. The rest of the truck and frame is in great shape, so I am not junking it.
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Is it okay to use an angle grinder to remove rust from steel wheels? Is it generally considered better to use a wire brush / wheel / cup on a drill? Pros and Cons?
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my rear bumper is pretty much eaten up, too.
How difficult is this to replace?
Good source for rear bumpers? Just something stock; don't need anything wild, crazy, lighted, etc.
It's a work/hunting/fishing/hauling truck. That's all.
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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So I bought a set of 05 towing mirrors today, got them installed and need to get the door panels off so I can disconnect the wire clip. I figured I would swap out the speakers while in there too so I assume 6X9? Also when I click the keyless entry button on the remote it unlocks all the doors but the driver door. The lock moves a little so I know it's getting a little tug but I still have to use the key to open it. What can I do to fix this?
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I have considerable rust on both sides at the rocker panels. Both running boards are precariously perched and won't last long (don't really care about that; I'll do without).
In my search for replacement panels, I'm only able to find ones for "crew cab super duty," not specifically the Excursion. Wouldn't they be identical? Identical enough?
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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hey haven't been on this forum since I had my 1995 f150 (miss that strait sixer). Here is my question I bought a 2001 ford f150 supercrew with rusted rocker panels a year ago now there gone I have some tube steps attached wondering what the panel is that they attach to cause that seems pretty rusty as well and wondering if there is anyway of replacing it and if so where can I find it? I found all kinds of the outer rocker but not that inner rocker? if that is what you call it.
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I'm wanting to update my door panels to the 2008 or 2011. I know I can change out the center console but I'm not sure what years work. The bottoms of my doors are rusted out and I believe it makes more sense to buy the doors than repair them. I would love to know if the newer model SD's are the same design as the pre-2008s.
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I'm getting ready to do some welding on the rocker panels on my 2001 f150 supercrew. Just making sure I just have to disconnect ground at battery. Never had a problem before but my neighbor blew both his airbags attempting it on his chevy. He said he had battery disconnected, wasn't specific as to which cable, and was grounding off the door strike which could have something to do with the airbags deploying? I've done it on a 02 chevy with no problems
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I thought this might be a little difficult but it wasn't at all. Simplest door panel that I've ever pulled off.
first remove the panel that goes around the door handle, gently pry it up in the front where the speaker grill meets the panel, use a couple of flat head screw drivers for this. It will pop up once the tabs are released, then you can remove it.
Then remove the window/lock control panel, the front of this will need to be gently pulled up and then you can remove it by sliding it forward. Don't pry up on the rear or you can break the tab off. Unplug the three wire connectors/plugs. A small flat head will work with this.
Remove one 7mm screw behind the panel that you just removed, then remove the two 7mm screws on the very bottom of the door panel.
Now simply lift the door panel straight up and then outward, remove the last wire connector for the power mirrors & it's off.
I also replaced the outside door handle & lock assembly. It was very easy as well. just a 12mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet & small flat head screw driver.
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I just noticed my excursion is rusting at the bottom of all 4 door panels With the rubber seals you wouldn't notice it unless you look for it. I was thinking of using pro-15 metal prep before the por-15, how did it work?
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